Custom Suiting Toronto

TOstyle · May 8, 2014

I have recently moved back to Toronto, and am getting back into the market for custom suiting after having been gone for a number of years. It looks like there has been a lot of activity in custom menswear since I've been gone, which is great to see. Fortunately, it looks like my personal knowledge is a little dated, and I've read through most (I won't say all...) posts specifically Toronto related but I thought a refresher would be helpful.

To help guide responses, I'm looking for custom suiting but do not have a preference between MTM or bespoke. I have bought both in the past, and have lots of MTM that fit better as compared to (I was told...) full bespoke. My buying ethos is good quality and great value, without worrying about name brands or getting caught up in "luxury" products (often just a reason to charge a higher mark-up). Places I have had experience with are Harry Rosen (unimpressed with the Samuelsohn/ Coppley boxy fits), Trend, Green Shag, Gotstyle and Holts, off the top of my head.

Budget is anywhere from $800 to $2000 for suits, depending on the fabric of course, and $200 for shirts is cool. I don't care about the name, I just want a good quality fit - that's always the most important thing.

What's worth checking out now?

TOstyle · Jun 14, 2014

Nothing on this? Even a response to chide me for not reading EVERY SINGLE post on this forum before asking this question - but which perhaps might have a link to a more recent thread that would be useful?

dappercanadian · Jun 14, 2014

http://www.blogto.com/toronto/the_best_bespoke_tailors_in_toronto/

Bespoke > M2M

addedfuel · Jun 14, 2014

Depending on your size, Suitsupply is always a great choice.

Everybody knows of Garrison Bespoke thanks to their great marketing and proximity to Financial District. They are very trendy but I don't see value.

Great reviews of Trend Custom Tailor and Michel's Bespoke though I have never tried any of them.

dappercanadian · Jun 14, 2014

This is ******* cool.

http://garrisonbespoke.com/custom-suits/bulletproof-suit/

Master-Classter · Jun 14, 2014

yeah a lot of options and I haven't used any of them personally...

basically shops where you can access MTM programs like Harrys, Holts, GotStyle, Brooks Brothers etc
there's MTM companies like Garrison, Xavier, House of Salgado, some new one I read about on BlogTO upstairs somewhere, etc
and bespoke in all it's levels like Trend etc

actually come to think of it I'm a little outdated on local info myself it seems

linds_15 · Jun 14, 2014

dappercanadian said:
http://www.blogto.com/toronto/the_best_bespoke_tailors_in_toronto/

Bespoke > M2M

are most of these not MTM? im not familiar with all of them, but rosen is MTM, and it was my understanding so was garrison. also any of the travelling tailors can't be bespoke can they? wouldnt a travelling tailor have to be MTM?

@dappercanadian you posted a great link for the question asked, im referring to the link itself being best bespoke tailors

dappercanadian · Jun 14, 2014

linds_15 said:
are most of these not MTM? im not familiar with all of them, but rosen is MTM, and it was my understanding so was garrison. also any of the travelling tailors can't be bespoke can they? wouldnt a travelling tailor have to be MTM?

@dappercanadian you posted a great link for the question asked, im referring to the link itself being best bespoke tailors

Rosen on Bloor (Flagship store) is the only location that offers Bespoke. In regards to Garrison, I'm pretty sure it's a bespoke shop.

spiermackay · Jun 14, 2014

Toronto is getting a bit crowded in the MTM custom suit market. Quality is all over the place. A good majority is MTM. The only bespoke joints that come to mind is Trend Custom Tailors and Harry's on Bloor. Traveling tailors are a crap shoot and not bespoke at all.

Just to clear up: Bespoke, a pattern is drafted from scratch. Usually by the person who does the measuring as well. Then multiple fittings with basted pieces to check the fit, until everything is perfect then the suit is finalized and finished. Process can take several months.
Style options are unlimited, as the pattern is from scratch.

MTM: The suit is based on an existing pattern. Size is adjusted against the pattern block (sleeve lengthened/shorted, waist in/out, etc). Styling options are usually finite, if not considerably limited. For 90% of men out there, this will end up as a very well fitting suit.

linds_15 · Jun 14, 2014

Rosen on Bloor (Flagship store) is the only location that offers Bespoke. In regards to Garrison, I'm pretty sure it's a bespoke shop.

thanks, forgot about the bloor location

MTM: The suit is based on an existing pattern. Size is adjusted against the pattern block (sleeve lengthened/shorted, waist in/out, etc). Styling options are usually finite, if not considerably limited. For 90% of men out there, this will end up as a very well fitting suit.

who or when do you think that 10% applies?

