2013 Kopping Retrospective / 2014 Kopping Plans

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by cyc wid it, Dec 30, 2013.

  1. Parker

    Parker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    these are just the highlights in a year of way too much kopping.
    I think it was the year I really fell for Dries Van Noten -- a cruelly expensive habit.
    my 2014 plan is: buy less stuff in general. focus on nice boots and shoes.

    best and most stylistically focused kop
    Dries cotton and wool bombers
    Dries cotton and wool field jackets
    TOJ lambskin A2
    Vass boots

    most sastifying kop
    leather jacket for ms parker

    best boring but highly useful kop
    uniqlo tees and cotton blazer
    SNS stark

    most underwhelming kop
    MMM gat

    most irrational but highly enjoyable kop
    Dries Gijs Frieling psychedelic suit
    George Cox creepers
    Junya x Levis tweed patchwork jeans (may have been 2012)

    epic fail kop
    Christophe Lemaire asymmetric coat
    pretty much every shoe ordered online - farrrgggk

    the one that got away kop
    LBM hopsack coat from NoMan

    experimental kop / possible harbinger of future kopping
    Engineered Garments
     
    Last edited: Jan 2, 2014


  2. ffatt

    ffatt Senior member

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    Those options sound better to me. The sneaker soles or whatever they put on Serra are useless for grip and wear out fast. Hobo x Diemme collab looks a lot like Virgils to me. Really plain design so hard to me pick up on their uniqueness, but its definitely a personal preference thing. I would only ever consider getting the visvim fbt on ebay for a slightly used one because that has no alternative anywhere that I could find. The suede leathers used are amazing.
     


  3. cyc wid it

    cyc wid it Senior member

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    I live in a pretty moderate climate so I don't really need something for trudging through snow or whatever. For me, the Vibram soles are just comfortable and a stylistic thing. A lot of the boots use interesting materials and their proportions are really nice. Even the plain suede ones are just well executed. US retail is obviously hefty, but a bit of patience can get you more reasonable pricing (except for the exclusives/rarer models).
     
    Last edited: Jan 2, 2014


  4. El Argentino

    El Argentino Senior member

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    Thanks for the thread @cyc wid it. I made one of these last year and was meaning to get another one going but thought there wouldn't be enough interest. This year, I eliminated the remnants of my pre-SF wardrobe and assembled a decent foundation of basics for both my work and casual wardrobes. I discovered Epaulet and Wolf vs. Goat both fit my aesthetic well, and I stuck mainly to those brands.

    El Argentino's 2013 In Review:

    Above Expectations:

    [​IMG]

    Epaulet Ultraviolet/Charcoal Flannel - Eyed this for months since it initially dropped, but wasn't sure flannel was my thing. Just received it on the 31st of December and it is everything I'd wanted and more. Fantastic fabric, perfect shirt cut, and a very versatile color palette that compliments a large majority of my closet. Wearing it with jeans, it looks grey, while wearing it with grey pants brings out the blue. Love it. Favorite shirt in my wardrobe at this point.

    [​IMG]

    GAP Japanese Selvage, Straight Fit - Pardon the horrible marketing photo, but having done the rounds in multiple denim brands, I wholeheartedly admit that I've found my favorite denim yet in Gap's "Straight" fit. Higher rise, decent thigh, smallish leg opening. I've received more compliments while wearing this jean than my Momotaros, PBJs, and any other SF-approved denim that I haven't flipped for sizing's sake. Plus, for only about $40, I'll never spring for $300+ denim again. Spectacular dark horse of the year.

    [​IMG]

    Charles Tyrwhitt, Extra-Slim Fit Dress Shirts - Rambo, of all people, turned me on to this brand earlier this year by posting a link to a private sale CT was having with shirts running 29.50 a piece for any new customers. I bought four or so, needing to pad the shirt rotation for work. Cannot complain in the least for the price. Really good fit for me, have held up well, and I personally love the beefy collars. Wouldn't imagine paying retail for them, but for the price they came up big time.

