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2013 Kopping Retrospective / 2014 Kopping Plans

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by cyc wid it, Dec 30, 2013.

  1. cyc wid it

    cyc wid it Senior member

    Messages:
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    Bay Area, CA
    How did everyone fare this year? Best buys? Worst buys? Pieces that eluded you? What you plan to buy for the next year?

    We can revisit this at the end of the year and see how disciplined everyone was / which items surprised or disappointed / etc. Yes, I'm aware not all collections are fully detailed for the year at the moment, but it seems like a good time to make the thread.

    2013:

    • Surprisingly good: Aspesi quilted blazer: I throw this thing on all the time for both casual and business casual situations. Not overly padded, but still warm and comfortable. Received maybe the first or second week of this year.
    • As cool as expected: Stephan Schneider blackwatch cotton bomber: B&S swap that worked out great, comfortable with some subtle details, an older piece I never noticed really from lookbooks
    • Forum hype pickup: Inverallan 6A crolly MTO: I went with a single donegal for this one as I figured it will get more wear out here being lighter, it's significantly lighter than my double donegal loden 6A, worth I think - pity they stopped
    • Best beater buy: Uniqlo MA-1: it's no ToJ/BR/KVA/Rick but I treat it like a hoodie and it does the trick, for $50 retail I can't complain
    • The one that got away: VISVIM Indigo Kano: the sizing was just slightly off, but the fabric was really cool and it helped me understand why some people beast VISVIM so hard
    • Close miss: SS paraffin jacket: I pre-ordered the navy on navy 100% wool version and it just didn't fit my body quite right, maybe I needed to give it time to settle down but I played it safe and returned
    • The jury is still out: Robert Geller hooded bombers: borderline too small I think, but I can get away with just wearing over a single layer in my climate - might end up selling these
    • Still going strong: MMM black scored side zips + Loake jodhpurs + MMM lamb 5-zip: 2012 buys that have been great, I finally topy'ed both of these and they're my goto boots, the MMM were much maligned due to the texture but I think it's a case of bad shop pics, I paid less than $300 for each pair and they've been worth every penny and then some. The matte 5-zip was hated on quite a bit too, but it fits me as well as RTW can be expected to and I didn't expect super robust and thick construction so it didn't disappoint necessarily in that regard.

    Overall, I probably experimented more thoughtfully this year, but I can't say I've really "figured" out my stride. I was pretty lucky I guess in that I didn't really pick up anything that I felt was a total fail (I'm not counting sizing issues), but maybe that's because I was a bit less impulsive? Who knows - I certainly spent my fair share of money and took a hit on a few things, but I think I did it somewhat more carefully (if that makes any sense). I also started posting fit pics, which I think has helped out. Even when I don't receive direct feedback, I think about my fits a bit more.

    2014:

    I'm probably going to focus more on proper CM stuff this year and I won't really list it here as it's probably not relevant for most readers. Here are some of my SW&D expectations:

    • A couple Schneider items from each season
    • VISVIM Virgil boots *eta* or maybe some Carpe back/sidezips or their Jun equivalents
    • Buttero side zips

    I'm at a point where I think my workweek business casual stuff is more than satisfied, so I'll hopefully be able to avoid "boring" chino/OCBD type purchases. I think I'll try and pare down/evaluate what I currently own while taking a small number of chances on new things. What is it about the pieces I wear most that I enjoy? Am I really a single aesthetic type of person? Who knows. Anyway, some possibilities include Margaret Howell and SEH Kelly.
     
