2014 Clothing Insights and 2015 Clothing Plans

[archibaldleach]

As we near the end of 2014, it’s about time to start thinking about insights on clothing we’ve gained this year and our plans and ideas for next year. For your reference, threads from previous years are here:

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

http://www.styleforum.net/t/375521/2013-clothing-insights-2014-clothing-plans
http://www.styleforum.net/t/329703/2012-clothing-insights-2013-clothing-plans
http://www.styleforum.net/t/280006/2011-clothing-insights-2012-clothing-plans
http://www.styleforum.net/t/215261/2010-clothing-insights-2011-clothing-plans
http://www.styleforum.net/t/156690/2009-clothing-insights-2010-clothing-plans

As the starter of the thread for this year, I suppose it's my responsibility to go first, so here we go.

My 2014 Insights:

1) As much as I love suits, I prefer the flexibility that odd jackets and trousers provide (easier to wear without a tie, more combinations, no need to worry about trousers wearing out sooner than jackets). Towards the end of this past year, I’ve only been wearing a suit 3-4 times a month and generally only when the occasion calls for it (cocktail attire charity events, interviews and key business meetings, and maybe once a month for church if I feel like wearing something a bit more formal than odd jacket and trousers that Sunday).

2) Somewhat relating to my first point above, I have been wearing ties less often (maybe 2-2.5 times a week). I enjoy wearing tailored clothing and dressing nicely, but am starting to prefer being comparatively well-dressed by getting the details (fit / color combinations / etc.) right versus being more formal than most around me (which I probably already am by wearing a tie as often as I do and even wearing odd jacket sans tie looks).

3) I have enough clothes for the most part. I probably could use some more odd trousers, but as far as suits and odd jackets are concerned, I am sufficiently covered with respect to seasonality and variety. This is probably true for many of us on here.

4) Much of my prior preference for wearing tailored clothing was from a time where I had decent quality tailored clothing but could not say the same for my casual wardrobe (hence wanting to wear what I saw as my nicer things). I balked for awhile at $400 sweaters thinking I could get a MTM odd jacket for the cost of two sweaters. Now that I have enough odd jackets, I have been buying more sweaters and have enjoyed wearing them. Thank you to Greg and the NMWA team for facilitating this.

My 2015 Clothing Plans:

1) Starting in 2015, I am implementing a 1 in 1 out plus 1 plan with respect to tailored jackets (including suits) for my wardrobe. I have a few things that I would like to replace with something better fitting, high quality or more versatile and will get to that when it is fiscally prudent. I am allowing myself the plus 1 part because I know myself well enough to realize I will always see something I like that even if I don’t have anything I wish to part with and I think that growing my wardrobe by one odd jacket or one suit per year is a reasonable compromise.

2) Other than upgrading existing pieces or adding one odd jacket or suit in 2015, my focus will be on acquiring a few more odd trousers and getting some additional brown loafers / monks / derbys that will better fit with a more odd jacket centric tailored clothing wardrobe and also with sweaters and more casual items. Maybe a couple of additional sweaters as well.

3) I will continue to explore more casual looks and combinations, applying the lessons I’ve learned from classic menswear as appropriate. Despite this, I do not anticipate wearing jeans. Corduroys, moleskins, chinos and linen trousers will suffice for my casual needs.

4) I've lost about 2 inches of my waist since June, so I'll eventually want to add a bit more waist suppression to my jackets (change pattern for future orders / get alterations work done over time for present wardrobe). Once I'm officially at what I think is a target sustainable weight, this will probably take priority over acquisitions.

 

[JubeiSpiegel]

2014 is the year i finally began to see the end of my shoe collecting. I think i am almost done with the shoes i want to get. I did miss out on my goal to commission my first bespoke however, i think my shoe obsession got in the way.

For 2015, i am planing to limit my shoe buying to the 3 pairs of chukkas i need to finish off my rotation, and hold off on shoes for the rest of the year. I actually suspect i will be less active this coming year, as i am saving up for a car purchase one year from now. I feel like I have hit my SF apex., at least until i am in a position to get some bespoke pieces. We'll see...

 

[archibaldleach]

To hold myself accountable, here's what I posted last year:

2013 Insights
- It is worthwhile to invest in 2 (or maybe more) high quality sweaters for casual situations
- I still do not like button down collars on shirts
- Even though I like pink and lilac shirts, I tend to wear white shirts with suits and often prefer blue shirts with most of my odd jackets
- Less French cuffs and more barrel cuffs going forward

2014 Goals
- Lose a bit more weight and finalize odd trouser selection (summer ones by May, F/W ones by August)
- Find a good "OneShirt" fabric / get more blue dress shirts with barrel cuffs
- Other than necessary replacements, acquire no more than 2-3 odd jackets / suits per year

Greg and NMWA helped me to get to 7 high quality sweaters by the end of 2014 (5 are F/W and 2 are linen for S/S). I still don't like button-down collars on shirts. I have found a blue end-on-end fabric I like and have 4 shirts in it this far and plan to get more over time as I replace some of my existing shirts. Pink and lilac shirts in my collection will probably be phased out via attrition. Every shirt I have bought this year has been barrel cuff (except for one replacement white French cuff shirt). Weight loss was pretty successful. Odd trouser wardrobe is in better shape but still not final. I managed to acquire only 2 suits (RAF wool / linen and tan linen) and one odd jacket (blue Donegal) this year, reducing my acquisitions of tailored clothing. Overall I think I was pretty successful.

