One day you too will wear the low gorge.

DocHolliday · Apr 10, 2008

Originally Posted by Most MC posters

Buy top quality so it will last for many years

Originally Posted by MC posters in B&S

That coat looks really dated -- must be at least 10 years old.

We talk a lot about avoiding the whims of fashion, but the trends, they do have a grip on MC. The super high gorge, the narrowish lapels, the incredibly slim and short coats. One day, in the not too distant future, these will be the styling cues used to identify "dated" suits in the B&S forum. I'm curious as to people's thoughts on the matter. Can you see yourself wearing a low gorge or huge shoulder pads when they're back in fashion? Will you update your wardrobe to reflect the changing trends? Or will your styling preferences get stuck in time, like old men who think it's still 1973?

P.S. Before someone gives me the "classic style/conservative makers" spiel, I'll note that even stodgy ol' Oxxford dates -- just think of how many are dismissed for sad lapels and low gorges.

itsstillmatt · Apr 10, 2008

I don't like the super high gorges or the tight shoulders, and I don't care for narrow lapels. I like the shorter jackets, but not too short. I hope to keep wearing my **** 'cause I paid for it.

You do make a good point.

voxsartoria · Apr 10, 2008

I try to ignore it all. For example:

I wore a low gorge, ventless, very, very narrow lapel early 60s vintage Oxxford coat today in a really nice reddish brown tweed. Patch out pockets and breast pocket...the breast pocket being an especially deft example of such.

Mixed it with a current issue Oxxford cashmere square end knit tie with horizontal stripes, white BB Black Fleece OCBD with my initials in white below the breast pocket (yikes! but I only do that with BB OCBDs, an homage to my youth), really slim, ridiculously rich brown cotton Trussardi chinos with big cuffs from the late 90s, and reverse calf Alden split toe bluchers.

Perhaps every detail was wrong. But, I thought I looked rather harmonious strolling down Newbury Street enjoying a nice spring day, despite the collision of different decades in what I was wearing.

I took a three hour lunch. It was that kind of day.

- B

Manton · Apr 10, 2008

There is dated and then there is dated -- good dated and bad dated.

Some styles are clearly "of" a certain time, but look great today anyway. The slim cut, narrow lapel early '60s look, for instance, gets a lot of love here. Dated? Sort of. But so what.

It's the stuff that didn't look good when new that's a problem. I put the mid '80s football pads, low gorge, and trouser fly level buttoning point look into that category.

It's an open question whether the current rash of faux-Napoli RTW will ever look dated. I like it more than Matt does, but I wonder ...

DocHolliday · Apr 10, 2008

Originally Posted by Manton

There is dated and then there is dated -- good dated and bad dated.

Some styles are clearly "of" a certain time, but look great today anyway. The slim cut, narrow lapel early '60s look, for instance, gets a lot of love here. Dated? Sort of. But so what.

It's the stuff that didn't look good when new that's a problem. I put the mid '80s football pads, low gorge, and trouser fly level buttoning point look into that category.

It's an open question whether the current rash of faux-Napoli RTW will ever look dated. I like it more than Matt does, but I wonder ...

But did the football pads and low gorge look bad at the time? I suspect everything looks dated, sooner or later. Some styles age better than others, but still. If everyone started wearing low-gorge, big-shouldered suits, that faux neapolitan would look starkly out of place, don't you think?

Manton · Apr 10, 2008

I would still hate the Hugo Boss look even if it dominated and the made the faux Napoli look out of place.

The point is, some looks have a certain aesthetic integrity that appeals accross the years. I think that is true of '30s Savile Row, '50s American Trad, and early '60s Italy. It's not true of (say) '70s Cop Show/Herb Tarlek.

voxsartoria · Apr 10, 2008

In all seriousness, I think that Doc's original question is sadly superfluous, since it presumes a cyclical continuation of tailored clothing as the dominant sartorial signature of different periods.

What does 2008 look like?

To me, it looks like this:

99% of men do not know, do not care, do not feel that they need tailored clothes except as occasional costume.

1% of men do know, do care, and do feel they have inherited something from the past worth living.

I suspect that tailored clothes will go the way of the mechanical watch in our lifetime, if it has not done so already in the United States.

There will be no more real cycles, just general entropy and historical emulation and recapitulation, and a dogged, inbred minority of clothing hobbyists.

- B

bucephalus · Apr 10, 2008

To me, high gorge suits look like leisure suits. Usually too many buttons and too little opportunity for the tie.

TheFoo · Apr 10, 2008

I think trends sometimes have the benefit of shedding light on options or details that one hasn't thought of before. For example, although high gorges are certainly in fashion at the moment, I think they objectively look better on me, too. Gorge height was not something I knew to think about a couple of years ago.

But I think you're right. All fashions come and go. It's only a matter of time before people want their low gorges and power shoulders again, even if they're slightly different than in the last go-around.

tlmusic · Apr 11, 2008

Originally Posted by DocHolliday

Or will your styling preferences get stuck in time, like old men who think it's still 1973?
For the last 20 years or so, my dress clothes styling preferences have been stuck in time, but a distant time--about 1935 or so. It's worked so far... Sometimes I flirt with 1965 when feeling adventurous

denning · Apr 11, 2008

Bucephalus,
You are confusing gorge with buttoning point. Big difference.

Originally Posted by bucephalus

To me, high gorge suits look like leisure suits. Usually too many buttons and too little opportunity for the tie.

alliswell · Apr 11, 2008

Originally Posted by bucephalus

To me, high gorge suits look like leisure suits. Usually too many buttons and too little opportunity for the tie.
Welcome. Class is in session. http://styleforum.net/showthread.php?p=867041

Gus · Apr 11, 2008

On most things, I am influenced by traditional and current styles but not to an extreme. That way I get a lot of use out of my clothing. But every now and then I love to buy something very stylish and fashionable that I know might look silly in a year or two and thats OK. But, once something is dated looking, I just let it go. There are so many cool new things to take it's place. There is no reason to keep it.

Despos · Apr 11, 2008

Saw flared, almost bell bottom trousers today on a Prada store window display. Have seen them in a YSL add as well.

When bell bottoms came around in the late 70's I held out as long as I could. Did not care for them, but eventually started wearing them.

I am just now getting into Neopolitan styling, no shoulder pads, etc., so it must be time for that style to go. I am not the early bird.

I've worn a suit almost every day since 1978 and the style I wear has not changed that much. I change details like cuffs or plain bottom, belt loops or no loops, pocket flaps, patch pockets and so on, but the basic silhouette of of what I wear has not changed much. You have to wear what works for your body type and personality. Not everyone is built to wear trim, close fitting clothes, or big shouldered, padded jackets. When you find your personal style it feels right to stick with it regardless of trends.

itsstillmatt · Apr 11, 2008

Originally Posted by Despos

I am just now getting into Neopolitan styling, no shoulder pads, etc., so it must be time for that style to go. I am not the early bird.

Please don't mention this to Yachtie. I don't think his poor heart could take it.

One day you too will wear the low gorge.

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