Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by thinman, Apr 27, 2005.
In case anyone is interested...
Notably (at least for me) I can get a camel hair overcoat for $178 (instead of $595).
Can anybody comment on J. Bank's quality, (especially what quality I'm not getting by buying a coat at $595 rather than say, $1000 or so?)
Difference between an $600 overcoat and a $1000 overcoat will be (1) potentially some small drop in fabric quality, and (2) probability that the country of origin will be different.
Now, the difference between a $600 overcoat and a fully canvassed $2000 overcoat -- that's huge.
I thought that canvassing was less important for overcoats since the weight of the fabric makes it easier to retain shape?
EDIT: To put it another way, isn't there a bigger difference between a $600 fused sport coat / suit jacket and a $2000 canvassed jacket, as compared to the difference between a $600 fused overcoat and a $2000 canvassed overcoat?
Is there any reason (besides socio-political reasons) that I should care what country it comes from?
Also, since you say the huge jump comes w/ full canvas at $2000 or so - could you please elaborate?
I know what canvassing is, but why such a difference in overcoats? Are there other extras that come along with being canvassed that wouldn't be immediately apparent?
Canvassed overcoats = just as warm, but weighs about 25% less. That's the worst thing about fusing in overcoats -- doesn't add warmth, but adds to the weight. Also, fusing makes the fabric stiffer. Because the stiffer fabric can't mold to your body as well, that makes the coat seem even heavier.
Try on a canvas overcoat and you'll notice the difference immediately, I'd imagine.
BTW, I think there might be incremental improvements in quality control when you move into first-world countries. For example, I have a Corneliani overcoat from Polo -- it is fused (lapels might be canvassed, I think, just like the suits), but you can just tell that it is sewn better than for example a $350 Chinese-made Nautica coat (which I think are really good) -- it just fits better, and that has to have something to do with the skill of the laborers and the quality control.
It just seems to me that it's unreasonable to expect an overcoat to "mold" to your body the way a (canvassed) jacket can, since, after all, you are wearing it over a jacket/sweater rather than just a shirt.
I think the premium for a canvassed suit jacket is almost always worth it, I just have a harder time justifying that for an overcoat that (in New York City winters at least) is bound to see some hard wear from the bad weather, subways, etc.
I agree -- I think that it borders on idiotic to spend $2000 on an overcoat unless you are immune to price (i.e. filthy rich). Â You aren't wearing it enough to make the extra stiffness/weight matter very much.
However, if you can find a $2000 overcoat on sale for $400 . . .
Try on a Kiton or Barbera overcoat, though, and tell me if you don't think it molds to your body.
Agree with that post, of course if you can find the item at 80% off it's probably a good buy. Although I'm guessing that since Kiton suits are now >$5k, the price of their overcoat is comparable, yes?
Yeah. Barbera overcoats are about $2500; Kiton's are around $5K depending on fabric. Barbera overcoats are very nice though.
That is some serious coin. I think if you're at the point where you can afford to pay full retail price for a Kiton overcoat, why not have a bespoke tailor make you a vicuna or cashmere/mink or whatever is the most expensive these days. "As long as the lady is paying for it--why not take the Vicuna?"
I agree. My tailor will do a bespoke full-canvas overcoat -- 3 fittings, all work done in house (2 man operation) -- for $2200 using cashmere that blows away anything I've seen Kiton use.
What tailor (if you don't mind me asking) and what city? You're in Boston?
Joe Calautti -- AKA "Rizzo Tailor." Harvard Square, on Church Street.
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