 

[jedwards]

Need a bespoke tuxedo ASAP.

Got invited to a very posh red carpet event recently and realised I don't own a tux. Although I was double booked anyway and had to decline, I did worry that if I were to have attended, there would have been no time to get one made up, fully bespoke.

It's a First World Problem admittedly but I did panic.

 

[Shpirt]

Goals for 2015

Realizing that a custom tailored suit worn with a barrel cuff shirt/shirt with button down collars does not look professional... 2014 - all my dress shirts have been changed to French Cuff and will stay that way. In 2015 - will need to replace a few more shirts, specifically need more Winchester style shirts.

I HATE narrow ties...HATE them...with a passion. No rhyme and reason for them.. no excuse. Not going to learn to love them in 2015 either, I hope.

I got rid of all my black dress slacks and now replacing them all with varying shades of greys and blues... thanks SF.

Finally own a pair of "skinny" jeans that I love - but that will probably be the end of that nonsense. Unless I go jean shopping again.

Pocket squares are at home in a suit/sport coat 99% of the time. Will need to get more linen ones, already got a lot of silks.


my cufflink collection has grown to 200 pairs...I needed to get a second cabinet made for them! I love vintage cufflinks...so there will be probably more of them in 2015.

 

[YRR92]

Insights:

- There are more things on heaven and earth than are accounted for in anybody's philosophy.

- Much as I like FC shirts, I prefer being able to dress down a shirt, so barrel cuffs it is.

- Anybody can wear any color, in the right shade. Similarly, there's such a thing as the "wrong" shade of blue for yours truly (too inky, or too bright).

- My greatest strength is that I don't dress ironically.

Plans for next year:

- Get rid of a ton of stuff.

- Get some plain stuff made (spread collar shirts in staple-ish colors, a sober suit or two, some staple pants).

- Use the resources I have on here to make smart choices as I add stuff to my wardrobe.

- Build up my wool odd trousers to the point I've built up my FW cottons.

- Creased linen trousers are god's gift to man during the summer time. At home with a navy blazer or a pincord jacket, but I can still feel well-dressed in a pair of 'em with a polo shirt.

 

[Pliny]

I feel i have the 'one cut' and the 'one style' down, so in suits and SC's it's all about cloth for me now. Been stockpiling, so 2015 will be about turning those liabilities into assets.

As to color (suits) if I had to I'd be happy wit just greys and a couple tans. Mid-grey works wit everything.

The 'green SC FC' made me see the awsmness of a dk green probably large herringbone SC- so one of those is a possibility in the near future.

My shoe collection is going to outlast me. I have a decent rotation, and some get out only a a few times a year .. It's something to bear in mind if you're in a shoe commissioning frenzy.

 

[in stitches]

2014 Insights

It appears that as 2014 closes I find myself wearing jacket and tie rigs less often, effectively really over the past number of months for some reason. It also appears that I am partial to suits when I do wear a jacket and tie, but that I wear a SC and no tie much more often than I wear a suit and tie. You do the math.

I learned that DBs really might be better for me than SBs.

I learned that PSs are in fact an option for me.

I learned that I will always want more. Like. Always.

2015 Clothing Plans

I really actually do feel like I have what I need. Im sure Ill cave and buy some ties, socks, and PS, and probably some OCBDs over the year, but as far as significant purchases I only have a few things in mind.

1. Arrival of a navy SC from Panta that is already in the works.

2. Two more pairs of shoes.

3. Maaaaaaybe commission a new brown SC.

 

[Fred G. Unn]

2014 Insights

Sartorial goal for the year was to re-make my sweater wardrobe as that was the last area to get any attention since I discovered this forum almost 4 years ago. I waited for the Spring-Summer sales and 2014 knit purchases included:
5 Inis Meain
4 Scott & Charters
3 Alan Paine
1 Drakes
1 SNS Herning
1 Hentsch Man
1 Our Legacy
Pretty much a complete overhaul except for a Margaret Howell, Folk, and Aran Crafts that I kept. The Inis Meains from East Dane ended up being so cheap at the end of their sale (sub-$100) I got my dad one for Xmas too.

Shoe purchasing slowed down, but quality went up with additions of Vass, Dinklelacker, several Alfred Sargents, Heschung, C&J, Alden, Diemme, Rider Boot Co, and shell AEs. Posted a September update here, and have added a few since then, including a navy Indy boot, C&J Malton, Diemme suede sneaker, AS Charlton in suede, and have the Carmina bal boot from Gentlemen's Footwear on the way, and also the shell sneaker from Epaulet.

