3DM Lifestyle: $150 Leather Shoes (A Cheaper Meermin?)

[dluce76]

Looking for suggestions. My absolute favorite shoes right now are a pair of dark brown suede Chelseas. Problem is I wear them too much. I really like the aesthetic of a sleek boot and have found I reach for slip on styles most frequently. I am definitely going with black. I’ve never own jodhpurs so I am stuck between going with a the Chelsea style I know and already have or to try something new in the jodhpurs.

I don’t know if this matters to anyone, but this would be the only pair of black shoes/boots I own.

What do you think?

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I've never owned either type so sorry can't be of help. My impression is that Chelseas are the easiest to slip on and off. I can't tell from the web pics but they might be on different lasts - maybe shoot them an email to confirm.

 

[Mercurio]

Much appreciated. I had not followed his comments but I personally don't think Blake rapid is any worse than gyw. Frankly I like the lighter weight and more flexible feel. Just requires a special machine to resole. Can you link to those comments?

I checked the 3DM web page where they say their construction is Blake stitched, not Rapid Blake which is a far different type, although confused many times: "Our shoes feature Blake-Stitched construction for longevity and comfort. It also allows for increased flexibility and a sleek silhouette". Sorry if this disappoints you, but I wouldn't compare Blake with GYW.

There is a quite interesting thread on Shoe Construction, that is worth to have a look:
https://www.styleforum.net/threads/shoe-construction-behind-the-veil.191166/

From the same thread, some very interesting shoe cuts that show differences in shoe construction:

It just so happened that I was cutting up some shoes again this weekend.....trying to find a clean way to show the Norvegese & Rapid on my site. Not sure I can use these there, but I noticed this so thought it might be useful for some fresh cut-ups:

Norvegese:

You can also call this Bentivegna....more or less the same thing. I don't think the pic needs much explaining - pretty solid work here.

Rapid:

Again, not much to tell here the picture can't explain.....insole/midsole/outsole stitched on 2 different machines as explained above.

Rapid w/Sestiere/Dainite:

Same work, but here we put a layer of cushion between the midsole & outsole.....very durable outsoles, but hard, and can be cold in winter conditions. We could use leather, but I'm not necessarily a stickler for tradition, and I think the cushion is a better alternative.

BlakeX:

This is an interesting one....and many here seem to think that constructions are straight forward XYZ always the same type work, so here is maybe something new.....we were able - IMO - to improve the typical Blake construction by adding a full layer of a combo recycled leather/cushion rubber 'lining' (instead of the decorative rand) which eliminated the occasional objection of this type of construction 'leaking' while still maintaining the light, flexible, close trimmed nature of a Blake shoe.

GY:

This is not mine.....rather C&J and is for another something I had to work on. Anyway, typical GYW, although this particular model uses a double sole. I know I've read here over and over how the feather can come loose and all, but based on this cut up I find it hard to believe it's a common issue on a well made shoe. Of course, I'm not a shoe repairman or anything, so TIFWIW.

 

[dluce76]

I checked the 3DM web page where they say their construction is Blake stitched, not Rapid Blake which is a far different type, although confused many times: "Our shoes feature Blake-Stitched construction for longevity and comfort. It also allows for increased flexibility and a sleek silhouette". Sorry if this disappoints you, but I wouldn't compare Blake with GYW.

There is a quite interesting thread on Shoe Construction, that is worth to have a look:
https://www.styleforum.net/threads/shoe-construction-behind-the-veil.191166/

From the same thread, some very interesting shoe cuts that show differences in shoe construction:

Hmm yes disappointing.
I wasn't aware of the difference between the two so that is my bad. Appeciate the education.
Still worth it IMHO when they are on sale.

 

[Mercurio]

Hmm yes disappointing.
I wasn't aware of the difference between the two so that is my bad. Appeciate the education.
Still worth it IMHO when they are on sale.

Yes, I agree with that: they have some nice models, others not my cup of tea...

May I suggest the Outlet Cortina eBay website? Worth to have a look for discounted prices in Martegani and other brands that they manufacture as a shoe factory, most of them are Rapid Blake. You can check what they have by size:

http://www.ebaystores.it/Outlet-Cortina1955

 

[stylish_raven]

blake construction shoes are the ones that have the leather/suede sewn directly to the sole, whilst the goodyear welted hast a double stitched method.
The goodyear welted shoes are stiffer at first however they get comfyer with use. Blake is more flexible but somewhat less durable.

Those look really nice. What is blake rapid?

 

[Thin White Duke]

Looking for suggestions. My absolute favorite shoes right now are a pair of dark brown suede Chelseas. Problem is I wear them too much. I really like the aesthetic of a sleek boot and have found I reach for slip on styles most frequently. I am definitely going with black. I’ve never own jodhpurs so I am stuck between going with a the Chelsea style I know and already have or to try something new in the jodhpurs.

