3pc suit questions

[micbain]

I've never owned one, so a few basic (aka dumb) questions:

1. Should the jacket be 2btn or 3? or is it simply preference?
2. Same question as above for notch vs peak lapels
3. Can the 3pc be worn without the vest - will the proportions be off as compared to a 2pc?

Thanks

 

[MrDaniels]

1) Depends on the cut of the vest to some degree. I personally do not like a high-cut 3-button on a three-piece.

2) Personal choice. Notch is more classic, peak more fashion-forward. I like notch better for me.

3) If the suit is well-tailored it should only be a miniscule diffrence.

 

[rssmsvc]

Brooks had some nice 3 piece suits last season and I didn't like the 3 btn ones at all, I think vests look fantastic in 2 Btn suits. Isaia makes a killer 2 btn vested model.

 

[eHaberdasher]

Originally Posted by micbain

I've never owned one, so a few basic (aka dumb) questions:

1. Should the jacket be 2btn or 3? or is it simply preference?
2. Same question as above for notch vs peak lapels
3. Can the 3pc be worn without the vest - will the proportions be off as compared to a 2pc?

Thanks

1. We recommend a 2-button or a 3 rolling to 2.5
2. Both have their place - depends on where you live and/or work
3. Yes - can be worn without the vest. The vest should be quite form fitting. Remember to leave the bottom button unbuttoned to ensure that you're still comfortable when sitting down while wearing the vest.

 

[lordofpi]

Originally Posted by micbain

1. Should the jacket be 2btn or 3? or is it simply preference?

Well, my understanding is that a true 3-button 3-piece is the height of Informal dress (i.e., the most formal lounge suit style one can use). Nevertheless, like the others, I generally prefer 2 or 3-roll-2 in order to show more of the waistcoat.

Originally Posted by micbain

2. Same question as above for notch vs peak lapels

Notch is classic. Other seem to like a lot of peaks; I generally reserve these for formalwear, though I do have a couple to break up the mix now and again.

Originally Posted by micbain

3. Can the 3pc be worn without the vest - will the proportions be off as compared to a 2pc?

As others have already remarked, so long as everything has been tailored properly, there ought to be no noticable difference. Just about every suit I have made nowadays is 3-piece because that way, I can always wear the waistcoat if I want to do so, but I am in no way required (and many times do not).

 

[Mark from Plano]

1. I have both.

2. I have both.

3. I do it all the time.


Then again, I'm a well known philistine so be careful with my advice.

 

[micbain]

Awesome. Thanks!

 

[yachtie]

Nope- 6x2 DB.

 

[micbain]

Originally Posted by yachtie

Nope- 6x2 DB.

You just blew my mind

 

[tlmusic]

A single-breasted three-piece suit with peak lapel is not really fashion forward. It is a classic style that was especially popular in the 1930's. The more recent peak lapel SB suits with no vest strike me as much more fashion forward. The peak lapel implies formality, and goes well with a vest, which is also a formal feature. The peak lapel SB suit looks wrong to me without a vest, but I am pretty traditionalist

P. S. Given that you need a longer roll for the peak lapel (so you can see the vest), I would suggest a two-button jacket, or perhaps a three roll two.

 

[micbain]

Follow up question:

I notice a lot of suits have two pockets on the right side (don't know the technical definition). Is this appropriate on 3pc suits or again is it personal preference?

 

[yachtie]

Originally Posted by micbain

Follow up question:

I notice a lot of suits have two pockets on the right side (don't know the technical definition). Is this appropriate on 3pc suits or again is it personal preference?

the extra small pocket is called a "ticket pocket" is is never "required". It's just an occasional cool to have. No correlation to having a vest. Get it if you want it- if you don't, don't.

 

[FrankDrebben]

I have been doing peaks on all of my suits recently...it sets you apart from the crowd.

I hate ticket pockets. I have never seen one that I thought added anything and have seen quite a few where it has distracted.

 

[OxxfordSJLINY]

also works extremely well with a vest. Avoid a ticket pocket with a peak lapel SB (SB being single breasted) jacket, regardless of button count, button configuration or anything else as a peak lapel SB jacket is considered neck and neck with a shawl lapel SB jacket as the most formal jacket style (and very formal overall). A ticket pocket is more informal (and not all that formal overall). As a result, a ticket pocket clashes with peak lapel and shawl lapel SB jackets.

A notch lapel SB jacket, again, regardless of button count, button configuration or anything else works equally well with or without a ticket pocket as a notch lapel SB jacket can be just as informal as it is formal, making this jacket style highly versatile.

I would go with what they call a medium cut 6 X 5 button (where the sixth button and button hole are positioned so that they can never be fastened to each other as it makes for far better fit, drapery, comfort and appearance without going against the rule of the bottom button remaining unbuttoned even with the fifth button being buttoned) classic style SB vest (with the medium sized and medium spread angled and pointed bottom on the center of the front of the vest). I recommend that the vest has a notch lapel as it gives the vest much more visual pizzazz with the elegance and formality of the vest being the same as it is with no lapel on the vest. However, if you choose to have the vest made without a lapel that works extremely well, too.

I am surprised that nobody here other than me has suggested a one button SB jacket (not yet, anyway).

 

[J Simulcik]

I suggest a one button SB jacket.