Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by gdl203, Aug 15, 2013.
Here is said post so everyone can see it without jumping around
I feel like I will live in regret for passing this one up but something about the chest pockets throws it off for me.
i live in a fairly warm part of australia....I love the eidos field jacket though. So im now looking for jobs in colder countries to justify. Yolo.
Greg/Unbel/Conceptual: Which do you like better, the Fat carter in cement canvas, or in sol leather?
^ I have the Sol. It's a thing of beauty. Long run I feel the leather will age nicely, maybe more so than the canvas?
I think that means stiches wants you to undo another button
Sartoria Formosa tuxedo was restocked in most sizes (well to be exact, one in each size)
... and you were spot on (no surprise). Sizing tips on this awesome mountain parka??????
Riders coat and mountain parka are big winners.
TTS for all outerwear. I take a 42 for example (52 in Formosa, 54 in Cantarelli and Eidos)
The blazers/jackets are on the snug side and we'd recommend sizing up
C, could not agree more with your assessment. Those are some very, very nice pieces of outerwear.
MONITALY FW 2014
As you've heard from us before, as well as some feedback from visitors to the store, the outerwear is just phenomenal so I want to take a chance to focus on that. In person it obviously speaks for itself, but we don't always have that luxury so I'm going to include some of Monitaly's own copy on a few of our pieces so you can get a sense of the thought and ideas behind each of the garments from the makers themselves. They're absorbed in their product enough that they go through this process and write this copy for every one of their pieces, but I thought it would be nice to compile it here.
And in case you missed them, @Synthese 's interview with Yuki for our blog, which give you a good sense of how he operates: Part 1 and Part 2
Mountain parka in 8.25oz waxed canvas
The Mountain Parka is an important staple item in the Monitaly collection. Although mountain parkas rule the market in today's fashion, Monitaly offers the most distinctive and unique piece in this category. This jacket features raglan sleeve construction for functional purposes and for mobility or your arm. The sleeves are two-piece construction for ergonomic shape with gussets at the armpits to improve ease of movement. This parka has two pleats at the shoulder position, making the sleeve hang down instead of spreading out. The effect of these pleats results in a cleaner armhole line and a comfortable fit. The front bottom pockets have sideways hand warmer pockets as well as standard top opening pockets with snap closure flaps. The right front chest pocket has a pen holder with bar-tack reinforcement and the left front chest pocket is a zipper welt pocket for extra security. An extra patch pocket on the right backside is ideal for snack storage. All patch pockets are set with double needle top stitch with extra thick thread and are gusseted for added volume. An attractive design is a decorative western yoke on both front and back. The hood is two-layer fabric construction to hold its shape in a downpour and a handle loop is attached on the outside of hood for easy storage or transport. Full body lining with wool keeps you warm while smooth acetate sleeve lining makes it easy when you slide your arm in and out.
Note on the waist belt. You don’t want to close the waist belt all the time. It is inconvenient to fasten and release the buckle every time you put on and take off the jacket. With the belt not fastened in mind, we set small narrow inner belt at the center back of the belt, hooking the back belt loop. This small secure belt keeps the belt from falling off even when the buckle is not fastened.
All snap fasteners are DOT brand which is manufactured by Scovill; a company with a long standing reputation for quality, value, and performance. Snap closures are sometimes called 'Dot buttons' because Scovill originally popularized snaps with the 'DOT' brand name. All snaps are reinforced with vegetable-tanned leather washers which are skived to the ideal thickness for the application and this detail reinforces the snaps onto the fabric.
Waxed cotton is most often used in hunting and fishing clothing and is practically water and wind proof. There are a couple of manufactures that produce waxed cotton, but the one used for our Mountain Parka is domestically-produced American waxed cotton. It goes through a unique process to apply wax on fabric. Wax is impregnated into yarn with a special technique (this technique is a company top secret that has been passed down from generation to generation). Waxed cotton fabric treated with this special technique has much less wax migration problem without sacrificing its functionality. The wool fabric used on lining is yarn-dyed 100% virgin wool woven in a small town in Italy. The wool is woven with high quality pure virgin wool which goes through many steps before it is woven. The fabric is light, soft and loose yet tight enough to keep the shape of the jacket.
