4 year evolution of my WW Chan pattern

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by DandySF, Aug 1, 2008.

  1. DandySF

    DandySF Senior member

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    Over the past four years I've worked with Chan to refine the fit and style of my jacket pattern. I think we're finally getting close to what I like. Here's a quick synoposis, starting from the most recent. Perhaps this will be helpful to others who are considering a jacket, whether from Chan or someone else.

    The latest effort is made from a checked wool from Porter & Harding's Glorious Twelfth bunch.
    • open patch pockets, inset boat-shaped chest pocket
    • 3.0 inch lapels
    • 2 button
    • three sleeve buttons, horn
    • full lining
    • double vents
    • narrower sleeves, closer fitting through the body
    • same light canvas as before
    [​IMG]

    The previous jacket is a slightly lustrous silk/wool blend from Holland & Sherry. This has
    • slanted flapped pockets
    • 3.25 inch lapels
    • 2 button
    • four sleeve buttons (smoked mother of pearl)
    • partial lining, for coolness
    • double vents
    • the lightest canvas
    • more open quarters
    [​IMG]

    The first jacket is an Italian wool/cashmere in autumnal colors. The left sleeve remains a work in progress. First the left shoulder was too bulky. Once it was fixed the left sleeve was too short. Last month I had it lengthened and now it's too long. Back to the local tailor it goes for what I hope will be the final adjustment.
    • flapped pockets
    • 3.5 inch lapels
    • 3 button (not fond of the top button hole on the lapel)
    • four sleeve buttons, horn
    • full lining
    • double vents
    • Chan's default weight canvas
    • Ticket pocket


    [​IMG]
     
  2. JLibourel

    JLibourel Senior member

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    Interesting how similar our tastes are. Not only do we have the exact same gun club check from the Glorious Twelfth collection, but I have an E. Thomas Italian wool cashmere blend they made for me that is so similar to yours I had to get mine out of the closet to be sure we didn't have the same fabric there as well.

    I am curious about a couple of things: Why did you get the wool-cashmere jacket half-lined? Since that is a comparatively warm fabric to begin with, it seems kind of odd and counter-productive to choose it and then get it half-lined to make it cooler...but maybe I'm missing something.

    Also, any particular reason for the three sleeve buttons with a two-button jacket? I thought there was supposed to be a sort of odd-even correlation, ideally, i.e., if you got a one- or three-button, three sleeve buttons, two or four for a two button. I note, however, that that all my RTW three-button suits have four sleeve buttons and one of my two-button sport coats has three sleeve buttons. However, the latter is cheapo purchased before I discovered the wonder of Chan!

    Patrick has stuck with the 3.5 inch lapel width for me, which suits me fine, and I think the button stance he uses for me is a bit lower than yours. Otherwise the tailoring of our jackets seems pretty similar.
     
  3. Axelman 17

    Axelman 17 Senior member

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    Definitely nice to see the progression. Perhaps it is the picture angle or the way you are standing but the quarters in the top picture look extremely closed. Was this requested? The middle picture has quarters that are right around my ideal.

    Really like the fabric on the top jacket btw.
     
  4. coogie

    coogie Senior member

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    love the first one.

    May i ask your age?
     
  5. sfo423

    sfo423 Senior member

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    Most recent looks best; IMO, it would look better with quarters a bit more open. But, "to each, their own."
     
  6. Mildly Consumptive

    Mildly Consumptive Senior member

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    This is a swell idea for a thread. I like the obvious improvement with each version. I especially like the narrowing of the sleeves.

    I thought there was supposed to be a sort of odd-even correlation, ideally, i.e., if you got a one- or three-button, three sleeve buttons, two or four for a two button.

    I have never heard of this. As far as I know, 3 or 4 buttons are appropriate for suit jackets, and depend entirely on personal taste. And in the past, 1 or 2 buttons were appropriate for odd jackets, but this has been forgotten over time and odd jackets will tend to have the same number of buttons as suit jackets these days.
     
  7. Douglas

    Douglas Stupid ass member

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    I love the newest jacket; it is beautiful and the fit is clearly the best of the three. Well done!

    I don't like the hacking pockets on the second one - They do not flatter you. They make it look like you have a pear-shaped bottom half, which you clearly do not have from the looks of the other cuts.

    I suppose it could be the angle of the photo or the haste with which you threw on the jacket, but in the third (oldest) jacket the left sleeve appears to be too long by a good inch.
     
  8. oscarthewild

    oscarthewild Senior member

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    Hello,
    [​IMG]

    Maybe it is the photograph but could the balance (fore - aft ) need a little work? I have had the same issue in one of my custom jackets. The horizontal lines of the check appear to be rising as one traces them from the side to the front in the mid torso region. Also the quarters.
     
  9. DandySF

    DandySF Senior member

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    JLibourel
    Yet another coincidence: we both have the same E. Thomas Italian wool-cashmere blend. I was mistaken about the lining on the wool-cashmere jacket--it's fully lined. I've corrected the original posting.

    I think four sleeve buttons look good on a suit. For a more casual jacket I prefer fewer buttons. I'm working down to just two buttons on the next order. It reminds me of vintage jackets I've seen. I wish I'd ordered just two on this latest jacket.

    Axelman 17
    I agree that the quarters are rather closed, more so than I'd prefer. It's puzzling why they would differ from the prior jacket. At least with RTW you know exactly what you'll be getting. There's always a bit of a surprise when I receive things I've ordered. This will serve as a reminder to myself that I cannot over-communicate about the details.

    coogie
    Forty-four

    Douglas
    The left sleeve remains a work in progress. First the left shoulder was too bulky. Once it was fixed the left sleeve was too short. Last month I had it lengthened and now it's too long. Back to the local tailor it goes for what I hope will be the final adjustment.

    oscarthewild
    I see what you mean, but I think the alignment issues you note are due to my imperfect pose and the camera angle. The horizontal stripes are level when the jacket is on.
     
  10. blackplatano

    blackplatano Senior member

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    Over the past four years I've worked with Chan to refine the fit and style of my jacket pattern. I think we're finally getting close to what I like.



    Wow.
     
  11. Charlie

    Charlie Senior member

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    Is it just me, or aren't the jackets a bit long? They go past the thumb, can't cup the fingers, and look like they rest several inches below the crotch.
     
  12. Mildly Consumptive

    Mildly Consumptive Senior member

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    Is it just me, or aren't the jackets a bit long? They go past the thumb, can't cup the fingers, and look like they rest several inches below the crotch.

    Kind of hard to tell without a picture of the whole body. They look fine to me though.
     
  13. STYLE_ADDICT

    STYLE_ADDICT Well-Known Member

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    I don't like the hacking pockets on the second one - They do not flatter you.


    +1 on the hacking pockets. The newest jacket looks great! I also took notice of the left shoulder in the first jacket, and both shoulders in the second (more so the left though). There seems to be something going on there as they do not form the nice straight line from neck to shoulder that is more evident in the newest jacket. To my eye there is a slight "bump" in the former jackets. Not sure if this is something you are addressing in your timeline......or, it could very well just be me.
     

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