    Last edited: Jan 2, 2014
    9 people like this.
  2. Zeemon

    Zeemon Senior member

    Messages:
    1,000
    Joined:
    Sep 15, 2010
    Location:
    Germany
    best buys:
    Undercover Joy Division FW09 Hoodie
    SS13: DVN shorts and vest

    close miss: Moncler GB SS12 shorts, too slim

    best beater buy: HUGO (Boss) hoodie

    still going strong: Raf SS10 pants, SS11 Rafstros and Velcro highs, COS FW11 wool jacket

    bad purchases:
    Pigalle sweatpants (they are printed fruit of the loom sweatpants)

    [​IMG]

    for 2014: there is some stuff on sale at mrporter right now which i might get when it hits 70% in 1-2 weeks
     
    Last edited: Dec 31, 2013
  3. mike868y

    mike868y Senior member

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    Location:
    boston
    2013 was a good year, my best yet, I'd say.

    Best purchases: almost everything. from the EG jackets and (especially) pants to wardrobe filling uniqlo flannels and woolovers knits, i've been happy with just about everything i've bought and I think I've really found what works for me.

    Looking forward, I want to continue to round out my pant selection. 2-3 pairs of lighter weight spring/summer pants (looking at the west is dead from blueowl, they look super nice, but are rarely talked about on here), another pair of nice winter weight pants, and a new pair of raw denim (PBJ XX-013). Also want to improve my shirting selection. My uniqlo OCBDs are way too big now. Looking to upgrade to something nicer. Also want to pick up a spring EG bedford and a pair of brown leather derbies. the best part is almost all this stuff will be work appropriate at my new job. :slayer:
     
    Last edited: Dec 31, 2013
    3 people like this.
  4. Superb0bo

    Superb0bo Senior member

    Messages:
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    Location:
    Z├╝rich/Stockholm
    this year took a surprising turn, when I realised I miss wearing black stuff like back in the day.
    Spent the autumn adding black or grey versions of some personal staples, like cords, moleskin pants, shirts etc.

    Best :

    OL wool coat at 50%off last winter
    harris tweed sportscoat
    Blundstone 510 boots, comfy and good looking
    levis 501 faded black
    lands end black tailored cords, which I realize sounds incredibly lame, but they are surprisingly nice.

    worst:

    all the shoes that didnt fit, like the Alfred sargent boots...


    next year:
    New shoes, no clue.
    Black cord sports coat?

    Going to switch out some of all the blue ocbds against grey/black/white shirts
     
  5. Caveat

    Caveat Senior member

    Messages:
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    Jan 31, 2009
    I'm so tired of buying things that don't work out and having to flip them. My resolution for 2014 is not to buy anything that doesn't fit one of these criteria:

    - Returnable
    - In high demand on the secondary market
    - Very very likely to work out given my experience with the brand
    - Such a good deal that it doesn't matter


    I've already passed on a couple of items this sale season that I really wanted because of this new rule.

    Best purchases from 2013:

    Frank Leder dogtooth cardigan
    [​IMG]
    Schneider Bee cardigan (both colors!) and trench
    [​IMG]
    Nigel Cabourn zip up
    [​IMG]
    Dries blazer
    [​IMG]
    Dana Lee waffle leisure jacket
    [​IMG]
    Boots: Brown guidis and these gorgeous and surprisingly versatile Anns:
    [​IMG]
    KKA pindot blazer, Zam scarf, frans boone x santaniello chinos

    Worst purchase:
    Two impeccable Frank Leder buttoned shirts in perfect colors that I bought at full retail, only to find out when I finally got my hands on them that they're too small.
    Marni sweater I got scammed on from the marketplace. Seller said it was perfect and I didn't fully inspect it until I wore it months later and it was stretched to hell.
     
    Last edited: Jan 10, 2014
    2 people like this.
  6. akatsuki

    akatsuki Senior member

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    Location:
    Brooklyn, SF, Tokyo
    This year is a consolidation and refinement year:

    Get rid of stuff:
    • Replace the Incarnation jacket I have for sale with one size up so I actually wear it more often
    • Sell my Parajumpers Kodiak and the other jackets I am not using that much
    • Clear out the tie and pocket square collection a bit
    • Clear out the shoe closet a bit

    On the to-buy list:
    • Visvim Serra boots
    • Visvim 20L backpack
    • More custom stuff - shirts and suits and etc.
    • a nice dress watch - maybe a Journe or something else a bit exotic
     
  7. click here

    click here Senior member

    Messages:
    813
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    Crap year for me!
    Bought a lot of clothing that didn't fit including a Nanamica jacket, Inverallan cardigan and Nigel Cabourn sweater that were a size too large. Most disappointing is my TOJ CWU-45 which which took 6 months to arrive and ended up 2 inches too short and a little baggy.
    Only good purchases were pretty basic items like Kamakura shirts, Sunspel Polo and Wolverine Boots.
     