Riders coat in Army blanket wool
Riders Coat has been part of the Monitaly Fall/Winter collection for many years. It is absolutely our staple style and our basic of this double breasted jacket remains the same, while it has never stopped improving pattern and details season after season. Originally designed to be a military motorcycle coat, Monitaly’s Riders Coat was improved to achieve a perfect balance of shoulder, chest and waist volume and a beautiful A-shape look. The length of this jacket is meant to sit below hip, which is right in the middle of the traditional trench coat’s and Pea Coat’s length. You will find a small snap belt and D-ring inside, which helps give you more styling options as this detail allows you to wear the jacket with front button open yet the overall shape of the jacket still looks good. There are five external pockets: two flap pockets on the side, two hand warmer pockets right below the chest, and one rectangle patch zipper pocket on the left chest. The jacket has a separate shoulder yoke with snap closure on both right and left shoulder, which holds the front body when buttoned up all the way to the top. Most of the parts (yoke, edge of jacket, flap, cuff band, collar, back sleeve seam, etc.) are all finished with double needle top stitch for clean finish. Large black melamine buttons are used, which is known for super strong “bullet proof” buttons. These buttons are sewn with “stay button” inside, which prevents it from tearing or button falling by sandwiching the fabric with two buttons; inner and outer.
The fabric used for this particular style is Mil-spec US Army blanket fabric made in one of the oldest woolen mills in the U.S.A. This beautiful army olive color can only be obtained by yarn-dyeing process. It takes several colors of dyed wool fibers to be spun together to create sort of olive mélange yarn, then the yarn is woven together to complete the distinctive army olive finish.
Shawl collar belted field coat (Officer's coat) in Black and Olive
Shawl Field Jacket is a brand-new double-breasted long jacket. Inspired by classic military field coat, we have achieved classic-yet-modern sophisticated style using a combination of herringbone cotton and premium quality wool fabric.
Fairly roomy cut to accommodate bulky inner pieces, such as sweater and sweatshirts, but it is not made to be too bulky at all, so it has got an elegant silhouette. The shawl collar looks just like the one often seen on military field coat, but the pattern has been re-developed to achieve a beautifully-curved shape so that it features a more sophisticated look. Center back vent is set for ease of movement and triangle top stitching finish above the vent break point is a notable detail. This triangle stitching finish is found on both edges of belt loops. Quilted nylon is used for sleeve lining to help keep you warm, but at the same time it won’t lose mobility of your arm in the sleeve. Large black melamine buttons are used, which is known for super strong “bullet proof” buttons. These buttons are sewn with “stay button” inside, which prevents it from tearing or button falling by sandwiching the fabric with two buttons; inner and outer. The other notable detail of this jacket is a made-in-USA belt on the waist. It’s made out of English bridle leather. It comes with shinny nickel buckle and three D-rings. It’s a special-designed belt for this particular jacket.
Outer shell is 100% herringbone cotton and body lining is either jacquard wool “Window Black” or 100% wool US Navy Peacoat fabric. Both wools are manufactured in one of the oldest woolen mills in the USA.
24oz melton wool "Gentleman Jacket" (will be up on the site shortly)
Formerly known as Melton Blazer, has been upgraded to this “Gentleman Jacket” with great additions and improvement in pattern and details. Body is cut to create an “A” shape silhouette and sleeve is positioned slightly forward for ease of movement and comfort. Cuffs are finished with three functional buttons. Gentleman Jacket features a notched lapel with a collar tab. This collar tab on lapel is fully functional as it can help keep you warm if you flip the collar to the other side and close it with button closure. Interior of the jacket is half-lined construction which is that sleeve, front body, and about 1/3 top of the back are lined. It features four external pockets: one on chest, one on waist and the other two on lower sides, and there are two internal double welt pockets at the top and one smaller one in the lower area. Since we love and respect vintage French hunting jacket, we incorporate metal shank buttons with wild animal stamping. These animal buttons are produced domestically in the U.S.A. and stamped carefully one by one. The jacket takes three buttons for front closure, and each one of them is a different animal design: Dog, Rooster, Flying duck, Deer Head, etc. All raw edges are finished with binding, and final finish of this jacket’s hem is done by hand stitching, like the rest of Monitaly jackets.
