40R Chest, 42R Stomach - Do I buy 40R or 42R?

[rossyl]

Hi Everyone,

Firstly, while losing weight might be the ultimate solution, I need to wear a suit every day, so I need an Immediate solution.

A 40R suit jacket does not close around my stomach.

A 42R or 42S does close around my stomach but I end up with some extra fabric on my chest. Light pooling.

So which is the better option, a jacket I can never button, or, a jacket I can button but has a little extra fabric in the chest?

I am yet to find a OTR cut for the man carrying more round the waist.

I live in London, so could visit Pinnas and Needles (a tailor) but I don't want to spend a fortune on this suit.

Appreciate your thoughts!

Thanks

 

[Veremund]

Neither. Keep looking till you find one that fits.

 

[rossyl]

Any UK brands that might?

 

[Simone1]

Most stores are able to make a waist smaller by tailoring - Where I come from, its a cost of 40 pounds.

Have you tried checking out your options at your local department store?

Simone

 

[GBR]

You buy what fits, not what the label says.

Go to a bricks and mortar shop and don't be idle.

 

[philosophe]

You need to try different brands. Not all suits are made for the same body type/shape.

 

[rossyl]

I tried lots! Spent a few hours going round various shops. Either it fit the chest and not the stomach, or, fit the stomach and was a bit large in the chest.

I can't be the only guy with a gut!

 

[breakaway01]

So you have a 40 inch chest? What is your waist size? Most 40R jackets will be cut to accommodate a 34-36 inch waist.

 

[philosophe]

Did you see about whether the OTR jackets can be let out in the waist? Perhaps you need MTM. Or are there shops for more portly gentlemen?

 

[rossyl]

Waist is about 36. But my stomach protrudes that by a couple of inches.

 

[chippneckwear]

You need a "stout" model. I don't know who makes that model. The general "rule" is you must fit your largest dimension - in your case your waist. The aspects of fit which are then too large can be reduced. It is easier to take things in than to let them out. The 40 will have a 34 waist trouser. If there is enough out let in the trouser you can buy the 40 and wear the jacket open. If you buy the 42, the trouser will fit , the jacket will button, and the fullness in the chest can be reduced. Do the shoulders in the 42 fit? If you need to reduce the shoulders, that can be costly. Because you are a split size, MTM is the best answer.
Paul Winston
Winston Tailors/ www.chippneckwear.com

 

[rossyl]

Hi,

Sorry forgot to update this!

So I bought a 42. I then took it to an alterations tailor. I was basically told off! The shoulders too big, the chest pooling, to large across the back. The only place it fitted was the stomach!

So back to the 40 and it will be let out at the waist

 

[rossyl]

In other news, apparently Roderick Charles do suits for the more stocky gentleman.

The suit I bought was from Jaeger.

 

[Astaroth]

The normal rule of thumb is to buy for shoulders/chest and have the rest adjusted as they are the most difficult parts to retailor.

My problem is that I am more extreme than you are and have 4" difference between gut and chest so no hope of getting the smaller size and having it let out plus being a bit barrel chested means shoulders are also too wide even on correct size for my chest.

Personally not found anywhere which does something that fits me OTR, I've only talked to Roderick Charles about their MTM and was unimpressed by their hard sale techniques so left but could understand if they were slightly more aimed at the portly older City manager type.