650gsm overcoat for NYC winter

[rjc149]

Hello,

I recently received this overcoat from Spier & Mackay:

Dark Brown Prince of Wales Check Overcoat | SPIER & MACKAY

Spier & Mackay

www.spierandmackay.com

It's quite handsome and it's pretty flattering on me. I wanted a shorter and less formal coat for more versatility and this fits the bill perfectly.

It's 650 GSM 100% wool. I'm wondering if anyone has experience with this weight in NYC-type winters (our winters have been more mild of late). I'm talking about typical temp ranges of 25F - 35F, worn over either a suit jacket or a heavy sweater. I typically don a down parka when the temps dip below 25F and I expect to be outside for more than 20 minutes, so this isn't meant as an only winter coat.

I have a 90's vintage Hart Schafner Marx coat which I thrifted from Ebay, and while it's a heavier coat (I don't know the GSM but the coat is heavier in the hand), it's also longer. The issue with this coat is that the button stance is too low, leaving my chest almost completely exposed when worn with the lapels down.

There was another thread on this but the OP was asking for Canadian weather which I assume is colder than NYC.

The tags are still on the coat so this is an easy return. My other option would be to get a MTO coat with the 720 GSM navy twill pattern wool, but that's another $400 that I'm thinking is maybe not necessary for the additional 70 GSM.

Thanks!

 

[comrade]

That is a very light coat. It is 19+/- oz. Depending on your tolerance for cold and whether
you have to stand on a train platform for an extended period, as I did in Chicago, it might
work. I lived in New York and often wore a 32oz British Warm, which was sometimes excessive.
I alternated with a lighter Loden Balmacaan with a very tight weave. On the other hand, it is 1/3
the price of a typical overcoat from O'Connells and the like.

 

[Sreezy36]

Hello,

I recently received this overcoat from Spier & Mackay:

Dark Brown Prince of Wales Check Overcoat | SPIER & MACKAY

Spier & Mackay

www.spierandmackay.com

It's quite handsome and it's pretty flattering on me. I wanted a shorter and less formal coat for more versatility and this fits the bill perfectly.

It's 650 GSM 100% wool. I'm wondering if anyone has experience with this weight in NYC-type winters (our winters have been more mild of late). I'm talking about typical temp ranges of 25F - 35F, worn over either a suit jacket or a heavy sweater. I typically don a down parka when the temps dip below 25F and I expect to be outside for more than 20 minutes, so this isn't meant as an only winter coat.

I have a 90's vintage Hart Schafner Marx coat which I thrifted from Ebay, and while it's a heavier coat (I don't know the GSM but the coat is heavier in the hand), it's also longer. The issue with this coat is that the button stance is too low, leaving my chest almost completely exposed when worn with the lapels down.

There was another thread on this but the OP was asking for Canadian weather which I assume is colder than NYC.

The tags are still on the coat so this is an easy return. My other option would be to get a MTO coat with the 720 GSM navy twill pattern wool, but that's another $400 that I'm thinking is maybe not necessary for the additional 70 GSM.

Thanks!

*****

 

[epsilon22]

Really depends on your commute, for example, it'd be fine for me, since I only have to walk ~7 mins before reaching a nearby subway station, and I'd be entirely underground or indoors all the way to my office desk. If anything, I might even take the coat off inside the train.

 

[TimothyF]

That is a very light coat. It is 19+/- oz. Depending on your tolerance for cold and whether
you have to stand on a train platform for an extended period, as I did in Chicago, it might
work. I lived in New York and often wore a 32oz British Warm, which was sometimes excessive.
I alternated with a lighter Loden Balmacaan with a very tight weave. On the other hand, it is 1/3
the price of a typical overcoat from O'Connells and the like.

30+ oz fabrics are virtually non-existent today, because apparently modern people are soft and "can't bear that much weight".

 

[rjc149]

That is a very light coat. It is 19+/- oz. Depending on your tolerance for cold and whether
you have to stand on a train platform for an extended period, as I did in Chicago, it might
work. I lived in New York and often wore a 32oz British Warm, which was sometimes excessive.
I alternated with a lighter Loden Balmacaan with a very tight weave. On the other hand, it is 1/3
the price of a typical overcoat from O'Connells and the like.

I was trying to figure out the conversion on this. 650 grams/meter = ~19 oz/yard, but wouldn't it also equal 23 oz/meter?

Is the ounce measurement for wool fabric assuming per meter or per yard?

 

[rjc149]

Really depends on your commute, for example, it'd be fine for me, since I only have to walk ~7 mins before reaching a nearby subway station, and I'd be entirely underground or indoors all the way to my office desk. If anything, I might even take the coat off inside the train.

My commute involves up to 30 minutes of walking, depending on the weather and how I feel, and if I missed the bus. But standard is 10 minutes. After about 5-10 minutes of brisk walking I tend to heat up. My platform waits are all in underground subway stations which are 10-20 degrees warmer than outside.

I want to wear it out and about on winter nights out on the town and such in 30's and high 20's.

 

[epsilon22]

My commute involves up to 30 minutes of walking, depending on the weather and how I feel, and if I missed the bus. But standard is 10 minutes. After about 5-10 minutes of brisk walking I tend to heat up. My platform waits are all in underground subway stations which are 10-20 degrees warmer than outside.

I want to wear it out and about on winter nights out on the town and such in 30's and high 20's.

I think it should be fine, as long as you cover your neck (turtlenecks or scarf). If you find it too cold you can go with your parkas and wear this one when it's not as cold.

 

[comrade]

30+ oz fabrics are virtually non-existent today, because apparently modern people are soft and "can't bear that much weight".

View attachment 2248667

I am neither modern nor soft. The British Warm was from Chipp in NYC bought over 30
years ago. I did not mention my Invertere " Monster Melton" greatcoat that I still have
and displayed on SF last year. I now live in California and only wear my Balmacaan
when I travel to colder climes. The British Warm was donated. The Invertere:

https://www.styleforum.net/attachments/img-2177-jpg.1884795/

 

[comrade]

I am neither modern nor soft. The British Warm was from Chipp in NYC bought over 30
years ago. I did not mention my Invertere " Monster Melton" greatcoat that I still have
and displayed on SF last year. I now live in California and only wear my Balmacaan
when I travel to colder climes. The British Warm was donated. The Invertere:

https://www.styleforum.net/attachments/img-2177-jpg.1884795/

https://www.styleforum.net/attachments/img-2176-jpg.1884796/

 

[rjc149]

I think it should be fine, as long as you cover your neck (turtlenecks or scarf). If you find it too cold you can go with your parkas and wear this one when it's not as cold.

Here's a good blog page I found discussing wool coats and NYC winters:

Permanent Style

The guide to overcoating cloths

www.permanentstyle.com

One commenter here states that anything 500 GSM and up is adequate for NYC winters, except on the few really frigid days where you wear down. We've been having mild and wet winters lately so maybe that jives if you layer. I've had cheaper coats probably in the 500 GSM range that were just not cutting it if I was standing outside for more than 10 minutes or so.

I'm now leaning toward a MTO coat in 750 GSM melton wool which should have me safely covered.

 

[jeremygo]

I'd agree that the 650 GSM would probably be fine for everything except maybe 2-5 days a year here in NYC. I run pretty warm though as an upstate transplant to these more temperate climes.

 

[epsilon22]

My biggest gripe with heavier coats is that I'll often have to take it off on longer and packed train rides. Which is a pain when I'm already carrying a briefcase and possibly stuffs like food or groceries.

If I have to spend time walking outside though, 650gsm coat would leave me dead. I'm a tropical transplant.