A determining size question.

[Deep30hz]

Hi. I've done a search and have gotten plenty of info. I just wanted to hear a little bit more so I'm posting this. I hope you guys don't mind. Please be patient lol. I may even be answering my own question by writing this post.

I've been searching Ebay for some deals and on my very limited budget at the moment am hoping to pick up a couple of decent jackets from the bay if I'm lucky.

I normally wear a size 46R. My chest is 44"-45" and my overarm measurement is 53". Because my overarm size is over 6-7" above my chest size I go up a size. I also have a 32-33" waist. With a 46 the waist of course needs a decent amount of waist suppression. It has been done for the most part pretty well. I've also tried on these jackets in person and did not get them online and untried sight unseen as on Ebay. The shoulder seam to seam measurement on 46's seem to be around 20-21" in many cases depending on the manufacturer. The 20-21" shoulder drapes well at my shoulders and arms. This keeps my deltoids and arms from pushing out beyond the shoulder limits faily well. If I try on some 44's the delts and arms push against the material and looks a bit bad.

Now....my question is....if when searching the 'bay I see a 44R with a shoulder measurement of lets say 20-21" (I have seen some that supposedly do) could it be a safe bet it would drape well in the shoulders or does going with the 46R instead have more to do with it draping well down the shoulders and arms? I ask this because I would think a 44R would require less alteration and look a bit more fitted without major surgery. Any thoughts?

I also know that some of these Ebay sellers do not measure correctly and I may not bank on them being accurate.

Back in the big '80's most of my suits and jackets were bespoke. My life is much different now and though I'd love to be able to go that route again it would be near impossible at this moment in time.

Any info from you guy's would be appreciated. I've been out of the loop so to speak for some time.
Thanks.

 

[Nicola]

Instead of going up in size try looking for brands cut with more normal shoulders.

You'll see threads with people whining about jackets/brands with big shoulders. They aren't big it's the wearer that doesn't fit the design.

Finally see if you can find any online suit sizing charts. 46 is a dangerous area. Some companies assume a 46 is a 44 with a little extra weight. Some assume it's a 42 with lots of padding. So they increase the chest but the shoulders don't grow at the same rate.

 

[Deep30hz]

Originally Posted by Nicola

Instead of going up in size try looking for brands cut with more normal shoulders.

You'll see threads with people whining about jackets/brands with big shoulders. They aren't big it's the wearer that doesn't fit the design.

Finally see if you can find any online suit sizing charts. 46 is a dangerous area. Some companies assume a 46 is a 44 with a little extra weight. Some assume it's a 42 with lots of padding. So they increase the chest but the shoulders don't grow at the same rate.

Yup, you hit the nail on the head with many manufacturers. I figured this is what I'm going to do and stay with a 44R while looking for a wider shoulder cut. I know they are out there. If I'm doing the Ebay thing I'll just make sure the seller is measuring in the right spot. Buying in person of course is the best and I'll check around that way as well.
Thanks for the response.