3 Piece Patch?

[A Y]

Originally Posted by mafoofan

By default, Rubinacci does double stitching on odd jackets (who knew he was an iGent? He even likes patch pockets!), but there is no swelled edge. On my own odd jackets, I can barely tell the double stitching is there.

My LA-based Italian tailor's stuff is like that too: the edge is barely swelled if at all when he does the sportcoat stitching, as he refers to it. I asked him about swelled edges recently, and while I don't understand his explanation, it had something to do how the inner layers are arranged and sewn together, which seems prosaically tautological now that I type it out. He claims it is more of a feature of machine sewing, but I may not have understood him. I've been meaning to take a few pictures for the jacket pr0n thread, too.

F*cking iGent.

Is that like jumbo shrimp?

--Andre

 

[George]

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

3. BB-style machine stitched swelled lapel edge (Chipp bespoke):

- B

You need to explain this...

 

[voxsartoria]

Originally Posted by George

You need to explain this...

Hard to explain to a Briton. I'll let others try:

Ivy Style: Madras quickly leads us to what's known as the Go-To-Hell look. How much of that do you remember?

Bruce Boyer: I remember that stuff from the early '60s. I started to go to New York for shopping and my favorite store was Chipp. That's where I saw the patch madras and tweed, even before Brooks. Because Chipp is gone now, people tend to forget them. But they were probably the most interesting and most important and the best of Ivy League clothing stores. They were always a little more expensive, too. If Brooks introduced the shetland to this country, it was Chipp that promoted the wild colors like coral, hot pink and lemon yellow. I think I had a cable-knit shetland in bright raspberry in the '60s. Chipp also did all of the wonderful, wild tweeds: You'd get a tan herringbone with a lilac windowplane overplaid.


- B

 

[George]

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

Hard to explain to a Briton. I'll let others try:

Ivy Style: Madras quickly leads us to what's known as the Go-To-Hell look. How much of that do you remember?

Bruce Boyer: I remember that stuff from the early '60s. I started to go to New York for shopping and my favorite store was Chipp. That's where I saw the patch madras and tweed, even before Brooks. Because Chipp is gone now, people tend to forget them. But they were probably the most interesting and most important and the best of Ivy League clothing stores. They were always a little more expensive, too. If Brooks introduced the shetland to this country, it was Chipp that promoted the wild colors like coral, hot pink and lemon yellow. I think I had a cable-knit shetland in bright raspberry in the '60s. Chipp also did all of the wonderful, wild tweeds: You'd get a tan herringbone with a lilac windowplane overplaid.


- B

Interesting look. I like that devil may care attitude to dressing, we need more of it.

 

[Slewfoot]

Thanks for those comparison photos, Vox. Quite useful.

 

[voxsartoria]

Originally Posted by George

Interesting look. I like that devil may care attitude to dressing, we need more of it.

At the risk of making people suffer a core meltdown, here's the full getup that day with seersucker trousers:

Note that I've worn it to the office and the lack of socks.


- B

 

[itsstillmatt]

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

At the risk of making people suffer a core meltdown, here's the full getup that day with seersucker trousers:

Note that I've worn it to the office and the lack of socks.


- B
It's terribly ugly, but not one of the worst.

 

[Parker]

Originally Posted by Slewfoot

Thanks for those comparison photos, Vox. Quite useful.

+1 thanks.

 

[Film Noir Buff]

Originally Posted by George

Interesting look. I like that devil may care attitude to dressing, we need more of it.

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

At the risk of making people suffer a core meltdown, here's the full getup that day with seersucker trousers:

Note that I've worn it to the office and the lack of socks. - B
The devil would not only not care about this, he'd cross the street to avoid it.

 

[voxsartoria]

Originally Posted by iammatt

It's terribly ugly, but not one of the worst.

Originally Posted by Film Noir Buff

The devil would only not care about this, he'd cross the street to avoid it.

Thank you.


- B

 

[itsstillmatt]

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

Thank you.


- B
If you crumpled it up for a year or two, you could be NY Ranger.

 

[voxsartoria]

Originally Posted by iammatt

If you crumpled it up for a year or two, you could be NY Ranger.

I would need more sausages and relatives.

I could arrange the former, but the latter are all dead.


- B

 

[itsstillmatt]

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

I would need more sausages and relatives.

I could arrange the former, but the latter are all dead.


- B
I have a comment to make, but I will keep it to myself. It is quite funny, but perhaps a little too cruel.

 

[voxsartoria]

Originally Posted by iammatt

I have a comment to make, but I will keep it to myself. It is quite funny, but perhaps a little too cruel.

My PM box is only 99% full, so it is a rare opportunity for you.


- B

 

[Film Noir Buff]

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

Thank you. - B
Noblesse oblige, old sport. Btw, lack of socks with anything but deck shoes, canvas sneakers, bucks or soft, Norwegian penny loafers is a major league ewww. But, because you align yourself with sanitation workers, this gaffe is understandable.