- Nov 28, 2013
- Reaction score
I feel like this conversation about which fit is "correct" has its place, but the real question has always been about what fit is correct for what you are trying to do. Classic menswear is the most rigid about this, but even then its not as if the Italians, English, and Americans have ever come together in unanimous voice and proclaimed "the shoulder should definitely fit this way, I think we all agree." Being conscious of the way something wears and the silhouette it gives you is far better than saying "X should always fit in Y manner." That's how we ended up five years ago with almost everyone saying pants should be slim and flat fronted. The idea of baggy cargo pants (though it seems we're calling baggy "slouchy" now) would have given people a heart attack back then. Flat fronted slim pants (or even skinny pants) still have their place even today, as long as you know why you would wear them. I can't think of any article of clothing that I'd say should always fit or be worn in a particular manner by every person. Thom Browne's suit revolution wasn't "wrong," it was just a specific viewpoint on how he wanted them to look. Neither was it wrong for men to say they wanted their pant breaks to be in the same zip code as their shoes.This is deliberate because I’d like them to fit how they look on the model, but the response to the fit has been so positive overall that I’d be crazy to change it. That said, they’re too small for cargos. Size up.
I don't like the way pants feel or look when I have to cinch them up to not have them fall down. Feels funny to me where it gathers, and sometimes it makes the pockets (or whatever is being pulled over) too narrow or unbalanced. If you're trying to wear 18E in the manner that Antonio envisions it, then sizing up is the answer. If you acknowledge that and choose to wear it with a more conventional fit, that's not wrong either. It's just not intended by the designer.
And it's making Antonio sad.