2013 Clothing Insights & 2014 Clothing Plans

[Holdfast]

We forgot to do this thread this year... better late than never!

Share what you learned (e.g. brands, style tips, insights, other ideas) in 2013, and your plans for your style/wardrobe in 2014!

Previous editions of this thread: 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013



For me:
last years's thread:
2013 Insights:
- Find-and-replace continues to work. That is, if I buy something new, it's only to replace something I already have, which means the old item is either worn out and needs throwing out, or doesn't fit me well and needs selling. No further accumulation!
- Contrary to my 2013 plan, I actually bought two dainite-soled shoes (black chukkas, dark brown oxfords) and am contemplating adding a third pair (maybe black wingtips). Maybe it's just all the rain we've been having over the past couple of years, but I feel that I need more rubber-soled shoes than some years ago.
- I certainly did replace a couple of summer suits and jackets, and that was down to discovering a RTW brand that actually fits me OK: Suitsupply
- I found a new shirtmaker in Luxire, who exceeded my expectations sufficiently to have ordered rather a lot of shirts from them.
- Replace socks when they start to fade badly rather than procrastining indefinitely!
- I'm bored of french cuff shirts; they're too annoying to layer. They now occupy about 10-20% of my selection instead of about 30-40% at the start of the year.
- It's fun to have a range of silhouettes in your wardrobe.

2014 Plans:
- Most of my wardrobe fits me how I want it to, more or less. But I do want to do a find-and-replace edit of the remaining items I don't really think are up to scratch.
- For jackets/suits, that will continue to be a combination of Suitsupply RTW and Ede & Ravenscroft bespoke. There are far fewer changes needed than before, but maybe 3-4 items still need upgrading.
- For belted odd trousers, I want to refine my fit with Luxire and then make a significant order.
- Round out my shirt selection a bit more.

 

[FlyingMonkey]

Good thread, shame it hasn't got much notice yet... so I'll help it along.

2013 Insights (formed from a combination of being in Tokyo most of the year and having only a small selection of my wardrobe with me almost the entire year):

- I can have 2 or 3 entirely different ways of dressing and dress well in each of them;
- I actually quite like button-down shirts;
- I have too many things, especially ties and shoes, that I don't really wear and don't need and yet I lack some essential basics;
- Maker's Shirt (Kamakura) slim (Tokyo) fit in 37/14.5" is perfect for me: I have no need to go MTM for my basic shirts, and at just over $50 (+alteration costs) each here in Japan - yes, you are paying a hefty mark-up in the USA! - there's no comparable alternative in the same price bracket;
- Chup socks are my favourite socks in the world;
- Almost everything RTW is better quality in Japan at every price level... but finding stuff that fits is harder;
- I needed a plan for 2014.

Plans for 2014 (a year of clearing out.. and a commitment to a great deal more care and discrimination).

By the end of April:
- Buy about 4-5 more Kamakura shirts before I leave Japan so I have all basic variations that I need;
- Buy all the socks and underwear I need for the foreseeable future and get rid of the rest;
- (not CM) Get some fantasic denim from Sugarcane, ONI etc., and some kind of insane long coat from Kapital;

April, in London:
- Deal with some of my 'Unfunded Liabilities': with fabric that I already have, commission a couple of suits from The Cad and the Dandy, and a one unique piece from them or someone else (don't even ask about the latter, most of you won't like what I'm planning - it involves words like 'asymmetric' and 'twisted'!)

When I get back to Ontario in May, have a serious clear-out:
- Rationalize my shoe collection: get rid of about 5 pointless pairs of shoes and boots, mainly bought second hand
- Rationalize my tie collection: get rid of around 10 ties
- Get rid of a several dated suits and jackets, worn-out low quality shirts etc.

By the end of the year:
- Buy two pairs of properly-fitted black and dark brown captoe Oxfords;
- Buy about 4 or 5 essential ties - and only from Forum members' businesses;
- Work out what trousers I actually need and which really suit me - trousers are the most tricky area for me;
- Have a chat with two or three tailors (I am already thinking that David Reeves is one of them, maybe Steed and The Cad and the Dandy, the others) with a view to future commissions. I need to find a tailor accessible from Ontario, in a place where I have reason to go regularly in the next 5 years or so (this means New York or the UK) and who really suits my needs and who I like. Those three all have house styles, and have produced work for other people that I have seen, that appeal to me. There is no one I would regard as reliably good enough with a style that I like in Ontario or Quebec.

General plans:
- I will not buy any more suiting fabric (except Dashing Tweeds end-of-roll specials, because that's the only way I can afford it, or unless it is something fabulous at a ludicrously low price);
- I will not buy any more odd jackets, I have more than enough and since I prefer wearing either suits or SW&D gear, there's less need for me to have so many;
- Now I know the sizing of different Japanese clothing companies well, I am only going to be buying my non-CM stuff from Japan, but only occasionally, and carefully;
- No more impulse buys. In fact, no more crap. Full stop.

