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◆ The JIL SANDER & RAF SIMONS shopper thread ◆

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by _yoo, Dec 29, 2011.

  1. A Fellow Linguist

    A Fellow Linguist Senior member

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    The dark blue one looks knit to me, I can't imagine why they're calling it woven. You can pretty clearly see where they've cast on/bound off.
     
  2. _yoo

    _yoo Senior member

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    I did a bit of googling but to no avail - will defer to you though since you're the resident knit specialist! :alien:

    In other news, there's an aw09 neoprene coat in SUFU b&s right now, my size too, so tempted.

    It's the version with blue as opposed to cream sleeves
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    in the infamous suit-dominated collection. Hapsical's comment is pertinent:
    Cathy Horyn's review of AW09 is also worth reading


    RAF SIMONS Fall 2009

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    Last edited: Dec 29, 2011
    1 person likes this.
  3. Razele

    Razele Senior member

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    Re: Raf

    Raf was the first designer I really liked, I remember my first good kop was a graphic metallic neck from FW08, from Count Kunkula.

    I've got quite a few Raf knits, some pants, tried the sneaks but not my style 100%. I would definitely buy more Raf in the future, if his seasons get better as they have.

    Would still love some Rothko knits and some metallic crew necks.

    Re: Jil

    Fell into Jil after Raf and I usually kop 1 or 2 cardigans per season, sometimes a pullover. I have two of the famous keyhole knits (black/white melange on its way and grey/white melange kopped from ages ago) and the oversized metallic collar cardigan. I got two pairs of shoes and a pair of boots, quality is quite good, far better then Margiela.

    Would definitely buy heaps more Jil. Will kop 1-2 cardigans a season and maybe some outerwear if I find the right piece.
     
    1 person likes this.
  4. jwjp

    jwjp Senior member

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    Could someone explain the whole 'raf/jil is dead' sentiment to me? Is it just his collections have got worse or is there more to it? It seems like I read words to that effect fairly frequently, but I'm never really sure why (noob :embar: )
     
  5. A Fellow Linguist

    A Fellow Linguist Senior member

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    In the early 00s Raf made some really stunning collections with strong youth culture and futurist influences. S/s 02, otherwise known as "Woe Unto Those Who Spit On The Fear Generation . . .The Wind Will Blow It Back" is usually considered his best work. F/w 02 "Virginia Creeper" is my favorite, though, and I think S/s 04 "May the Circle Be Unbroken" is underrated.

    S/S 02 looks like this:
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    Really bold, interesting stuff. Lately though, his shows have been a lot more tame and for lack of a better word, less Raf-y. More suits, knits, and other basic stuff that normal people might want to wear. A lot of people think he's sold out and become more commercial, but IMO the recent collections are still quite good. He uses more couture-like shapes, and relies less on what some might consider gimmicks, like the flares from s/s02, the forest presentation of f/w 02, etc. To me it seems like the people saying "Raf is dead" are usually only familiar with the really extreme stuff from "Woe Unto Those. . .", "Consumed", "Closer", etc. The more recent seasons are pretty similar to his earlier stuff, from the mid to late 90s. F/w 2011, "Rise of the Craftsman" is, to me, like a refined version of F/w 95, his first collection. Same focus on tailoring, school uniform influence, etc. I suck at embedding videos so here.
     
    2 people like this.
  6. Razele

    Razele Senior member

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    I think a lot of people bought into Raf as being avant garde and he got really tailored in his collections after 08 or so, after the Rothko knits?

    Quite a few seasons were pretty bad IMO, but last was better so there is hope.

    At one point people said Jil men's was the new Raf mainline. Certainly was better for some time.
     
  7. A Fellow Linguist

    A Fellow Linguist Senior member

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    Tbh I get recent Jil and Raf collections mixed up in my head a lot, so I can see the argument for that. For a while I thought that Jil collection with the Lambie inspired prints was Raf. And if we're talking about bad Raf seasons, there a quite a few beyond the recent ones. I think Black Palms is terrible. People often cite that Raf beach towel as a sign of his downfall, but nobody ever mentions the stupid Raf x Coca-Cola collab from 98 or whenever it was.

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    ugh.
     
