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12" Drop Suit Issue

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by jarth3000, Dec 29, 2011.

  1. Millerp

    Millerp Senior member

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    A $500 MTM suit isn't going to be of significantly better quality than JAB separates that are tailored to fit you by a competent tailor.

    Decent quality MTM (Samuelsohn, Hickey Freeman, HSM, Southwick) is going to cost ~ $800 - $1,000 or more.

    By all means look for MTM in your price range but higher range JAB fitted correctly is not as bad as we may be led to believe
    on the clothing fora.
     


  2. JayJay

    JayJay Senior member

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    I'm a thin guy (158#) with broad shoulders, an athletic build, and have consisently had a 10-11 inch drop over the years, probably due to years of cycling and running. In my younger years with limited resources I wore separates, but in recent years I've bought suits where the stores were willing to reconstruct the pants or MTM or, as of late, bespoke.
     


  3. reidrothchild

    reidrothchild Senior member

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    10 inches is somewhat understandable, but "anyone who lifts or competes in sports" will not have the same problem. I'm currently at an 8 inch drop, and I'm not "in the same ballpark" as someone with a 10 inch drop. A 12 inch drop is very extreme, especially at this guy's size, and is not explained by working out occasionally or playing adult rec league soccer on the weekends. In fact, most of the competitive lifters I know probably don't even have a 10 inch drop simply because squatting and deadlifting heavy weights strengthens and builds muscle in your core, which will expand your waist measurement. I'd say if someone has a legit 12 inch drop they are (a) a competitive bodybuilder; (b) a genetic freak; and/or (c) a gymnast/swimmer/beach-muscle-only type who has no lower body development to speak of. Given that this guy has a 48 inch chest, I'd say he's a combo of (a) and (b).

    As to OP's question, stick with your suit separates for the occasions when you need a suit, but make blazers/sportcoats and odd trousers your everyday wear. $500 MTM will be hit or miss (mostly miss) and will likely not turn out ideally your first time out. Take a shot at MTM/bespoke when you can set aside enough money to do it right. Congrats on the child!
     


  4. Nicola

    Nicola Senior member

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    Or he's a true meso body type.

    Arnold was supposedly around a 20 inch drop when he was winning completions. I think a pro bodybuilder with a 12 inch drop would be a woman.
     


  5. Gibonius

    Gibonius Senior member

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    Lots of amateur bodybuilders could have 12 inch drops. 48" chest and 36" waist is not all that extreme for a dedicated hobbyist. I barely trained for hypertrophy at all, and have a fairly thick waist and I was 46"/36". I know lots of guys are blessed with better genetics and have thinner waists, or focused more on bulking up their chests.

    I have a lot easier time finding fitted jackets at 44R than at 46R. Seems like there's a transition there where most makers just assume you're a fatass.
     


  6. reidrothchild

    reidrothchild Senior member

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    He wouldn't have to be a pro bodybuilder. I was referring to a competitive bodybuilder, which means someone who competes in amateur competitions. I know a few semi-pro types who are on steroids, and they can obviously go well beyond the 12 inch drop range. As far as Arnold, he obviously had a huge drop, but he was one of the most genetically gifted bodybuilders in the sport's history (who was also chemically enhanced btw).
     
    Last edited: Dec 30, 2011


  7. reidrothchild

    reidrothchild Senior member

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    Yeah, that's essentially what I said. A drop that large would not be abnormal on a competitive bodybuilder. But competitive bodybuilders--dudes who are will to do the training and diet necessary to feel comfortable stripping down to their speedos in front of judges--are not that common.
     
    Last edited: Dec 30, 2011


  8. KObalto

    KObalto Senior member

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    Anyone else notice that jarth seems to have left the building? He said elsewhere that he is a banker and needs suits to meet with clients. I still have a suspicion that he may be overweight and wears his pants extremely low under his gut. Quite a few men I know do.
    We may never know.
     
    Last edited: Dec 30, 2011


  9. jarth3000

    jarth3000 Member

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    I'm not sure what's going on here, but I've tried to reply multiple times and it's saying "being held for moderation." So, I'm going to try to reply without quoting anyone and see if that works.

    Anyways, as I had stated in the replies not yet seen, I'm a former college basketball player; as an athlete I trained to have a broad and strong upper body and a strong core, hence the large shoulders/chest and the smaller, proportionately, waist. It is a 48US, and no, this isn't a trolling effort as PatrickBooth seems to think for whatever reason.

    Just trying to get it figured out. I realize some of the better MTM are more expensive, but as I stated that's not a possibility right now so I'm just trying to get insight on other possibilities. Thanks for those who've posted constructive feedback!
     


  10. KObalto

    KObalto Senior member

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    Hmm, you must have been born with some pretty broad shoulders as well. Looks like Nicola was right.
    Where are you located?
    Do you have to have suits as opposed to sport jackets and slacks?
     


  11. jarth3000

    jarth3000 Member

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    Yeah, my shoulders are naturally broad. My pops where's a 52 jacket, of course he does have a bit of a rotund mid section nowadays. Nothing I can do about them, sucks for clothing purposes.

    I live in Omaha right now and there's nothing that I've found as far as MTM. I have a fantastic tailor, but she can only do so much most of the time. And yes, it's suits only unfortunately. I wish banks would go to business casual, I feel so freaking over dressed most of the time visiting clients.
     


  12. jarth3000

    jarth3000 Member

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    Is that an Aussie in your avy btw?
     


  13. Gibonius

    Gibonius Senior member

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    Eh? Who said it was common? People were acting like it was impossible, that he had to have made a mistake in claiming a 12" drop. Providing examples just shows that the OP could be correctly measuring himself. It's more than just competitive bodybuilders too, I saw lots of guys who are never going to a meet hit those dimensions. Most every gym probably has a few.

    As far as the fatass thing, you've got different body types at 46R+. Most suits are cut for the bulk of the market, which gives you jackets and pants with 40"+ waists. That's, uh, fat. It's tough to find anything cut in an "athletic" style at that size. For the athletes/lifters, if you left some of that mass go, and hit say a 44R, you're just a lot more likely to find stuff that's cut the way you want. The smaller you get, the lower your drop is likely to be, even for fit guys.
     
    Last edited: Dec 30, 2011


  14. JayJay

    JayJay Senior member

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    As I posted earlier, I understand your dilemma. Separates were my staple for years, they allowed me to have a decent fitting suit. Worked well for me during those years, and I was often complimented on how well my suits fit. Good luck.
     


  15. bucksfan

    bucksfan Senior member

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    I, too have found that 44R suits and sport coats generally tend to be cut to fit a more athletic individual, while 46R tend to be cut for more portly individuals. I measure to a 47 coat and a 35 to 36 pant, depending on the season (spring / summer I tend to lose some weight as I work more on triathlon training rather than just weightlifting and treadmill, which are my exercises in the winter).

    I have been able to go with separates with some success. I have had good luck and bad luck with JAB - sometimes the pants portion of the separates work well, other times they don't. Either way, an off-the-rack 46R or 48R jacket needs major surgery to fit me everywhere other than the chest and shoulders. One of the worst I have is a Burberry sport coat I just took to my tailor, which needs 8-10" taken out of the midsection.

    I also just recently ordered my first custom suit, and anxiously await the first fitting in a couple weeks and the delivery of the suit in 6 weeks.

    Oh, and to the OP - you shouldn't feel overdressed in a suit - it's comforting for a client to see his advisors (including bankers) take their job seriously enough to dress appropriately.
     
    Last edited: Dec 30, 2011


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