    Met Expectations:

    [​IMG]

    Wolf vs. Goat Before Dinner Overdyes - Got a few of these from Mauro over the course of the year through various means; purchases, winning contests, from friends, etc. These are my perfect casual shirt. The Before Dinner cut is slim through the waist, but still offers sufficient room in the shoulders and chest. Plus, I love the thickness and weight of the overdye fabrics used for this run of shirts; ended up with Plum, Lavender, Cotton Candy, Wine, and Pine Green. Have yet to obtain the "Kick Ass Blue" but may just have to round out the collection. Biggest regret of the year was not making off with the one pictured above in Slate.

    [​IMG]

    Alden x Epaulet Natural CXL Longwing - I remember seeing these online in Fall '12 and going into absolute lust-mode. Was able to work a few extra hours to assemble funds and swung these in February or so and haven't looked back. The natural CXL ages amazingly, and the Leydon last is sleeker than the Barrie. No complaints whatsoever.

    [​IMG]

    Epaulet Rivet Chinos - NYI and his fits first sparked my interest in these pants. The fit always looked amazing - slim, but not too tight anywhere. Ordered a few pairs last year (2012) and that trend continued through '13. Have never been let down. This year, got a few in 7oz cotton which work fantastically for summer, and then a few in Wool for fall. Every pair has their own selling points, but I just love the fit. My go-to casual pants. If you haven't gotten yourself a pair yet, please do.


    Below Expectations:

    [​IMG]

    Epaulet x Carmina Salinger Double Monks - Feels really awkward to put these here, because I do love my pair so much. But in retrospect, based on how I hyped myself up for these they just weren't 100% satisfying. These were my other big purchase of the year (along with the NatCXL LWB) - again, requiring a few extra hours put in at work to work room in the budget. Was finally able to swing them in mid-summer after having set my sights on them almost a year earlier. Fit great, feel great, and I love wearing them, but inasmuch as I expected a "perfect" shoe for my money, I psyched myself out pouring over the pair looking for any flaws whatsoever - and that experience leaves a bad taste in my mouth. In actuality, they were fine, and have held up great, but that level of microscopic inspection and finnicking over a purchase soured the experience for me.

    -

    Other than that, got into thrifting and found a few blazers and work-appropriate items that I've since gotten tailored and can only love. This year, going to find a pair of black, calfskin, 2-eyelet chukka boots, delve more into work trousers (Epaulet Rudy cut, probably), and maybe focus on a cool piece of outerwear (love that Barbour Commander above, based on the Skyfall Tokito jacket, no doubt).

    It was a good year, generally.
     
    Last edited: Jan 2, 2014


  5. Lorcan7

    Lorcan7 Senior member

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    2013 was the year I went big with Engineered Garments I guess. Kopped more stuff than I intended but a lot of it was good.

    Best Kops:

    EG wool-denim railroader jacket - kinda wasn't expecting this to work out but it really did. Love the fabric.
    EG denim western shirt - my favorite shirt, probably deserving a contentedness thread post in 2014.
    EG C1 vest - more versatile than I imagined, awesome design/construction.

    Epic fail:

    Needles arrow jacket - great jacket but too small and sleeves too short on me [​IMG]. Also happened to be a proxying disaster (got sent different version, which I shipped back to japan for exchange).

    What the hell was I thinking kop:

    Geller shorts - got them in end-of-season sales when British summer had already been and gone. Don't think a mild drop-crotch is really my style [​IMG]. Comfy around the house though.

    Jury still out:

    EG button shawl navy windowpane - haven't worn it as much as I thought I would, think the heavy cotton plaid version might have been more wearable.

    The one that got away:

    Junya blazers from F/W13 - I was in love when I tried them on at DSM but couldn't justify pricetag.


    2014 planned kops

    moar EG, from SS14:

    lafayette shirt - large floral print
    work shirt - herringbone stripe
    western shirt - chambray patchwork
    19th c. button down - ribbon stripe
    duster coat - waiting to see all available materials/colours
    painter pants - "
    workaday jeans - natural denim
    andover or baker jacket
    another vest

    Some F/W pieces too, no doubt.

    Sunglasses - Garrett Leight or Moscot.

    Sneakers - Visvim, maybe some Vans too.

    Belt

    Try something different (Kapital, Dries, Junya, Haversack, ???)
     


  6. akatsuki

    akatsuki Senior member

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    So Viberg Scouts or Oak Street Trench?
     


