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10" drop suit recommendation

peteopp

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Hello all.
I've used search extensively but looking for a bit more relevant advice to 2024 and my size.
I'm looking for a staple charcoal/navy suit as an all-purpose. Funerals, weddings, interviews, work. I'm in leadership at an engineering firm, so the bar is set pretty high (kidding of course). This isn't my first suit however and would like for it to fit fairly well with a modern but not trendy cut. Given I'm not a slim build and have a 10" drop, I have some concerns if otr + tailoring is worth it vs mtm or bespoke.

I'm currently 215-220lb, 5'10", broad shouldered (genetics + weightlifting). I have not been measured yet but home measurement said i had a 20" shoulder and a few suits as jab and mw said i was a 46/48r and 36 trousers.

Was reaching out for general advice to point me in the right direction. SS, S&M, divij bespoke, BB madison, etc. I've seen advice towards ss napoli or possibly custom order s&m. Just don't want to waste my time if it's never going to fit my body type correctly.

Thanks all.
 
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circumspice

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You are probably not going to find joy RTW - most stuff is drop 6, and trying to take stuff in 4 inches is not likely feasible - hip pockets on trousers would sit on top of each other if you tried to take trousers in that much.

How hard to fit are you in sport coats? If you fit them decently, you could try to find a place where you can MTO/MTM a suit with the trousers down 1-2 sizes. This presumes you are easy to fit, just in different sizes for the trouser and coat. If you have more substantial fit issues , going with a solid MTM program or bespoke could make sense.

I am a fairly easy fit, but around a drop 8-8.5, so I can do the MTO-with-trousers-down-one thing and have it work. I dabble in bespoke because I like it a lot, not that I severely need to due to fit issues.
 

peteopp

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I think I'm fairly easy to fit in sport coats. I don't have raging biceps or anything.

Decided to shotgun a couple orders with suitsupply and s&m. Will report back with the findings.

Thanks
 

peteopp

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First one is a 46R / 36 S&M dark navy in contemporary cut.

Apologize, I'm not squared up fully in all the shots. Not really sure what to think of it, the shoulders and dimpling seem off to me. Arms aren't draping well. Possibly a little tight in the arm holes? Sleeves a hair long. Seems slightly tight/uncomfortable to move my arms.

Also looking for feedback on the shirt. it's a 17.5 / 35.
 

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peteopp

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2nd one is a SuitSupply 48R / 38 Navy in Lazio fit. I swapped between pleated Vigo pants and Brescia trousers. I liked the room in the seat the pleat of the Vigo provided and the side waist tabs were a nice touch. Brescia is tight in the seat, but maybe a tailor could correct that. Would have to custom order if I wanted to get the fit of the Vigo with the same fabric of the Lazio jacket I assume.

I thought the arms laid down nicer and didn't see as much shoulder dimple. Not sure I liked anything else better though.
 

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peteopp

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pleated Vigo pants
 

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circumspice

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First one is a 46R / 36 S&M dark navy in contemporary cut.

Apologize, I'm not squared up fully in all the shots. Not really sure what to think of it, the shoulders and dimpling seem off to me. Arms aren't draping well. Possibly a little tight in the arm holes? Sleeves a hair long. Seems slightly tight/uncomfortable to move my arms.

Also looking for feedback on the shirt. it's a 17.5 / 35.

Might be worth trying on a 48R in this cut, if possible. This coat honestly makes me, rank amateur, wonder if you will fundamentally have a problem with RTW - it almost looks like you are a 46R in the back, but a 47 or 48R in the front. There is a bit of pulling at the buttoning point, so sure, that could be let out a hair, but it looks like there isn't much room in the chest - the lapels are slightly bowing, and I don't know if that is exclusively a function of the waist being slightly tight

The trouser waist looks a hair tight as well, so the trousers on a 48R might be a better starting point, as their would also have a bit longer rise
 

peteopp

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Appreciate the advice. I still have a 1 free return with S&M, so can try the 48R and see if that fits better. I requested 36pants, so can try 38 pants as well in the exchange.
 

peteopp

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Alright, next is the 48R / 36(pants) S&M. I still see very bad shoulder dimpling. Even though the pictures don't exactly show it, I though the arms draped better and the shoulders didn't feel too large.

I took the 46R S&M and 48R SuitSupply to Harry's tailor in Dallas and he thought the suitSupply suit looked good on me. Of course my body likes the more expensive suit. At $700 now, I don't find SuitSupply all that value for an OTR suit.

So I think my question is, does the suitSupply suit look good enough to justify $700, or would my money be better served going MTM? Not sure if MTM S&M or MTM SuitSupply would look any better than these OTR.

Could use some help and direction folks :)
 

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