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3-roll-2 with an awkward button stance?

Despos

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familiar with the term bloom applied when prepping coffee for pour over brewing method and I've heard of blooming onions. I think you guys mean the fullness of the arc of the lapel as it rolls just above the button.
Lapel roll and "bloom" are first achieved by how the layers of canvass, sometimes silesia as a filler layer, and the cloth, body and lapel facing, are "rolled". Meaning one layer longer than the previous to create the roll. Pad stitching holds everything in place. Pad stitching alone will create an amount of roll but if the layering is done correctly before the pad stitching, well, I think this is the difference between poorly done and well done.
The layering of the cloth and canvass are primary because the pad stitching is reduced in this area. The stitches don't extend much past the roll because they would be seen where the lapel doesn't cover them. Because of this, the layering is the most important.
Don't know how many tailors pay attention to this. I learned a nice technique in my third apprenticeship and have continued to use it.
Thinking more about this. The tailor who showed me the layering technique is the only tailor I know that did this. There is a way to baste the facings in this area, that's a necessary part too.
 
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dieworkwear

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familiar with the term bloom applied when prepping coffee for pour over brewing method and I've heard of blooming onions. I think you guys mean the fullness of the arc of the lapel as it rolls just above the button.
Lapel roll and "bloom" are first achieved by how the layers of canvass, sometimes silesia as a filler layer, and the cloth, body and lapel facing, are "rolled". Meaning one layer longer than the previous to create the roll. Pad stitching holds everything in place. Pad stitching alone will create an amount of roll but if the layering is done well before the pad stitching, well, I think this is the difference between poorly done and well done.
The layering of the cloth and canvass are primary because the pad stitching is reduced in this area. The stitches don't extend much past the roll because they would be seen where the lapel doesn't cover them. Because of this, the layering is the most important.
Don't know how many tailors pay attention to this. I learned a nice technique in my third apprenticeship and have continued to use it.
Thanks for the explanation! Maybe this is what explains what I feel in the middle of my Solito lapels. It feels like there's something thicker inside, whereas my Steed lapels aren't as thick. I just assumed maybe Solito used a heavier canvas, but it sounds like this is the layering.
 

Despos

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I like how the lapels roll above the button on this top coat. When the coat is buttoned it looks fantastic. I like just a hint of belly to the lapel. No exaggeration.
The point of the roll is controlled by the collar.

Side story; this is Holland & Sherry Ripple Finish, Pure Cashmere. Spent big bucks on the cloth. Asked client how he liked the coat and has he worn it much. "Don't have that many occasions for it but I put it on when I walk the dog just so I can wear it"

What about making a 3 roll 2 or 3 roll 2.5 on a top coat? Cheers or jeers, opinions please?
IMG_3913.jpg
 
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classicalthunde

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I like how the lapels roll above the button on this top coat. When the coat is buttoned it looks fantastic. The point of the roll is controlled by the collar.

Side story; this is Holland & Sherry pure cashmere. Spent big bucks on the cloth. Asked client how he liked the coat and has he worn it much. " Don't have that many occasions for it but I put it on when I walk the dog just so I can wear it"

What about making a 3 roll 2 or 3 roll 2.5 on a top coat? Cheers or jeers, opinions please?
View attachment 1486363
The Armoury used to have one, I’m not as into it on a top coat as I am on sport coats but it’s not a deal breaker either...maybe if it had other causal details like slash pockets


8CE3155B-460A-4B25-BA91-B460442386F1.jpeg
 

Despos

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I think what you meant to say is that when the chips are down in Gotham City, Commissioner Gordon throws up the Despos signal. One of the two is the hero iGents deserve, and the other is a homicidal billionaire in a poly-blend cape.
I'm both of those persons you so aptly describe. Tailor by day, Crime fighter by night!

Despos Signal copy.jpg
 

FlyingHorker

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I realized my coat will likely only be worn on night time winter walks for me too for at least the next year or so.
 

Stylewords

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If you like 3-button jackets, get a 3 button. If you like 2, get 2. Don't be a mumbling indecisive with an extraneous buttonhole lying awkwardly on your lapel because you couldn't make up your mind.
 

dieworkwear

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If you like 3-button jackets, get a 3 button. If you like 2, get 2. Don't be a mumbling indecisive with an extraneous buttonhole lying awkwardly on your lapel because you couldn't make up your mind.
This will blow your mind, but a two-button jacket is actually between a one-button and a three.

View attachment 1486445
 

bdavro23

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I like how the lapels roll above the button on this top coat. When the coat is buttoned it looks fantastic. I like just a hint of belly to the lapel. No exaggeration.
The point of the roll is controlled by the collar.

Side story; this is Holland & Sherry Ripple Finish, Pure Cashmere. Spent big bucks on the cloth. Asked client how he liked the coat and has he worn it much. "Don't have that many occasions for it but I put it on when I walk the dog just so I can wear it"

What about making a 3 roll 2 or 3 roll 2.5 on a top coat? Cheers or jeers, opinions please?
View attachment 1486363
Side note on this coat: I love the height and shape of this lapel. I think the peaks are perfectly positioned and its a welcome change from peaks that point straight up. I would really love to see lapels like this incorporated on one of your 3 roll 2 jackets.

2nd side note: If I recall, this coat is actually a pure white cashmere. I just wanted to say how happy I am to live in a world where this coat actually exists in the wild and someone wheres it to walk their dog...
 

Bromley

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I agree that 2, and 2-roll-3 jackets are generally the best bet for most circumstances, but I'd like to say some nice things about the true 3-button jacket. With the exception of a couple of those vintage examples posted earlier (although they look terrible all buttoned up on mannequins), the 3-button jackets posted here have been the worst examples of the style. I also think 3-button jackets look bad standing still in a photograph but can look very good in motion, when it becomes obvious that the small lapel doesn't stay glued down in position.

I'll spare you my favorite Apparel Arts plates, but I will have to go back to the '30s, when 3-button jackets were made and worn like they're supposed to be made and worn. I also think you don't have to go full-on cosplay to look good in a jacket like this in 2020. To me, they look really anchored by that middle button, but also particularly floppy and casual. I think these jacket look sharp and comfortable, and my next bespoke jacket will be a Shetland shepherd's check made in this style.

CG 1.jpg
GC 2.jpg
GC 4.jpg
HB 1.png
GC 3.jpg
 

dieworkwear

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Only one I like is this one, and it looks more like a 3-roll-2.5



GC 4.jpg
 

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