 

[Journeyman]



- No more impulse buys. In fact, no more crap. Full stop.

This, particularly the impulse purchases part.

I've generally been successful with it for the past couple of years but I still have too much stuff in my wardrobe from past years that hardly gets worn at all. What's the point of having a lovely suit, or a nice pair of shoes, if they only get worn a couple of times a year? Far, far better to sell those things or to give them away and, if replacing them at all, to replace them with something that will get a lot of wear and that can be incorporated into a lot of outfits.

 

[Claghorn]

I learned a lot in 2013. A lot of it happened late 2012 early 2013, so I'm not sure where I'd draw the line. I started sourcing my own fabric in 2013. Gave me a wider range of options and saved me a good amount of money as tailors really gouge on decent fabric. Buy what I like not what I want to like. You can't have too many pairs of gray trousers. Neats are really versatile.

For 2014

- basically, I need to prepare for my move back to the United States in August. Pick up my pattern from my tailor and send it to @Mauro . Figure out whether to grab my shirt pattern and send it to @luxire or send them a shirt. It'll be odd moving from B&M tailoring to online tailoring

- going to get a linen suit from B&Tailor. Their Tumblr is enough to sell me on them, especially their shoulders. If I like it, I'll probably get two more linen jackets from them (if not, I'll stick with my current tailor, with whom I'm moderately happy with). It'll be linen all the way, as it'll be a lot hotter where I'm moving.

- get some shirts with either a brown or green base.

 

[steveabdn]

2013 is a starting point for me but not a very active one as I'm currently losing weight so I've not been going into the clothing market too heavily

In 2013 I have been figuring out a lot about what my style actually is and it was a bit of a watershed year as I actually developed the confidence to wear what I want and dress well when those around me don't see the value in it.

Edward Green has been a big revelation for me this year, spending 3x what I normally spend on shoes changed my attitude and I no longer see them as disposable when the soles run down.

I've bought quite a few Drakes ties in 2013, a Hober and I've recently started discussions with Gianni over some PC bits and pieces, currently pouring over the many images of vintage silk to decide which best suits me. 2013 was a yeat of accessories for me, they will still work when I finish losing weight so I haven't thrown the money away.

In 2014 I will reach my target weight and go to the local tailor for a suit (or several!). More Edward Greens to follow and possibly some other high end shoe purchases. I get married this year and I'm planning a trip to London to celebrate so I'm going to visit a few of the shops that parochial Aberdeen can only dream about!!

I'm also moving bedroom in the house to one of our current spare bedrooms, this bedroom has a jack and jill en suite with the other spare room so we are converting that one into a dressing room and fitting Hulsta bits and pieces. This will improve function but also general style in the way I store my clothes, I will be spending a good bit of time on lighting design and making sure even when just being stored my clothes look as good as the possibly can.

2014 in summary, hit target weight, start buying properly nice clothes and exploring my own sense of style

 

[archibaldleach]

2013 Insights

- It is worthwhile to invest in 2 (or maybe more) high quality sweaters for casual situations
- I still do not like button down collars on shirts
- Even though I like pink and lilac shirts, I tend to wear white shirts with suits and often prefer blue shirts with most of my odd jackets
- Less French cuffs and more barrel cuffs going forward

2014 Goals

- Lose a bit more weight and finalize odd trouser selection (summer ones by May, F/W ones by August)
- Find a good "OneShirt" fabric / get more blue dress shirts with barrel cuffs
- Other than necessary replacements, acquire no more than 2-3 odd jackets / suits per year

 

[archibaldleach]

Thought this thread deserved a bump.

 

[Wayward]

What I learned (about myself) in 2013:

- I've started moving away from flashy colours. Previously I really liked pairing strong colours together that still harmonized; however I'm starting to feel that it's detracting from the cut of the suit and the overall esthetics. Rather than have someone notice one item in particular, I want to make the compliments more intangible, of being memorable yet unremarkable
- Fewer patterns and more emphasis on fabric weaves. I want to start slimming down my wardrobe, and carrying lots of striped shirts means I need more ties to accommodate. I'm moving toward a plan of solid shirts with grenadine ties only
- SF groupthink is not always correct. Question everything

What I plan to do in 2014:

- wholecuts
- wholecuts
- wholecuts

 

[AFCForever]

2013 was a year to try and figure out what my real workhorses were going to be. In 2012 I did a wardrobe reboot and started with a lot of thrifted used stuff which turned out to be a good idea as a lot of what I loved then is in the thrift pile now.

