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A Couple of New Martegani Patterns

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by RIDER, Feb 3, 2005.

  1. RIDER

    RIDER Distinguished Member

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    [​IMG] [​IMG] This pattern is a variation on the trim from what I usually do with Martegani in that the edges are sanded, not trimmed, and the outsole is 1mm thicker with open channel. [​IMG] [​IMG] This is the standard construction/trim, in Rustik Calf - personnaly, I love the burgundy. All models now feature a full leather socklining (thanks John.) and a gold stamped heel seat, not a cloth label. And, of course, they are for sale  [​IMG]  [​IMG]  [​IMG]
     


  2. Alias

    Alias Distinguished Member

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    I really like the top pattern. I just can't dig those tasseled laces, though. [​IMG]
     


  3. JohnMS

    JohnMS Senior Member

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    For me a nice variation on what is otherwise a basic shoe style (e.g., Allen Edmonds Byron, Park Avenue, etc.)
     


  4. aarghh

    aarghh Senior Member

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    So the top one is on the 3B last, and the lower one on the 46?
    Very nice - I particularly like the top one.

    I don't see them listed for sale on your website yet...(down, boy.)
     


  5. RIDER

    RIDER Distinguished Member

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    Close...top model on 3E, which is very similiar toe 3B, but a fraction shorter and the toe box rounded a bit on the edges. Hopefully have them listed by tomorrow, have a couple of slip-on's to photograph as well. And have to clean that black shoe up, as I can see now.
    I have scissors [​IMG]
    Right, a good point. To me, there is little use in trying to re-invent the wheel, so to speak. The real appeal comes from the last a shoe is made on, the balance of a pattern (classic or otherwise), the quality of the materials and the price charged. I might sound a little like Chuck here, but each season we tweek the line a little more. The addition of a full socklining, the more extensive use of Rustik calf, the stamped logo, the customization options available to customers in a reasonable turnaround time, all the while keeping the prices the same make these shoes a great value - IMO. Of course, I am biased.
     


  6. jcusey

    jcusey Distinguished Member Dubiously Honored

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    Again with the shoe-salesman-ese. What do you mean when you say that the edges are "sanded, not trimmed," and why did you do this?
     


  7. chocoball

    chocoball Senior Member

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    Rider, are your Martegani's available in any store, or special orders available only at franco's? Do you know where I can find some Martegani's to try on for size in Hong Kong? I'm a US9.5/UK8.5/EU43.....and fit pretty true to size.
     


  8. RIDER

    RIDER Distinguished Member

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    Typically, after sizing the midsole and outsole to the desired extension, the edges are carved with knives in any number of profiles to create the visual appeal and balance of the pattern. In this case, the edges are sanded, not carved, so as to create a square edge. This gives the shoe a heavier, what he calls 'British', appeal. In reality, the mid and out soles are only 1mm different, but visually it appears much more.

    Not sure, but I will be glad to inquire.

    The Martegani production is strictly make-up, or made to order. I have no corner on the market, and he certainly needs to sell to more than me to stay in business. For example, my most popular pattern with them, the Floating Medallion, is available at Dominio, in the Netherlands, and I am sure, others. Also, I don't know about other accounts, and how they custom order shoes, or if they can, but it is something that I have worked very hard on, and am happy to offer my customers. At this point, I have a very good range of swatches, and a disk with the pattern archives is being produced to allow my customers to see everything that can be done - and changed if need be. There is also the possibility of traveling with the line, serving customers directly, in different cities here; at least we are considering it....
     


  9. RIDER

    RIDER Distinguished Member

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    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] And a couple of slip-ons for your perusal...
     


  10. redtree00

    redtree00 Senior Member

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    Ron,

    I love the slip ons and the balmoral captoe.

    What last did you use for the slip ons and what color/type is the leather ?
     


  11. RIDER

    RIDER Distinguished Member

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    The slip-ons are both on 46 last and the leathers are Rustik, on the gored slip-on, and Val (same as on the chiseled toe U-Wing), color Amber and, obviously, Black. The first shoe is Bombay.
     


  12. linux_pro

    linux_pro Senior Member

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    The top two shoes are gorgeous. Did you say these are custom made? Meaning if I was to order, I would need to order these or be sized in person or something? (I'm sorry, I've never ordered custom shoes so I have no idea how that works)
     


  13. jcusey

    jcusey Distinguished Member Dubiously Honored

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    No, not custom-made. Martegani is a very flexible manufacturer and allows the customer (that's RIDER) to choose an extensive range of options in the shoes he orders: what leather, what (stock) last, what construction, what sole characteristics, etc. You can order a stock special from Ron or other Martegani dealers where you specify all of those options for a reasonable upcharge.
     


  14. RIDER

    RIDER Distinguished Member

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    JCusey explained it well. The shoes are in my stock in size runs. When I say custom-made, I mean they are detailed by me for our shop. Sometimes I like a sample just the way it is, and buy it in different leathers/colors that I choose. Sometimes we take a sample and make changes to it. Also, I can sketch my own patterns and have Martegani interpret them - all on stock lasts. Although we can also adjust lasts - currently, two customers have specials being made where we have taken a stock last and had the factory wrap leather around the ball of the last so as to provide a wider fit at this point. Another is having an instep built up during production to accomodate his very high instep.

    So, lets say you like the gored slip-on, but would rather have it in a darker brown. I will send the shoes to determine fit, as well as a range of swatches so you can pick your own leather and color. I will not do custom specials without the customer having tried the shoes. Really, I prefer to have a stock shoe purchased, worn, and satisfied with before doing custom orders. I will take Allen Edmonds sizes that work and do specials from these measurements, due to the fact that I can calibrate the A/E fit and forward the measurements to the factory. We did two specials on this model today at the shop - one in a Rustik a shade or two lighter than Navy, and another in a combination Bombay (as pictured) and Olive. Bombay tip and quarters with a Olive (dark) vamp. This is what we mean by custom.
     


  15. linux_pro

    linux_pro Senior Member

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    I have a pair of Allen Edmonds (black split-toe) that I paid about the same amount for, and they are very comfortable, but I think they are ugly. I like the wingtips (the top two), but I can't try them on in person. How would they compare with Allen-Edmonds or Ferragamo when it comes to comfort? I do a lot of walking during the day, so as with my AE purchase, I generally place comfort first and then appearance. However, I really wish I could I find a shoe as comfortable as the AE but not nearly as plain and ugly.
     


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