  8. PabloDiablo

    PabloDiablo Well-Known Member

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    The short answer: people who are trying to be hip and trendy go around spouting such nonsense, and media "tastemakers" just add to the problem when they get bored and can't figure out anything else to write about. Ignore them and live better.
     
  9. PabloDiablo

    PabloDiablo Well-Known Member

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    Awesome, thanks for those links, great morning coffee reading! By the way the detail in those sweaters is amazing, really beautiful, with prices to match I'm sure!
     
  10. andrewgreg

    andrewgreg Senior member

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    The dark blue one on oki-ni I think is woven
    The light blue one on LVR I think is first woven(the orange part) and then blue knitted.
     
  11. jwjp

    jwjp Senior member

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    Ah thanks. Were his better collections seen as quite as revolutionary at the time, or is a lot of it hindsight? Like, did people really beast over the collection and buy it up immediately? It seems to me, as someone who has only recently become interested in fashion, that their are plenty of collections in the past (2002 raf, hedi-dior,09 undercover and junya, (i'm sure there are others but that's off the top of my head)) that are seen as really successful and innovative, "game-changing", but their don't seem to me any present-day analogues. Are we just unable to recognise it at the time?
     
  12. Zeemon

    Zeemon Senior member

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    nice thread, i will post photos of my own pieces (i think 10 or 11 items) soon, maybe fitpics

    btw. here is another interview with him, published by german weekly newspaper "die zeit"
    http://www.zeit.de/2011/04/Stardesigner-Raf-Simons/seite-1

    he says that, that he was impressed by the band "kraftwerk" and the book "christiane f. : wir kinder vom bahnhof zoo"
    then they talk about berlin, which is the setting of the book
    and about berlin fashionweek, but he is not sure whether this fashionweek could become relevant internationally.
    they they shortly talk about german designers like jil sander, karl lagerfeld, and wolfgang joop.
    the interviewer asks him if he could imagine living in berlin, raf says that the climate would be too bad
     
    Last edited: Dec 30, 2011
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  13. Keoke

    Keoke Senior member

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    Last edited: Dec 30, 2011
  14. _yoo

    _yoo Senior member

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    ^cool, lvr, oki-ni, mrporter, saks are also starting to receive their ss12 stock, aloharag too but they've yet to post it on their website

    a compilation of recent and forthcoming JIL & Raf pieces as styled by fashion magazines (apologies in advance for those who don't want them lumped together!) mostly culled from this blog



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    Last edited: Dec 30, 2011
  15. ggoofer

    ggoofer Well-Known Member

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    Don't plan on ever wearing that sweater.... I stopped by the Jil Sander Chicago store today: retail is $2800 for the short sleeve version. They had one and it did feel amazing (very durable). But at that price I doubt they will be i stock anywhere
     
    Last edited: Dec 30, 2011
  16. _yoo

    _yoo Senior member

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    damn, that's some insane prices. Thanks for the info!
    i looked it up, the only webstore that has it seems to be oki-ni, but it's already sold out (!).
    I'm hoping this one isn't as expensive
    I haven't seen any knit in the AW11 men's collection that costs over $2k, the women's collection seems to have quite a few, but men's knits are all under $1000 as far as i can tell.
    I wonder who else on SF has a 2k JIL knit other than jet haha
     
    Last edited: Dec 31, 2011
  17. PabloDiablo

    PabloDiablo Well-Known Member

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    Price doesn't surprise me at all, especially given the detail of the knit. You don't see that everyday and I am sure even given the outrageous markup it was still probably very costly to make.
     
  18. andrewgreg

    andrewgreg Senior member

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    i don't think it would be very costly to make it. at least, compare to the price.

    I don't know why raf is doing the cheap plastic rain coat thing, burberry did it before.
     
  19. impolyt_one

    impolyt_one Senior member

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    That knit is really interesting, I like it - but $2800 is pretty dear.
     
  20. Parker

    Parker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    For anyone who wants a general overview of Raf's work: 15 Years of Brilliance
    Not the best writing, but there are lots of images and videos of his past collections. Some of his shows are just amazing on their own.

    I didn't really follow his work in the past, but I've like his recent collections where he's done more tailored stuff. I know people lambast it for not being as radical as his youthful rebellion stuff, but I think it's kinda subversive and cool in its own way.
     

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