gabedamien
Member
- Joined
- Mar 3, 2011
- Messages
- 21
- Reaction score
- 3
Hi all,
Long time lurker, first time poster. I have a challenge for you style gurus out there; I'd like to replace my (baggy, 1999-era, boxy, pleated) 40L Hickey Freeman suit with something that, you know, FITS and looks a bit more continental. Unfortunately I am a size 38L, which as you can guess just makes RTW salespeople laugh. Specifically, I am 26 years old, 6'2.5" and 140 lbs, no joke. The "middle-aged American banker special" just looks silly on me.
I recently tried on a Canali 38R jacket and loved the chest, arm width, waist supression, lapel shape, shoulder style, drape, etc. Also saw some Corneliani suits that seemed nice. But of course the (R) meant that the jacket was slightly too short, the sleeves were *definitely* too short, and the pockets were a touch high. Probably other difficulties my untrained eye couldn't detect as well.
By contrast, you might think a 40L with some tailoring would do the trick. No dice. The jacket immediately went from looking like it was made for me, to looking like a wavy sack. The arms were way too full, and there was little likelihood of it being fixed by simply bringing in the middle. The only thing that was right was the sleeve and jacket length (ok, the shoulders still fit).
Thus far I have lucked out on blazers; a similarly slim gentleman ordered MTM Oxxford and walked away, leaving me to grab it later at a discount. And I have a 40L Armani blazer that similarly works, as it seems to be slimmer than the normal 40L (and it tailored well).
Ideally I want a charcoal suit, 2-button single-breasted, with average lapel width (neither the current "skinny" trend nor flamboyant 1970s-style wings), full canvas, smaller armholes, enough waist suppression to create a smooth hourglass shape without causing a crease at the button, flat front trousers. Some nice details would be functioning button holes, side vents, and pic stitching, but those are icing, right now the key issue is fit, followed closely by style. I seem merits in both English and Italian suits, but can't stand the shapeless American clichÃ
.
I would think MTM would be the avenue of choice, so I researched and read about Mr. Ned's and LS Men's Clothing, but the reviews seem mixed (and the styles seem to veer more American than European). Also, I really like to see a suit and try it on before committing to spending money; it doesn't have to be the SAME suit that I order, but something to indicate house style, details, construction quality, etc. Otherwise it's literally a shot in the dark, no? Is there any MTM place or tailor in NYC that can show samples of their work (i.e. a portfolio)?
The other issue is cost. I am willing to pay what I consider a decent amount for what will amount to my workhorse (if not my only, at least for the near term) suit, but I only have so much to spend, so my goal was around $1000. If enough boxes were checked, I might be persuaded to go a bit higher, maybe $1500... but it would be a stretch (sadly).
I suppose I should post some pictures of looks I find appealing. So I will go hunt some down and come back with those images.
I thank anyone in advance for their opinions. I realize I've set a lot of wants and desires above and then capped it with a somewhat restrictive budget, so I'm not asking for miracles, just ideas. Hit me with "˜em!
Regards,
"”G
Long time lurker, first time poster. I have a challenge for you style gurus out there; I'd like to replace my (baggy, 1999-era, boxy, pleated) 40L Hickey Freeman suit with something that, you know, FITS and looks a bit more continental. Unfortunately I am a size 38L, which as you can guess just makes RTW salespeople laugh. Specifically, I am 26 years old, 6'2.5" and 140 lbs, no joke. The "middle-aged American banker special" just looks silly on me.
I recently tried on a Canali 38R jacket and loved the chest, arm width, waist supression, lapel shape, shoulder style, drape, etc. Also saw some Corneliani suits that seemed nice. But of course the (R) meant that the jacket was slightly too short, the sleeves were *definitely* too short, and the pockets were a touch high. Probably other difficulties my untrained eye couldn't detect as well.
By contrast, you might think a 40L with some tailoring would do the trick. No dice. The jacket immediately went from looking like it was made for me, to looking like a wavy sack. The arms were way too full, and there was little likelihood of it being fixed by simply bringing in the middle. The only thing that was right was the sleeve and jacket length (ok, the shoulders still fit).
Thus far I have lucked out on blazers; a similarly slim gentleman ordered MTM Oxxford and walked away, leaving me to grab it later at a discount. And I have a 40L Armani blazer that similarly works, as it seems to be slimmer than the normal 40L (and it tailored well).
Ideally I want a charcoal suit, 2-button single-breasted, with average lapel width (neither the current "skinny" trend nor flamboyant 1970s-style wings), full canvas, smaller armholes, enough waist suppression to create a smooth hourglass shape without causing a crease at the button, flat front trousers. Some nice details would be functioning button holes, side vents, and pic stitching, but those are icing, right now the key issue is fit, followed closely by style. I seem merits in both English and Italian suits, but can't stand the shapeless American clichÃ
I would think MTM would be the avenue of choice, so I researched and read about Mr. Ned's and LS Men's Clothing, but the reviews seem mixed (and the styles seem to veer more American than European). Also, I really like to see a suit and try it on before committing to spending money; it doesn't have to be the SAME suit that I order, but something to indicate house style, details, construction quality, etc. Otherwise it's literally a shot in the dark, no? Is there any MTM place or tailor in NYC that can show samples of their work (i.e. a portfolio)?
The other issue is cost. I am willing to pay what I consider a decent amount for what will amount to my workhorse (if not my only, at least for the near term) suit, but I only have so much to spend, so my goal was around $1000. If enough boxes were checked, I might be persuaded to go a bit higher, maybe $1500... but it would be a stretch (sadly).
I suppose I should post some pictures of looks I find appealing. So I will go hunt some down and come back with those images.
I thank anyone in advance for their opinions. I realize I've set a lot of wants and desires above and then capped it with a somewhat restrictive budget, so I'm not asking for miracles, just ideas. Hit me with "˜em!
Regards,
"”G
