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45rpm

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by NickPollica, May 31, 2017.

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  1. NickPollica

    NickPollica Distinguished Member

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    It surprises me that there isn't a ton of talk about 45rpm on this forum so I thought I would start a dedicated thread.

    For those that are unfamiliar, 45 is Japanese brand that has spent nearly 4 decades making uncompromisingly beautiful garments by focusing on innovative textiles, playful and interesting details and easy, endlessly wearable silhouettes. As someone who considers himself a detail-driven designer, I am continuously humbled by the thoughtfulness that goes into their product. It is just so good.

    Here's a small sampling of some of imagery from past campaigns of theirs to kick things off:



    45R-Fall-Winter-2014-Collection-Lookbook-01.jpg 45R-Fall-Winter-2014-Collection-Lookbook-05.jpg

    45rpm-Fall-Winter-2015-Collection-Lookbook-15.jpg

    Screen Shot 2017-05-31 at 10.14.39 PM.png Screen Shot 2017-05-31 at 10.15.36 PM.png Screen Shot 2017-05-31 at 10.15.00 PM.png

    Screen Shot 2017-05-31 at 10.14.39 PM.png
     

  2. rocks

    rocks Distinguished Member

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    The brand has been discussed here before, at least when all the rave was about "raw denim"....back in 2006/2007
     

  3. NickPollica

    NickPollica Distinguished Member

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    I think the denim itself is probably the least interesting thing they do.
     

  4. Nbarbar

    Nbarbar Well-Known Member

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  5. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Mahatma Jawndi Dubiously Honored

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    Am I crazy for thinking we have a 45rpm thread? I feel like there used to be a thread dedicated to posting 45rpm lookbooks.

    Anyway, agree it's a great brand.
     

  6. IJReilly

    IJReilly Senior Member

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    Love everything I've seen. Anyone know where to find it online in Europe? Edit: was right on their website. Reminded me of why I've never bought anything from them before; their prices are crazy.
     
    Last edited: May 31, 2017

  7. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    Me, I am in love with the Henry Cuir stuff. A man needs leather.
     

  8. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Mahatma Jawndi Dubiously Honored

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    Speaking of 45rpm, Eric Kvatek is really a fantastic photographer. His work for Kapital and 45rpm is always so great.
     

  9. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    I've heard second hand (so, never met him myself, but know someone who has) that he is a really odd guy and super-militaristic about his environmental footprint, to the point of being off-putting. For example, and I read this, he apparently brings his food into places so as to not deplete the local food supply - stuff like that that is a bit extreme and I imagine would be difficult to live with.
     

  10. NickPollica

    NickPollica Distinguished Member

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    Not if you consider what goes into each garment. From a construction perspective, much of what they make seems simple but I have never seen a single 45 garment up close that one of my Italian suppliers could replicate without charging double. Their product can't be mass produced. There is always some beautifully done finishing or construction technique that must be done by hand or requires a special machine that would slow the production line. Regarding textiles, everything they run is proprietary and developed from the yarn stage so they know where everything is coming from and can control the entire process. The dedication to excellence is truly staggering when you know just how little thought and how much automation goes into the majority of other high priced luxury goods.

    I love Eric work as well and have communicated with him a bit (fun fact; We discovered Summer, the girl we use in all of our women's shoots, from one of the Kapital books and he introduced us). He's an intense guy for sure but I think that is part of what makes the Kapital stuff so compelling.
     

  11. NickPollica

    NickPollica Distinguished Member

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    Simple summer vibes.

    Screen Shot 2016-07-24 at 5.03.13 PM.png Screen Shot 2016-06-30 at 3.43.02 PM.png r-by-45rpm-collection-2011-summer-designer-denim-jeans-fashion-t2.jpg Screen Shot 2016-06-30 at 9.54.18 PM.png Linen crew.png Screen Shot 2016-02-24 at 10.55.46 AM.png

    Screen Shot 2017-04-11 at 8.26.28 AM.png

    Screen Shot 2017-04-11 at 8.26.40 AM.png
     

  12. IJReilly

    IJReilly Senior Member

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    Interesting. I find this attitude very appealing. Could you possibly give an example of one of these construction techniques?