    Last edited: Dec 31, 2013
  8. ffatt

    ffatt Senior member

    Messages:
    502
    Joined:
    Jul 30, 2009
    



    Whats with the Visvim footwear? Better options for boots at lower price. Can't you kop 2 pairs of either Trickers, White's or Viberg for one of those. Can still get the useless white wedge sole on those too.
     
    Last edited: Jan 1, 2014
  9. cyc wid it

    cyc wid it Senior member

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    Only Trickers I like are the Junya collabo and I already own Vibergs. They're still not the same.
     
    Last edited: Jan 1, 2014
  10. CasvalRD

    CasvalRD Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Nov 17, 2012
    Location:
    Toronto, Canada
    Just ordered a Barbour Commander in Navy from END. It's more suitable for me than the olive one.
    [​IMG]
     
  11. ffatt

    ffatt Senior member

    Messages:
    502
    Joined:
    Jul 30, 2009
    

    But what is it about Visvim that appeals to you? I don't find anything about the construction or aesthetics that justifies the extra premium on prices which seem to go up randomly whenever Hiroki is in the mood.
     
  12. akatsuki

    akatsuki Senior member

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    Location:
    Brooklyn, SF, Tokyo
    

    I may end up doing Viberg Scout's instead of Virgils and Danner Mountain Lights instead of Serra's.

    I do think the Virgils have the right proportions, but am not opposed to doing something different.

    Visvim 20L is a bit different in that the aesthetics are spot on, and the nearest competitor, the Lexdray Boulder got panned by Carryology.
     
  13. slide13

    slide13 Senior member

    Messages:
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    Joined:
    Aug 9, 2007
    Location:
    Waterloo, WI
    Best Buys:

    Alden x Context Roy boots
    Red Wing 8146 boots (these were the biggest surprise, bought them for winter beaters and turns out I just love them)
    Needles denim workshirt (wear this pretty much all weekend every weekend since I picked it up from Nepenthes when I was in NYC over Thanksgiving, current favorite shirt)



    I didn't really have many bad buys, I didn't buy a whole lot this past year and most of what I did buy has worked out pretty well. I'm sure there are a few things that I bought and have already gotten rid of that I don't recall. If I had to name a worst buy it would be my EG herringbone wool Bedford....not because I don't like it, I really do, but it went from not cold enough to wear it much to being cold enough that I needed something heavier so I just haven't worn it nearly enough to justify the cost.

    2013 has been a year of getting rid of a lot of the stuff that seemed like I good idea that I just never wore. To be honest I'm pretty simple in what I actually wear, give me a pair of boots, some jeans, and an oxford or chambray shirt and that will pretty much cover it. So I've sold off a lot of the stuff in my closet that just wasn't getting used and it's been great. I like the simplicity. Now I really focus on things I know I will wear and on keeping my wardrobe to a reasonable size. Still have some stuff to sell, but getting close. I've kept my sales season buying in check very well so far, couple of small items on deep discount were picked up over these past couple weeks but both were items I've been eyeing for months that finally got to a point where I couldn't pass up on them any longer.

    2014 is going to be very minimal in my buying. I don't need anymore shirts at this point. I may pick up a pair of jeans and a new jacket for the mid-weather....either a M65 or an International style probably, and that is about it I hope. I just don't feel like I need anything these days and am not even looking at much lately. Feels good and I'm just really enjoying the stuff I have.
     
