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13.5 oz Cone Mills Selvedge, Made in San Fransisco, and only $81? Kickstarter

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by SparhawkJC, Jan 7, 2013.

  1. GusW

    GusW Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    My heavy Americans arrived. They are 14.75 oz Cone denim. For perspective, my favorite jean for the last 10 years has been the LVC 1947. To me that is just about the best looking jean on any guy at any age with any build. They got it right.

    But Levis messed around with them, so I don't buy them any more and my collection is made up of 2006 and earlier examples along with some other 2000-2004 era LVC special editions. During that time frame, Levis was using some excellent denim which, IMO had more character and texture than LVC denim in later years. (I also own some Rising Sun, Jack Knife Outfitters bespoke and Jean Shop denim.)

    What I like about these Gustins:

    1) the knee and thigh are on average the same as 4 pairs of my '47' LVC.
    2) The rise is about 3/4" less than 47's which I enjoy for a slightly more modern fit.

    These are pretty much a perfect pant if only the cuff was closer to 8". The pair I received measures 8 5/8" at the cuff and their website says 9". At 8 5/8" they should be OK. I still have a pair of the Heavy Japanese to arrive. If they are 9", I will have them taped down to 8".

    To me, a true straight leg jean is OK with a 9" cuff , but I like more shape to the leg. Unfortunately Gustin's skinny model is way too skinny for me. But, I'm 6' 2" and 185 lbs. I did see the skinny on Josh Gustin and he looks great in them, better than when he wore the classic straights, but he is also a lean guy. So keep your body shape and weight in mind when selecting your fit.

    What blows me away about these jeans is the denim. This has to be some of the best Cone Mills denim I've ever seen. To me, most Cone is flat, stiff and dull. In other words, boring. This denim is very impressive. It has character. It has texture and heft without feeling bulky. It certainly isn't super heavy and has some comfortable "give" to it. . I think it is an excellent all-around weight and with its texture should break-in beautifully.

    I will post some photos shortly on my Tumblr blog of the fabric. http://abitofcolor.tumblr.com/

    This is special stuff. Get a pair!


    [​IMG]
     
    2 people like this.
  2. trouble

    trouble Member

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    Pocketsquareguy,
    Thanks for repping your tumblr, there's lots of great inspiration in there. I subscribed.
     
  3. GusW

    GusW Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    :slayer:
     
  4. single origin

    single origin Senior member

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    Mar 31, 2013
    Pocketsquareguy, would you say that these rival the ~$250 brand denim (tellason, raleigh, I+W, etc) that use cone mills denim in terms of quality and craftsmanship?
     
  5. GusW

    GusW Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    In my opinion,these are every bit as good as Tellason in overall quality. The only real difference, price aside, is which fit you prefer and the feel of the denim. That is an entirely personal preference. To me, I never found a Tellason fit that I really liked and I tried each one of their fits in different sizes at AB Fits. I tried on Gustin when they were still sold in retail stores and I preferred their fit over Tellason. I tried on various Raleighs at Unionmade in SF and I didn't find a pair that suited me. So, the Gustin were still the best, for me. As far as how they are constructed they are similar. Tellason and Gustin are sewn in the same facility in San Francisco. I can't see any difference in quality control, fit or finish. Raleigh promotes that each pair is made start to finish by one person. Cool story. Does it matter or does it make you feel better about the product? If it matters to you then buy the Raleighs. I didn't and that was when the price or Raleighs and Gustins were about the same price at retail. So it wasn't an issue of price. I've never tried on a pair of I+W.
     
    1 person likes this.
  6. Mox C

    Mox C Senior member

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    Rochester, NY
    Thanks for the update, PSG. I'm waiting anxiously for mine. The Super Heavy will probably be a bit much for the summer and so will have to wait until fall for regular wear, but the Overdye should follow along not too far afterward. I also ordered a pair of the Super Light in slim from the site. I'm 5'11" and 150-155 lbs, so I think they should be ok. I'm 45, but don't really look it, so hopefully I can get away with the skinny look.

