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A different full/half canvas, fused/sewn question: When does it matter most?


Senior Member
Mar 14, 2017
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I wouldn't let issues about quality get in the way of your judgments. Just see if the garment looks and feels good on you. Ultimately that's the only test that matters
Thanks for your replies. I don't own it yet, so I can't do the pinch test. But the specs are what I'm looking for, so I might go for it.

Regarding the lining, I should have looked more closely at my own wardrobe before posting. As it turns out, both my BBGF jacket and Hickey Freeman blazer feature the same, uniform, machine-stitched lining, though both are undoubtably fully-canvassed. It's likely indicative of the factory process. I only find the piece-by-piece lining over the canvassing in my Italian jackets (d"Avenza, Castangia, Zegna, etc).

Presuming both this Flusser suit and my BBGF jacket were made by Martin Greenfield (not absolutely certain about the BBGF, but I know he's made for them in the past, and it says "made in America"), they are likely similar in construction, and thus fully-canvassed. I'll just have to go with these odds and take a chance!
Thanks again.


Apr 5, 2019
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Everyone looks good in mid gray flannel. Everyone.

Flannel tends to wear out faster than most other cloths. A 10oz flannel will not have the longevity of an 18 oz flannel. If you want something for winter, get a true winter cloth. I have several 18-20oz. flannels and they wear wonderfully up to 40 degrees F, unless you are in southern California. Although @Andy57 has several heavy weight flannels who I believe is in the Bay area and wears them wonderfully.

Don't get caught up too much in the weights. The weave and quality of the wool is more important.

As for the Fresco, its a toss up, but by design is a hard wearing high twist open weave and can wear cooler in 10-12oz. than a tropical in 6-7oz. Not a fast rule however.

Fully convinced (except for grey flannel on me - though I'm willing to try something like that on in a shop and see how it looks). Otherwise, I agree that 18-20oz flannel would be great for winter. Originally, I was looking for something more like that - just didn't see any that had both the feel and kind of pattern I was looking for.

And I understand that the Fresco will be cooler than its weight suggests. But for my next 4-season suit, I'd prefer something that's a bit warmer than my summer suits when I'm sitting in a heated office, but a lot warmer when I'm outside and the wind is blowing. That means something kind of the oppositie of Fresco - something that does not have an open weave.

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