  14. dwyhajlo

    dwyhajlo Senior member

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    Best kops this year were Sunspel underwear and Falke socks.
     
  15. ipractice

    ipractice Senior member

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    First year having a full time job out of college, so I copped more than ever. Learned very quickly that with great money comes great amounts of excessive copping. Had to return/sell/exchange a shit ton of stuff, and in retrospect purchased way more than was necessary (eg two expensive pieces which fulfilled the same role in my wardrobe, instead of focusing on other areas). But I still managed to save money (miraculously), and moving forward into 2014 have decided to make much more concise choices.

    Best purchases:
    Black Acne max cashes - I beat the shit out of these jeans, and probably wear them 4/7 days of the week. They fade really well and the fit is perfect - skinny, but not awkwardly so. I use to wear hex cashes which were way too skinny, after trying max cashes I've found my staple pair of black denim.

    Arc'teryx Veilance align jacket - Warm enough to wear a tee under, but at the same time light enough to put on an extra layer if necessary. The construction is phenomonal. Never understood why people use to pay so much for tech wear, but this purchased alone has introduced me into the genre and is already making me lust after ACRONYM/Aithor Thorp aesthetics. Definitely an eye opening piece and possibly a game changer for me.

    Robert Geller Hooded Bomber - Easily my most worn jacket of winter. So light for the amount of insulation it packs, keeps me very warm and looks really cool. To be fair, it was previously one of my grail pieces (for awhile was very hard to find before a lot of them started popping up out of nowhere), and even though I paid way more than i could have, it's one of the few purchases I would of paid retail for.

    Good buys, not enough wear:

    Cdiem S23m - I was so excited for my first pair of baller boots. Don't get me wrong, they're really, really cool, but I had the idea that I would be wearing them all the time and as beaters. Realistically, annoying to put on, and they ended up being a little taller than I would have liked. Definitely a piece that I appreciate but may have to sell and purchase a different model which fits my needs more.

    TOJ wool MA-1 - This was easily my favorite purchase of the year when I got it, but sizing was difficult and it turned out tighter than I had hoped. It also holds its shape REALLY well (a little too well?) and I can't seem to get the relaxed/casual fit that I hoped the jacket would be useful for. Suiting wool also takes away from a casual look somewhat. Not trying to blame the piece itself though, more of the fault of my expectations.

    Missed purchases, and moving forward into 2014:

    Rick Dunks - I tried, and I tried very hard. Finding RO dunks in a stupidly common size (42/43) for less than retail is damn near impossible. I almost cried when I missed gilt put them up for 50% off. And then I almost cried again when Ikkon was running a 30% off black friday sale and my size was gone. But, I think it was for the best. Gold zip from FW13 season dunks bothered me, I much prefer silver zips.

    SS Ijevan - I purchased an Ijevan last year that was one size too big. Since then, I've been searching for one in a common size (4) with no luck. Was not a fan of the bee, and was sad to never find a true chunky knit for all of 2013. I did get an SNS Stark (forum hype) which has been sitting in my closet since purchasing. Need to step up my knit game in 2014 bad.

    I'm stuck in a crossroads in my style right now. Beginning of 2013 leaned towards general goth ninja aesthetics, towards the end shifted to tech ninja. The two overlap somewhat, but also differ on so many levels. Will be interesting to see where 2014 takes me.
     
    Last edited: Jan 2, 2014
    2 people like this.
  16. Parker

    Parker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Yerba Buena
    these are just the highlights in a year of way too much kopping.
    I think it was the year I really fell for Dries Van Noten -- a cruelly expensive habit.
    my 2014 plan is: buy less stuff in general. focus on nice boots and shoes.