    I'll have a nice range of weights and the two cuts for a comparison (9oz slim, 14oz straight, & 18oz straight). I've been tempted to pull the trigger on one more pair (Green Weft), but I'm going to wait at least until I see how the straight cut fits me. I hope they post something else summer-appropriate soon, like some decent shorts. It's sounds like some shirts may be on the way as well. The main drawback to the crowdsourcing is waiting for them to get made.
     
  7. js0930

    js0930 Senior member

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    PDX
    I just got my Japan standards and I'm impressed. The denim is nice, the fit is great, now I'm really looking forward to my Super Heavys.
     
  8. Bonggoy

    Bonggoy Senior member

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    I have the same issue. I ordered the INTERNATIONAL (Heavy Japan and American). Both are size 32. The American is about an inch too small in the waist.
     
  9. GusW

    GusW Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Contact them on their webpage. They may be able to help you arrange a swap.
     
  10. suaviter

    suaviter Senior member

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    Dec 6, 2012
    I have a 31 #11 Standard (12.5 oz selvage) and need a 32 if anybody wants to swap shoot me a PM>
     
  11. Kwaker

    Kwaker Senior member

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    Do the Gustin cuts have a modern fitted seat (left image) or a repro anti-fit seat (right image). I avoid repro cuts like the plague because the back seam always rides up my crack giving me wedgie.



    [​IMG]
     
    1 person likes this.
  12. GusW

    GusW Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Mine are the classic cut and they are similar to your photo on the left with that concave cut. But, not quite so much.

    They are several fit pics on their website.
     
  13. Kwaker

    Kwaker Senior member

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    The side view of the fits on the site looks suitable. I just couldn't find a rear-view that could indicate the wedgie potential. But your description of a concave back seam does sound promising.
     
  14. barrelntrigger

    barrelntrigger Senior member

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    Wish I were in Japan right now...
    You can always email the dudes and ask them if your local denim store carry their models so you can drop by to try on a pair.
     
  15. Mox C

    Mox C Senior member

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    Just went out to the mailbox to grab my Super Heavy. Wow! These things are amazing! This is some serious denim. They fit perfect standing up, but I find the higher rise of the straight cut a bit uncomfortable while sitting, unless my posture is perfect (it rarely is). Popping just the top button feels about right, so I'm thinking that a 1" ease will be close to perfect. My LVC '66 501's now fit like a glove after a bit of wear and a single wash, so I'll just give the new pair a little time. The LVC are what I used to compare measurements to. It's nice to have a *real* 34" inseam on the Gustin so I can double roll the cuffs, which the SH are begging for, in my eyes. The LVC are labeled 32/34, but are now missing ~3" in length, even if the waist is accurate. I still love them, though.

    I also saw the Natural just as they posted it, so put an order in for them as well. I had originally had them as straight, but just switched to slim. Now that I'm used to the lower rise and know how to wear it, I much prefer it.

    I promised a fit pic once they came in. My camera's battery was dead, so I had to fall back on my phone's crummy camera.

    Big thanks to SparhawkJC for letting us all know about this back in January!

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: May 24, 2013
    1 person likes this.
  16. barrelntrigger

    barrelntrigger Senior member

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    Wish I were in Japan right now...
    ^ Wow! I'm surprised their classic fit looks this great! I'm guessing that's because you are at least what, 5'10 to 6'? Yeah, I think their classic fit won't work on us shorter guys. But looks great on you!
     
  17. BobbyBagstein

    BobbyBagstein Active Member

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    The classic fit doesn't look good unless you're over 5'10.
     
  18. Mox C

    Mox C Senior member

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    Thanks, man! Yeah, I'm 5'11" (and maybe some fraction) & 160 lbs.
     
  19. CPaul

    CPaul Senior member

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    Any insight on the natural denim? Never seen anything like it. Thinking of. Giving it a shot but won't it get dirty real fast? Also, no indigo, so no fades? Wish they had more pictures, will these look like white jeans?

    NM, saw this: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...soHgCA&usg=AFQjCNGaFiWXhX_EhWVQKYR5hMzmXquHWw. Too white looking for me
     
    Last edited: May 25, 2013
  20. GusW

    GusW Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    They were popular in the 60's as alternative to blue jeans or chinos. Much like white jeans they require regular washing or they will look rather funky. They are a great look for Spring and Summer.
     

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