    This was really nice. The EU desperately needs to finish that free trade agreement with Japan:

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jun 1, 2017

  13. NickPollica

    NickPollica Distinguished Member

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    Take a look at the pants below. Seems like a standard pair of navy chinos, right?
    IMG_3052.JPG

    The french seams at the side pockets are off-set so that they look like they are piped:
    IMG_3053.JPG

    The full curtained waistband is attached to the interior of the pant with hand sewn floating bartacks:
    IMG_3055.JPG IMG_3056.JPG

    The interior waistband's top edge is chainstitched, which is often found on denim waistbands, but it also has a split back waist, so this must be turned inward by hand. You can also see more hand bartacking where the waist is joined to the excess fabric of the center back seam, which as also been finished with a chainstitch.
    IMG_3054.JPG

    The entirety of the outside internal seam (where selvedge would be on denim) is finished with a chainstitch as well:
    FullSizeRender 8.jpg

    Aside from all this I haven't mentioned the hand embroidered logo, contrast and irregularly placed center back belt loop, unusual back darts, etc.

    Finally, a funny story about these. We have tested 4 or 5 different sportpant factories in Italy and the US with Eidos and every time we set out with one I give them these pants and ask the factory to replicate them as a test. None of them have been able to do it. The ones that got close asked us for first cost pricing of around 100 euros for make alone (not including fabric). So if you take that and factor in roughly 40 euros for fabric and trim then you have a final first cost of 140 euros. We take that and double it and then our wholesale partners times that number by 2.5. You are now looking at an Eidos chino that retails around 700 euros. The originals cost $425.
     

  14. IJReilly

    IJReilly Senior Member

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    ^Thanks, that was very interesting.

    I need to go back to Tokyo soon, where the food is great and all this stuff is more reasonably priced.
     
    Last edited: Jun 1, 2017

  15. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Mahatma Jawndi Dubiously Honored

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    That's a nice rundown.

    Curious how people feel about those kinds of details. To give an example, I get pants made by a tailor. Fully machine stitched, bespoke trousers are something like $400 or $500. Depending on the level of handwork you want, the price goes up. So, for example, you could get the waistband attached with handsewing or a machine topstitch. The second is obviously cheaper (included in that $400-500 price). I can't remember how much a handsewn waistband cost, but I remember it being a lot more expensive than the other handmade details. FWIW, a fully handstitched/ hand finished pair runs something like $800, so roughly 2x the price of machine. (Prices here are CMT, IIRC).

    I've opted for fully handmade pairs (with the usual machine sewing on long seams), but for all intents and purposes, the thing looks the same either way. The waistband construction, for example, will look a little cleaner when it's handsewn, but -- who looks at that, ever? Same with handsewn buttonholes. The only thing that could make a visual impact is maybe the decorative handsewn topstitching that goes up the leg, but ironically, I think most guys who buy this stuff would agree that the work there is best when it's unnoticeable.

    I obviously like the stuff enough to pay for it, but I also sometimes wonder if a machine sewn option just isn't more sensible. Especially for pants, which wear out more quickly than other garments. It's like a fleeting piece of luxury. For the kind of details Antonio listed above, the offset French seams at the side pocket lend a cool amount of detail, but the other stuff will likely never be seen or even appreciated, maybe even by the end consumer.

    $400 seems like an unusually good price given the other options on the market, but I'm curious how those kinds of details factor into people's purchase decisions. Just bought a pair of Eidos seersucker Ghurka pants, which would be impossible to get at an affordable price through a tailor. But 100% of that decision was based on the design. I can't even appreciate any cool, complicated details cause I'm buying online and stores rarely have the resources to do these kinds of run throughs (like what Antonio gave above).
     

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