    best and most stylistically focused kop
    Dries cotton and wool bombers
    Dries cotton and wool field jackets
    TOJ lambskin A2
    Vass boots

    most sastifying kop
    leather jacket for ms parker

    best boring but highly useful kop
    uniqlo tees and cotton blazer
    SNS stark

    most underwhelming kop
    MMM gat

    most irrational but highly enjoyable kop
    Dries Gijs Frieling psychedelic suit
    George Cox creepers
    Junya x Levis tweed patchwork jeans (may have been 2012)

    epic fail kop
    Christophe Lemaire asymmetric coat
    pretty much every shoe ordered online - farrrgggk

    the one that got away kop
    LBM hopsack coat from NoMan

    experimental kop / possible harbinger of future kopping
    Engineered Garments
     
    Last edited: Jan 2, 2014
    11 people like this.
  17. ffatt

    ffatt Senior member

    Messages:
    502
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    Jul 30, 2009
    

    Those options sound better to me. The sneaker soles or whatever they put on Serra are useless for grip and wear out fast. Hobo x Diemme collab looks a lot like Virgils to me. Really plain design so hard to me pick up on their uniqueness, but its definitely a personal preference thing. I would only ever consider getting the visvim fbt on ebay for a slightly used one because that has no alternative anywhere that I could find. The suede leathers used are amazing.
     
  18. cyc wid it

    cyc wid it Senior member

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    Location:
    Bay Area, CA
    I live in a pretty moderate climate so I don't really need something for trudging through snow or whatever. For me, the Vibram soles are just comfortable and a stylistic thing. A lot of the boots use interesting materials and their proportions are really nice. Even the plain suede ones are just well executed. US retail is obviously hefty, but a bit of patience can get you more reasonable pricing (except for the exclusives/rarer models).
     
    Last edited: Jan 2, 2014
  19. El Argentino

    El Argentino Senior member

    Messages:
    7,987
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    Location:
    Where the Truckee waters flow
    Thanks for the thread @cyc wid it. I made one of these last year and was meaning to get another one going but thought there wouldn't be enough interest. This year, I eliminated the remnants of my pre-SF wardrobe and assembled a decent foundation of basics for both my work and casual wardrobes. I discovered Epaulet and Wolf vs. Goat both fit my aesthetic well, and I stuck mainly to those brands.

    El Argentino's 2013 In Review:

    Above Expectations:

    [​IMG]

    Epaulet Ultraviolet/Charcoal Flannel - Eyed this for months since it initially dropped, but wasn't sure flannel was my thing. Just received it on the 31st of December and it is everything I'd wanted and more. Fantastic fabric, perfect shirt cut, and a very versatile color palette that compliments a large majority of my closet. Wearing it with jeans, it looks grey, while wearing it with grey pants brings out the blue. Love it. Favorite shirt in my wardrobe at this point.

    [​IMG]

    GAP Japanese Selvage, Straight Fit - Pardon the horrible marketing photo, but having done the rounds in multiple denim brands, I wholeheartedly admit that I've found my favorite denim yet in Gap's "Straight" fit. Higher rise, decent thigh, smallish leg opening. I've received more compliments while wearing this jean than my Momotaros, PBJs, and any other SF-approved denim that I haven't flipped for sizing's sake. Plus, for only about $40, I'll never spring for $300+ denim again. Spectacular dark horse of the year.

    [​IMG]

    Charles Tyrwhitt, Extra-Slim Fit Dress Shirts - Rambo, of all people, turned me on to this brand earlier this year by posting a link to a private sale CT was having with shirts running 29.50 a piece for any new customers. I bought four or so, needing to pad the shirt rotation for work. Cannot complain in the least for the price. Really good fit for me, have held up well, and I personally love the beefy collars. Wouldn't imagine paying retail for them, but for the price they came up big time.

    Met Expectations:

    [​IMG]

    Wolf vs. Goat Before Dinner Overdyes - Got a few of these from Mauro over the course of the year through various means; purchases, winning contests, from friends, etc. These are my perfect casual shirt. The Before Dinner cut is slim through the waist, but still offers sufficient room in the shoulders and chest. Plus, I love the thickness and weight of the overdye fabrics used for this run of shirts; ended up with Plum, Lavender, Cotton Candy, Wine, and Pine Green. Have yet to obtain the "Kick Ass Blue" but may just have to round out the collection. Biggest regret of the year was not making off with the one pictured above in Slate.