24oz 100% pure virgin Melton wool is chosen for this jacket. This is not really standard material for sport-coat type of jacket but it’s mostly seen on Navy Pea Coats and varsity jackets as it can stand harsh weather conditions. However, we love the combination of that kind of heavy, tight-woven wind-proof fabric and jackets, such as notched lapel gentleman collar jackets. It creates real uniqueness in style as well as real functionality to stand by.
Geometric stripe blazer
Patch Pocket Blazer incorporates classic three button detail with modern cut, premium quality fabric, and tailored sewing construction. Patch Pocket Blazer has been one of our staple styles for a long time. It has played an important roll of the Monitaly’s collection from the beginning, yet it is still becoming more impressive every season to achieve a better fit and silhouette by paying close attention to details and working on patterns over and over.
There are several details that give the jacket great structure. The outside pockets are lined to give them better shape, there is a classic side slit, and all top stitches are in small stitch counts to give the jacket a cleaner finish. There are three convenient interior double welt pockets inside, and the cuff has three functional buttons. All raw edges, including the center back hem, are finished with binding. One special unique detail that this blazer offers is the roll line lapel. The break point on a blazer is the point where the lapel beings to roll. Unlike others, the break point on our Patch Pocket Blazer is at the middle button instead of the top button as our recommended style is to close the middle button only and leave the top and bottom button open, so that it give it more sophisticated and modern look.
Patch Pocket Blazer creatively interweaves high-quality fabric with tailored sewing construction. It is a classic silhouette that coordinates well with most shirting and bottoms but also affords great independent functionality. This blazer is purposefully designed and intended to be a perfect companion for semi-formal occasions, light traveling, and/or daily casual wear.
We offer a variety of fabrics for our Patch Pocket Blazer in the Fall/Winter 2014 collection.
“Geo Stripe” series are selected, what we believe, to be the perfect weight for blazers and very soft and comfortable to the touch. This 100% wool fabric is domestically manufactured in the U.S.A. This unique geometric and stripe design with beautiful color combination cannot be found anywhere else.
MADE IN U.S.A.
Raglan sleeve zipper jacket in black and grey or brown and olive
Raglan Zipper Jacket is one of our staple styles and has been part of the Monitaly collection for many years. It features a great combination of wool body and American cow leather raglan sleeve. The most distinctive, bold detail would be an angled zipper pocket on the front body which is made with #10 tough long 2-way zippers. Classic raglan sleeve construction with contoured shape makes it a better fit from the shoulder to the cuff. Cuffs and waist band have custom-made 100% wool ribbing adding stripe in contrast color. The result is a taste of classic American school fashion but at the same time it achieves a contemporary look overall because all the details are well-balanced.
3-3.5 oz domestically-tanned cow leather is chosen for sleeve. The jacket can be worn for years and years and the aging process of this leather will be amazing and enjoyable. Front and back body is made out of Mil-spec US Army blanket fabric, which is made in one of the oldest woolen mills in the U.S.A. This beautiful army olive color can only be obtained by yarn-dyeing process. It takes several colors of dyed wool fibers to be spun together to create sort of olive mélange yarn, then the yarn is woven together to complete the distinctive army olive finish. Inside of the jacket is fully lined with the Italian nice and smooth viscose lining.
Wore this tie for the first time today. Greg might remember my contemplating it and its sibling for 10 minutes, hand under chin, thinker's pose when I visited NMWA. The sibling is still available on sale (Drake's). Nice and slubby, wool for winter.
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