  7. mbaum

    mbaum Senior member

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    2013 was the year were I completely replaced my entire wardrobe with a focus on basics. And it was the year I discovered Styleforum. Big thank you, as you guys have been a great source and inspiration. And, damn you, you got me into EG.

    The basics - I am a simple guy:
    • UNIS/ Taylor Stitch/ Leftfield chinos
    • SNS Stark (Yes, I wear them in LA)
    • General Quarter shirts
    • Apolis chambray blazers (They are my neighbors in LA)
    • Norse Project stuff
    • Wolverine, Alden boots, a few Alden LWBs

    EG … and then some:
    • SS13 Penn
    • Flannel Lafayette
    • Herringbone Baker from AW10?
    • Fatigue pants
    • Most wear: SS13 Beach Jacket
    • Most beautiful: Reversible vest, grey wool and b/w flower lining

    Favorite finds:
    • Officine Generale slubby shirts
    • Anonymous Ism socks
    • orSlow wool CPO
    • Arpenteur and French Trotters blazers
    • Strike Gold slubby selvedge
    • New Balance x Norse

    Disappointments:
    • EG work shirt/ blue heather cotton. so beautiful and just won't fit. Buy it from me
    • Our Legacy shirts
    • EG Herringbone Bedford
    • Barena - Fantastic but nothing fits

    2014 focus - Buy less, get into new stuff:
    • Visvim
    • Barena (Hope)
    • More EG (Dots and colors), Kolor, Kapital, maybe, just maybe, some Schneider
    • MTM suits and shirts
    • 1965 Alfa Sprint Speciale

    Happy New Year!

    Mike
     
    Last edited: Jan 4, 2014


  8. Hirsh

    Hirsh Senior member

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    I made a trillion mistakes in 2013, costing me thousands of £££, but my best, although tear wateringly expensive were my mid black box ankle boots [ATTACHMENT=8118]image.jpg (1,052k. jpg file)[/ATTACHMENT]midnight navy made to measure biker jacket boots[ATTACHMENT=8117]image.jpg (720k. jpg file)[/ATTACHMENT]

    Hopefully I'll start my 2014 shopping today, and make less mistakes than last year - I'm still paying the bills from last years disasters!!

    Good idea for a thread:)
     


  9. JezeC

    JezeC Senior member

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    Quote:care to explain the diaster so SF posters can avoid such purchases?
     


  10. El Argentino

    El Argentino Senior member

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    Bump, in hope the thread gets a bit more traffic and participation
     


  11. Hirsh

    Hirsh Senior member

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    Don't ask.....

    Have just ordered 2 Italian shirts and hope to buy a diamond ring next week.,

    Bump!:)
     


  12. FlyingMonkey

    FlyingMonkey Senior member

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    2013 was first of all a year of shirts for me - whether some very nice 2nd hand Ervel and Folk courtesy of B&S here, or Sugarcane and Burgus (house brand of Hinoya denim in Tokyo), or Maker's Shirt (Kamakura). Second, it was as year of Nigel Cabourn and EG - got myself several nice pieces (Andover jacket, wool pants etc.) all second-hand either from B&S or from the Rugged Museum in Tokyo. I also enjoyed breaking out the more flowy modern updates of traditional Japanese piece from Sou-Sou to help me survive in the hot Tokyo summer. Edit: oh, and Chup socks. They're the best.

    In 2014, I've already fulfilled one goal by getting a nice pair of black workboots from Slow Wear Lion. I will make sure I get a couple of pairs of decent jeans (Sugarcane, ONI or Momotaro are the ones I like most), some interesting sneaks and something insane from Kapital - I am looking at some patched long coats - and/or ts(s) before I leave Japan in April. Afterwards, I'll be concentrating more on CM for a while (and mainly on bespoke commissions - although one of these will be for a very much non-CM asymmetric tweed jacket...). I've got more than enough SW&D stuff for my needs and I'm quite happy. I will also be clearing out a lot of older, lower-quality stuff, both SW&D and CM.
     
    Last edited: Jan 9, 2014


  13. Hirsh

    Hirsh Senior member

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    So you've started shopping as well!

    I've ordered 2 shirts but no idea when they'll arrive as both are bespoke, and I'm desperately fighting an urge for new jeans!
    Helps that I'm so small that not many fit me, but where there's a will there's a way!
    I always go over my budget anyway!
     