Master-Classter · Jun 14, 2014

probably traveling tailors

I'd argue MTM often starts out worse than OTR but after a couple of iterations gets better

spiermackay · Jun 15, 2014

linds_15 said:
who or when do you think that 10% applies?

Sorry its probably closer to 3-5% after looking at some numbers last night a bit more closely. Generally it applies to men who are way, way off standard. For example men with a very heavy stooped posture. This causes a lot of problems in mtm because the pattern can only be adjusted so much before it no longer serves its purpose. Also short and very stalky men. The problem is the shoulder. They can be stalky and have narrow shoulder compared to their chest and midsection. The shoulder can only be narrowed marginally to accommodate. In the end with mtm you still end up with a wide shoulder in this case.

The way we avoid this is all patterns are drafted from scratch. This allows greater proportion control and flexibility. It may not be 100% true bespoke as we still send the work out but certainly allows for us to fit certain body types better and offer unlimited options.

TOstyle · Jun 15, 2014

Thanks for the replies, though based on the responses it seems like I'm not exactly missing anything - as in there isn't a new shop that has opened up that I didn't know about.

For what it's worth, since this quickly denigrated into a discussion of MTM versus bespoke, having bought among a wide range of price/ quality points from OTR to MTM to bespoke, I don't think it's possible to make a definite statement that bespoke is better than made to measure. I say that both in terms of fit, and in price point -- and you always have to take price into account. I would admit that bespoke wins hands down on the "romantic" angle, with basted fittings and more hand stitching...but just because you do that doesn't mean the jacket will ultimately fit or wear better. The long-term quality of the stitching is often much looser on bespoke, and in any event bespoke doesn't have a monopoly in hand stitching. Lot of good MTM shops that do a full canvas, hand stitched product (even though it doesn't qualify as bespoke). It took me roughly 10 years to realize that though.

I agree with linds_15 that most of these are MTM shops that just masquerade as bespoke (Trend excepted). The travelling tailors are the worst offenders. I hate that - a little honesty would be nice, especially since there is absolutely nothing to be ashamed of with MTM.

Anyway, looks like I'm on my own for trying out new places. Call it an adventure...

dappercanadian · Jun 15, 2014

TOstyle said:
Thanks for the replies, though based on the responses it seems like I'm not exactly missing anything - as in there isn't a new shop that has opened up that I didn't know about.

For what it's worth, since this quickly denigrated into a discussion of MTM versus bespoke, having bought among a wide range of price/ quality points from OTR to MTM to bespoke, I don't think it's possible to make a definite statement that bespoke is better than made to measure. I say that both in terms of fit, and in price point -- and you always have to take price into account. I would admit that bespoke wins hands down on the "romantic" angle, with basted fittings and more hand stitching...but just because you do that doesn't mean the jacket will ultimately fit or wear better. The long-term quality of the stitching is often much looser on bespoke, and in any event bespoke doesn't have a monopoly in hand stitching. Lot of good MTM shops that do a full canvas, hand stitched product (even though it doesn't qualify as bespoke). It took me roughly 10 years to realize that though.

I agree with linds_15 that most of these are MTM shops that just masquerade as bespoke (Trend excepted). The travelling tailors are the worst offenders. I hate that - a little honesty would be nice, especially since there is absolutely nothing to be ashamed of with MTM.

Anyway, looks like I'm on my own for trying out new places. Call it an adventure...

Please do let us know how it goes. It would be neat to get a chronicle of what Toronto has to offer in terms of custom suits!

7_rocket · Jun 15, 2014

dappercanadian said:
Please do let us know how it goes. It would be neat to get a chronicle of what Toronto has to offer in terms of custom suits!

I know of some.

http://im-label.com/
http://www.empirecustoms.ca/
http://www.houseofsalgado.com/
http://www.carusofinetailoring.com/

I've gotten my dress shirts from Im-Label but I stopped going as I have enough shirts.

I don't have any experience with the others. This was off top of my head

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Definitely full canvas only

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