I don’t know if this matters to anyone, but this would be the only pair of black shoes/boots I own.

What do you think?

View attachment 1120698

I’ve had loads of Chelseas down the years and currently own ...

Cheap black calf Aldo
Snuff suede Meermin
Red burgundy calf Carmina
Dark burgundy horse Epaulet

I was always intrigued by jodhpur boots after seeing a picture of them decades ago. Didn’t even know what they were called (Cavalry boots?) for a long time. Anyway got some in chestnut calf from Tricker’s several years ago and they are a decent boot but unless you’re sitting cross legged nobody can see the elaborate straps so they have the same look as Chelseas under your strides.

One advantage is that you don’t have to worry about the possible unsightly stretching of the elastic gores. Buckling the straps is a bit more fiddly than pulling on chelseas. It all boils down to preference but my jodhpurs get the least wear of all so make of that what you will.

 

[Button hole]

Thanks for the feedback, I haven’t pulled the trigger yet. But I am going with the jodhpurs. I will definitely report back when I get them.

 

[Art Fern]

View attachment 1095503 View attachment 1095504 View attachment 1095506 View attachment 1095507 I've been following this brand for awhile but never pulled the trigger until Black Friday this year, when they had 50% off each pair if you bought 3 or more pairs. Figured I needed some beat around shoes so why not buy a few types and see.

One of them w pics attached is a new model captoe brogue with a chiseled toe in tan color. I found it to be narrower than a normal size 11US in the heel, which is actually what I like (most D width shoes are great at instep but too wide at heel for me). So fit was great for me but it is a narrow last. The last shape, to me, is modern and exactly what I go for.

The burnishing was OK - I actually spent a while using Huberd's shoe oil to give it a darker patina and some age and to really hydrate the leather. I think it came out well.

As you can see from the close ups, my biggest gripe is how thin the leather is and how prone to creasing it is. It was the same across all 3 pairs I bought (a brogue wingtip boot and a tassel loafer). Understandable at this price point, and it isn't creased when it arrives, it just creased easily with any wear.

Otherwise, the construction is flawless on all 3 pairs. No QC issues like previously documented in this thread for any of the 3 pairs I received, one of which came through their Amazon store.

In all, I like the design and construction of the product a lot. I didn't like how thin the leather is and how easily it creases.

That said, they were 100% worth the price (~$80 per pair), and they have deals occasionally that make them a good buy. I would recommend them.

I would dive in for $80-$120, sight unseen if I thought the sizing is correct. As it is they have a table of U.K./US/EU sizing. I would take a U.K. 10 because my US size is 11.5, BUT the chart has 11-11.5 both as the same size, but 11’s most often are too tight, 11.5 perfect. I was concerned with the leather thickness, thin leather can stretch out of shape and wrinkle badly like cheap leather furniture. The shoe ads call the leather Argentinian odd for shoes from India with almost zero chance India would buy leather from Argentina, when India has seemingly zillions of mom and pop tanneries. Yes, of course they are located on river banks so they can use river water then dispose of the dirty, heavy mineral laden water back into the river. India is a filthy place.

 

[dluce76]

Thanks for the feedback, I haven’t pulled the trigger yet. But I am going with the jodhpurs. I will definitely report back when I get them.

@Button hole did you get them?

 

[dluce76]

Just for kicks, I commissioned burgundy lazyman oxfords on a combination leather/rubber sole. $160. Will post up in 4-6 weeks when they arrive.

 

[dluce76]

The lazymans came in.

 

[An Acute Style]

The lazymans came in.

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The last and details look great. The quality of the leather and the creasing seems questionable. Thoughts?

 

[dluce76]

The last and details look great. The quality of the leather and the creasing seems questionable. Thoughts?

Agreed. Creased with one wear. That said, hard to see unless you're up close.

My other leather pair creasing has evened out quite a bit with lots of bick 4 - so maybe the leather is undernourished in general. The suede is doing great.

Not top quality leather, but I guess can't expect that at a $160 MTO price. Esp because this isn't a stocked RTW model, I'm ok with it. They even let me pick the type of medallion I wanted on the toecap (doesn't come normally on their lazyman design).

 

[dluce76]

So after a strip w renomat, 1 coat of bick 4 over the entire shoe and 3 more liberal coats over the creases along with some trees, the creases settled out nicely. Did some antiquing/burnishing as well. I think they're serviceable.

 

[An Acute Style]

They definitely look good even with the creases. They’re a great value. I would definitely go with suede over leather. They have a few spectator models that have me on the fence about that though.