  14. Foxhound

    Foxhound Senior member

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    Great thread. Here's my post.

    2013 was the year I first got really into fashion/style/whatever. I first started to care somewhat about my style midway through 2012 which was my final year of high school after getting dumped. I bought a few random things of Asos but that's about it. I think this was my first fit pick. My biggest and best purchase of 2012 was in September was when I bought my indigo nudie jeans.
    [​IMG]

    This is pretty much as far as I went through 2012. I bought a pair of Meermin's a size and a half two big too, but dealt with it and wore them to my end of year valedictory.

    Then 2013 rolled around, I started my course in Computer Science, and more relevant to this thread, I started my interest in clothes. I bought a few shirts on the Mr Porter sale. I wore this APC shirt quite a bit.

    [​IMG]

    Over the next few months I was heavily influence by Classic menswear, and started dressing far to old at Uni and just in general, looked like a dickhead to be honest. I purchased a bunch of Epaulet chinos, some OCBDs and gingham's and wore them everywhere. I also purchased some Grenson Dylans in tan, Black Grenson Sids, Brown Suede Herring brogues.
    One GREAT purchase, but that I am getting rid of was my Apolis Wool Chore Coat, which I wore with this. Still a KILLER coat.
    [​IMG]

    But boy did I look like a dickhead. Felt great at the time, wish I could go back and bitch slap some sense into my self though. The main reason I wore outfits like that was mainly due to wanting to separate myself from what I had known kids my age to wear, snap backs etc. Google swag and I'm sure you'll see what I mean. I am living at home which meant I had a huge disposable income from working heaps and having literally zero bills. This was a bad thing, as I bought a lot of crap and dressed completely the wrong way. The one good thing that did come of this was that in April, I purchase a TOJ 0. It rolled around in September. I was so happy with it, and still love it. This is where my mindset started to change, and I started to adopt a more casual approach, wearing tshirts and black chinos with sneakers etc. I also purchased some common projects along the way, that in effort to wear more of them, also forced me to wear more casual outfits. I always thought looking good and doing casual would be impossible, but I'm happy I've been proven wrong. I sold a lot of things, and am still in the process of getting rid of things.

    At around the start of October, I finally had a realisation that I was being a dickhead, and decided to sell most of my stuff. I did though, order a suit from my local MTM guy, Oscar Hunt, as I have my brothers wedding coming up in a weeks time actually. That was possibly my best purchase of the year. In November I also ordered a TOJ MA-1 and Minimalist Double Rider. Quite excited for those two.

    Another major problem I faced this year was buying my shoes online in the wrong size. I bit the bullet, saved my pennies and went to Henry Bucks, my local menswear store and shelled out top dollar for a pair of Church Double Monks, which will go great with my suit, and have helped me get the right size for other purchases.

    Over the last few months my wardrobe has become much more coherent. But over the last few weeks I have decided to minimalise a lot of my things down and get rid of the clothes I barely wear. The only things I wish to buy is a new backpack for uni as I have a light brown one which clashes with my mainly black and white clothing, a pair of Chelsea boots and a reigning champ crew. Then I plan on having a no purchase period for 3 - 4 months, if of which I can do, I will get a Patch Pocket charcoal Harris Tweed blazer through Oscar Hunt, inspired by Margaret Howell's blazers.

    These are the kind of outfits I generally wear today.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]

    Of 2013, I learnt three very important lessons.

    1. Take things slow, I could have spent the money I wasted on a lovely overseas holiday or a decent chunk of savings.
    2. Dress your fucking age and don't be an idiot.
    3. Go MTM for things that you can. Get a tailor to make you a perfectly fitted shirt and chinos, then send them to luxire to copy. Not only is this often cheaper than buying OTR, with the perfect fit, you can also have all the options you want, like button adjusters on your trousers, which I love. Gosh I love luxire.

    My goal for my wardrobe is it do have a very minimalist wardrobe, and besides basics such as pants and tshirts, is too have EVERY piece in it, a piece that I love 100%, almost a wardrobe full of grails.

    Thankyou very much for taking the time to read my post.
     


  15. El Argentino

    El Argentino Senior member

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    Great post and transformation, [@]Foxhound[@]
     


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