I bought a lot of pocket squares (mostly Drakes). I love pocket squares!

Got a dark green tweed windowpane Caruso SC which fulfilled the "at least one funky (but tasteful!) non-blue tweed jacket" from Manton's list, LOL!

One of my 2015 goals was to get a new black tie rig, but that suddenly changed on Monday. NMLC in Philly had a fully canvassed, one button, peak lapel Caruso with basted sleeves that I had been eyeing since Sept. Well, it finally hit the 40% off rack, I had a 10% off email, and $80 credit so it only cost me $350 out of pocket. (As of Monday they still had a EU 50, 52L, and 56 too.)

2015 Plans

I'm not kidding myself, I know I'll buy more shoes. As there isn't as much I "need," I'm stressing quality over quantity at this point. Want list includes an austerity brogue, and a sleek boot like the C&J Tetbury in black. I could use a couple more pairs of trousers, but shirts, SCs, suits, and ties are all in pretty good shape right now.

Watches are next on the horizon. My wife now works for a company based in Basel so her watch will be next to be upgraded. (Probably a Rolex, she couldn't make up her mind in time for Xmas.) After that, I've really liked the stuff from NOMOS so something from them is on my 2015 wish list.

 

[Murlsquirl]

2014 Insights

- I spent waaaay too much money this year. Really, if you guys saw my W2 and NMWA order history, you would laugh.

- I really don't need anymore suits. I only have a handful of them, but that is more than enough.

- I learned about halfway through the year to pony up the extra dough and get what I really want. With clothing or anything else in life, never settle.

- I don't have enough casual shoes.

- Even in warm and sunny California, you need a decent rotation of light outerwear.

- I really like knitwear, but it takes up a ton of closet/dresser space!

2015 Plans

- I have a tobacco fresco blazersuit in the works and after that, a grey sharkskin and I'm done with suits for quite a while.

- Get a new navy hopsack SC.

- Get a couple more Eidos and/or Formosa SCs. Since I don't need to wear them, anything that tickles my fancy.

- Get a new pair of suede chukkas (Alden, Carmina, or Vass).

- Find and buy the suede wingtip blucher.

 

[YRR92]

2014 Insights

It appears that as 2014 closes I find myself wearing jacket and tie rigs less often, effectively really over the past number of months for some reason. It also appears that I am partial to suits when I do wear a jacket and tie, but that I wear a SC and no tie much more often than I wear a suit and tie. You do the math.

I learned that DBs really might be better for me than SBs.

I think your DB rigs are pretty great, but I also think your SBs are great. Would you ever consider a DB odd jacket (and if you had one, would you wear it sans tie)?

- Find and buy the suede wingtip blucher.

Would love to hear your specs for the definitive example of the breed.

 

[Murlsquirl]



Would love to hear your specs for the definitive example of the breed.

Well, here you go....it's all about the last IMO (Stitchy helped me realize this). I want something you can pretty much wear with everything (obviously there are limitations). Vass P2, Alden Barrie, EG 202 & 505, or Carmina Oscar would all fit the bill. I want a Dainte sole so it will last and I don't care about the weather I wear it in. I think Carmina's tobacco suede is the perfect color...snuff is too light and chocolate too dark. Some modest brouging and that about does it.

Not the suede wingtip blucher for everyone, but it's what I want.

The holidays are boring...I've been sitting around drinking beer all day, which I why I had time to type all of this.

 

[The Noodles]

2014 Insight
Buy what fits best.
Don't rely on the size tag alone.
Try on different sizes.
Buy what fits best.

2015 Plan
Get tailoring on 2014 purchases!
Venture into odd jackets/trousers.

 

[archibaldleach]



2014 Insight
Buy what fits best.
Don't rely on the size tag alone.
Try on different sizes.
Buy what fits best.

2015 Plan
Get tailoring on 2014 purchases!
Venture into odd jackets/trousers and keep Noodles thread alive and full of picnic attacks.

Fixed. Also, isn't your suit collection in dire straights (in quantity at least)?

 

[Monkeyface]

2014 insights:

- Quantity over quality. I've sold about 10 suitsupply suits and jackets and bought about 5 perfectly fitting fully canvassed suits and jackets instead.
- Don't go shopping, whether that be offline or online, without a plan.
- Make a budget at the beginning of the year, and stick to it. If it runs out before the year is over, the only way you can obtain something new is by selling something of equal value.
- Don't but into any SF hypes, whether that be the latest artisan tie maker, traveling tailor, or vendor. More likely than not it'll end up in money lost and disappointment all around. It does result in some entertaining threads though.
- I like the relaxed ivy look for when I'm wearing odd jackets and other casual outfits, but the Neapolitan look for when I'm wearing suits. Luckily, these two overlap.

2015 plans:
- Finish making my 5 year wardrobe plan. No need to buy everything all at once.
- Continue being frugal and making sensible purchases.