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1 Button Tux Question Regarding Buttons

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by rrothsch, Apr 30, 2012.

  1. rrothsch

    rrothsch Well-Known Member

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    I had a 1 button single breasted tux made by WW Chan that I just received today. On the 1 button tux, there is 1 felt button on the outside of the suit jacket and one felt button on the inside of the tux jacket that appear are both attached by the same thread. I have never seen a tux like this so can you please tell me how I’m supposed to button the tux? If I button the exterior button there is a slight crease in the jacket where the interior button is. Yet, if I button the interior button, the tux doesn’t look right. I'm embarassed to say I have worn a suit everyday for the past 10 years but I have never seen something like this. Any help would be appreciated
     
    Last edited: Apr 30, 2012
  2. F. Corbera

    F. Corbera Senior member

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    It is hard to tell from your description, but I am guessing that you have a link button front, which is soigné.

    If so, they button like this:

     
  3. F. Corbera

    F. Corbera Senior member

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    It is hard to tell from your description, but I am guessing that you have a link button front, which is soigné.

    If so, they button like this:


    But, I leave SB dinner jackets unbuttoned.
     
  4. rrothsch

    rrothsch Well-Known Member

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    F.Corbera:

    That's it, looks pretty strange to me. This style is just not my cup of tea so is removing the interior button pretty easy? Frankly, I don't know why WW Chan would give me this type of button if I didn't specifially ask for it. I've ordered 10 suits previously from them and any styling is talked about at our appointments but not on this one.
     
  5. Bounder

    Bounder Senior member

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    Me too. But if you have that kind of set up, isn't it meant to be buttoned? Otherwise, you have either two button holes and no button or a sort of black pom-pom on a string dangling around your midsection.
     
  6. F. Corbera

    F. Corbera Senior member

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    Link buttons work like chained cufflinks, so neither button is an "interior" button. As the photograph that I posted above shows, both buttons face outward when done up.

    When you unbutton it, you would normally loosen the button on your left, leaving the pair in the buttonhole on your right.

    The jacket fronts, thus, have no overlap as is the case in a standard button, just as double/French cuffs on a shirt have no overlap. Again, see the photograph.

    Since you already have facing buttonholes cut, your only easy alternative would be to replace the button on your right with a simple, flat black button. Ideally, Chan would not have used metal-shanked covered buttons for the front...see below:

    [​IMG]

    If it is an unshanked, or linen/silk shanked, covered button, you simple have the button sewn tightly against the simple, flat black button, which lies against the buttonhole on the interior of the jacket.

    If it is metal-shanked, then you might have to have your seamstress test out how tightly she or he can get the interior button.

    The simple, flat black button should be thin and a little greater in diameter than the buttonhole.

    Your jacket would have (or should have) been fitted with no overlap in the fronts in mind. Returning it to a "normal" buttoning would mean some overlap, and a tightening of the waist. Keep this in mind.


    A man who is uncomfortable with the dégagé affect of the link dangle can find a bit of refuge by pulling the right button inside the jacket. So, you dangle on the inside and not on the outside, something is generally advisable in other aspects of social behavior.
     
    Last edited: Apr 30, 2012
  7. Bounder

    Bounder Senior member

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    This is pretty much what you did with your Swiss Army suit, yes?
     
  8. F. Corbera

    F. Corbera Senior member

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    Yes, except the retaining buttonholes are smaller and angled to hold the buttons more precisely into the opposing buttonholes.

    This won't be an option for the OP.

    I wore this suit today, actually.
     
    Last edited: Apr 30, 2012

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