What I learned
-I will always like denim so it is worth investing in. Gustins turned me on to selvedge
- I don't like chinos, polos or generally stripes. A lot of people consider these essentials but I never wear the ones I got
- I am dressy guy but I don't get much wear out of my worsteds as my job is business casual so odd jackets and good pants are the best investment
- It is really hard to get a decent jacket off the rack, I am a pretty standard size so I don't need to go crazy with custom items if the quality is good. MTM I am hoping is good enough
- online MTM is a waste of money
- I am good about throwing things out but I need to wait a little longer to see if there is really no use for it
- North American shirts are cut too short for tall people who wear their shirts tucked in
- My local store my friends consider too expensive (E.R. Fisher in Ottawa, Canada) is actually very reasonably priced and offer a lot of alternatives to people who like classic style and good quality, especially if you tend towards British over Italian cuts. They have already got over $1000 from me in their January sale and I expect to spend more there this year. A lot of what they show me takes a while to sink in so I have to learn to go with their advice more.
- work is not a nightclub so only the clothes that are professional are worth wearing

My plans for 2014
This is the upgrade year.
- I will get some more high quality but less formal dress shoes. Got a pair of Strands this month with a couple of more pairs on their way over the year,
- Already got a MTM charcoal jacket on the way. Likely a mid blue, dark and light brown will follow in time, all in nubbier fabrics if this one works out
- More shirts with decent patterns in colours that flatter me, mostly in whites with a good pattern
- Take colours more seriously and really take note of the ones that look the best on me

 

[YRR92]

I think I have more real-world knowledge now than I did at the start of 2013.

My aims: shoot a lot of WIWT pictures, only spend "real money" (between 10% and 50% of what much of SF considers "real money," in my case) on stuff that will have a lot of utility, and pare down my wardrobe a bit.

 

[AFCForever]

- Work out what trousers I actually need and which really suit me - trousers are the most tricky area for me;
- Have a chat with two or three tailors (I am already thinking that David Reeves is one of them, maybe Steed and The Cad and the Dandy, the others) with a view to future commissions. I need to find a tailor accessible from Ontario, in a place where I have reason to go regularly in the next 5 years or so (this means New York or the UK) and who really suits my needs and who I like. Those three all have house styles, and have produced work for other people that I have seen, that appeal to me. There is no one I would regard as reliably good enough with a style that I like in Ontario or Quebec.

I suspect your tastes are way more developed than mine but for what it is worth I got a decent suit from Peter Parvez in Toronto last year. First bespoke garment though so I suspect I am easier to please.

 

[Academic2]

(1) Not a realization as much as a broadening of taste: I’ve come to appreciate wool, wool blend, and, more generally speaking, highly textured ties much more. I bought a few, and as a result have been wearing my flannel and tweed herringbone suits more often than I otherwise would. This is ironic, given my first resolution …

(2) Resolution: stop buying so damn many ties. I’ve got far more than I need. Just say no.

(3) Resolution: make a point of thanking the participants in some of my favorite threads here who otherwise wouldn't even know I'd been reading them since I mostly lurk—the various incarnations of WAYW and “whnay’s good taste thread.” Thanks, gentlemen.

Cheers,

Ac

 

[Hirsh]



This, particularly the impulse purchases part.

I've generally been successful with it for the past couple of years but I still have too much stuff in my wardrobe from past years that hardly gets worn at all. What's the point of having a lovely suit, or a nice pair of shoes, if they only get worn a couple of times a year? Far, far better to sell those things or to give them away and, if replacing them at all, to replace them with something that will get a lot of wear and that can be incorporated into a lot of outfits.

No more impulse buys is one of my resolutions too!

I've already ordered 2 Anna Matuozzo bespoke shirts, which will cost a lot but are my little luxury...

Hopfully nothing else until something needs replacing...

Going to be a tough year, but should give me a chance to pay off a credit card and wear out some things I'm not in love with

 

[Hirsh]



I think I have more real-world knowledge now than I did at the start of 2013.

My aims: shoot a lot of WIWT pictures, only spend "real money" (between 10% and 50% of what much of SF considers "real money," in my case) on stuff that will have a lot of utility, and pare down my wardrobe a bit.

Mine will only be pared down by wearing out pieces that I don't love, so wear them so often that they collapse, or items that I like so much they wear out.

One is my AM shirts is about to disintegrate- lipuckily I've got 2 more ordered.

For the rest I hope to wear out some pieces to justify a spend up next year!!!

 

[JubeiSpiegel]

2013
The year I finally understood my personal style, and stopped just following SF groupthink. The year I seriously looked at all the impulse buys, needless iterations, & non-life appropriate items, and cut down my wardrobe significantly. The year that I only bought something if I truly loved it, and if it was an essential item I was looking for.

2014
The year I stop missing out on those must-kop sales, and use my clothing budget more wisely. With any luck, the year I commission my first bespoke piece. Either with Steed, but more likely Mina, based on my more casual life situation...