3 Roll 2 jacket construction question...

[woolymammoth]

If a standard 2 button is just about completed at the last minute can the jacket be turned into a 3 roll 2? Is it a matter of just how the label is pressed or does a lapel for a 3 roll 2 have to be especially constructed from the start? Comments appreciated - thank you.

 

[Manton]

The tailors who have done this for me cut the fronts differently. Also, it's not so much about how the lapel is pressed, but the length and tension of the collar.

 

[Sterling Gillette]

Originally Posted by Manton

The tailors who have done this for me cut the fronts differently. Also, it's not so much about how the lapel is pressed, but the length and tension of the collar.

Couldn't have explained it better.

 

[meauounji]

Originally Posted by Manton

The tailors who have done this for me cut the fronts differently. Also, it's not so much about how the lapel is pressed, but the length and tension of the collar.

So... sorry for sounding uneducated here, but does that mean you can or can't turn it into a 3/2?

 

[Manton]

Originally Posted by meauounji

So... sorry for sounding uneducated here, but does that mean you can or can't turn it into a 3/2?

You can, maybe, but it won't look the same and chances are the pressing will not hold and it will roll back to where it was. That said, there are people who have done it and say they can't tell the difference. I would not be happy, personally, but I am fussy.

 

[jcc123]

I was wondering the same thing yesterday. I stopped by Mr. Ned's yesterday for a fitting and they showed me that the support in the lapels is different between a 3 button and 3/2 or 2.5 roll. There's a heavier strip of material that runs along the length of the lapel canvas. It determines where the lapel will naturally break vs. ironing. If you just iron it it will at some point want to return to its natural break so it's best to have it made correctly in the first place.

 

[Despos]

Originally Posted by jcc123

I was wondering the same thing yesterday. I stopped by Mr. Ned's yesterday for a fitting and they showed me that the support in the lapels is different between a 3 button and 3/2 or 2.5 roll. There's a heavier strip of material that runs along the length of the lapel canvas. It determines where the lapel will naturally break vs. ironing. If you just iron it it will at some point want to return to its natural break so it's best to have it made correctly in the first place.

Not true. The strip of cloth you refer to is the bridle and serves another purpose. The collar is what controls the roll of the lapel as Manton said in his post.
The OP wants to make a 3 roll 2 from a two button not a three button. Just add the upper button, the lapel is already rolled to the second button. The only difference on the front edge is the shape from the middle button up to the top button. The edge would be straight on a three button roll 2 and the belly curve would begin above the top button. The belly curve will start just above the middle button on a two button but well below the top button because it is originally shaped to be a 2 button.

 

[Aperipan]

Wouldn't the position of the pockets be a little off going from 3 to 3 roll 2? Is there a general rule as to the ideal position to place the pockets?

 

[Despos]

The pocket position is not an issue. It is related more to the jacket length than button position.

 

[woolymammoth]

Here's the reason I ask: I commissioned a 3 roll 2 - at the first fitting I noticed that there were only 2 buttons and the jacket was made as a high 2 button which is what I normally get - the tailor said not to worry he will just add the third button/buttonhole.

I have other high 2 button 3 roll 2 jackets and I remember them being made explicitly as 3 roll 2 so it does not seem correct to me that if the jacket was made as a 2 button in error that just adding the albeit non-usable third button makes it a true 3 roll 2...if this was the case then any 2 button jacket could be converted to a 3 roll 2 without compromise and I do not think that is true.

 

[Despos]

No, it is pretty much true. The only thing being the point where the belly curve on the lapel begins. Internally, the edge of the chest piece changes to match the breakline of the lapel.