    [​IMG]

    Alden x Epaulet Natural CXL Longwing - I remember seeing these online in Fall '12 and going into absolute lust-mode. Was able to work a few extra hours to assemble funds and swung these in February or so and haven't looked back. The natural CXL ages amazingly, and the Leydon last is sleeker than the Barrie. No complaints whatsoever.

    [​IMG]

    Epaulet Rivet Chinos - NYI and his fits first sparked my interest in these pants. The fit always looked amazing - slim, but not too tight anywhere. Ordered a few pairs last year (2012) and that trend continued through '13. Have never been let down. This year, got a few in 7oz cotton which work fantastically for summer, and then a few in Wool for fall. Every pair has their own selling points, but I just love the fit. My go-to casual pants. If you haven't gotten yourself a pair yet, please do.


    Below Expectations:

    [​IMG]

    Epaulet x Carmina Salinger Double Monks - Feels really awkward to put these here, because I do love my pair so much. But in retrospect, based on how I hyped myself up for these they just weren't 100% satisfying. These were my other big purchase of the year (along with the NatCXL LWB) - again, requiring a few extra hours put in at work to work room in the budget. Was finally able to swing them in mid-summer after having set my sights on them almost a year earlier. Fit great, feel great, and I love wearing them, but inasmuch as I expected a "perfect" shoe for my money, I psyched myself out pouring over the pair looking for any flaws whatsoever - and that experience leaves a bad taste in my mouth. In actuality, they were fine, and have held up great, but that level of microscopic inspection and finnicking over a purchase soured the experience for me.

    -

    Other than that, got into thrifting and found a few blazers and work-appropriate items that I've since gotten tailored and can only love. This year, going to find a pair of black, calfskin, 2-eyelet chukka boots, delve more into work trousers (Epaulet Rudy cut, probably), and maybe focus on a cool piece of outerwear (love that Barbour Commander above, based on the Skyfall Tokito jacket, no doubt).

    It was a good year, generally.
     
    Last edited: Jan 2, 2014
    2 people like this.
  20. Lorcan7

    Lorcan7 Senior member

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    Location:
    1971
    2013 was the year I went big with Engineered Garments I guess. Kopped more stuff than I intended but a lot of it was good.

    Best Kops:

    EG wool-denim railroader jacket - kinda wasn't expecting this to work out but it really did. Love the fabric.
    EG denim western shirt - my favorite shirt, probably deserving a contentedness thread post in 2014.
    EG C1 vest - more versatile than I imagined, awesome design/construction.

    Epic fail:

    Needles arrow jacket - great jacket but too small and sleeves too short on me [​IMG]. Also happened to be a proxying disaster (got sent different version, which I shipped back to japan for exchange).

    What the hell was I thinking kop:

    Geller shorts - got them in end-of-season sales when British summer had already been and gone. Don't think a mild drop-crotch is really my style [​IMG]. Comfy around the house though.

    Jury still out:

    EG button shawl navy windowpane - haven't worn it as much as I thought I would, think the heavy cotton plaid version might have been more wearable.

    The one that got away:

    Junya blazers from F/W13 - I was in love when I tried them on at DSM but couldn't justify pricetag.


    2014 planned kops

    moar EG, from SS14:

    lafayette shirt - large floral print
    work shirt - herringbone stripe
    western shirt - chambray patchwork
    19th c. button down - ribbon stripe
    duster coat - waiting to see all available materials/colours
    painter pants - "
    workaday jeans - natural denim
    andover or baker jacket
    another vest

    Some F/W pieces too, no doubt.

    Sunglasses - Garrett Leight or Moscot.

    Sneakers - Visvim, maybe some Vans too.

    Belt

    Try something different (Kapital, Dries, Junya, Haversack, ???)
     
    5 people like this.

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