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How to build a wardrobe from zero?

Jazz

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A week or so ago, I got invited to the lounge at the W, and was looking through my closet and realized that there isn't a single thing that I want to wear. I really feel scrapping everything in my closet and going significantly more upscale. Right now, I wear denim (no not premium) with cheeky T-shirts that say things like "I can only make one person happy per day. Today isn't your day, and tomorrow isn't looking good either."

I realized that this projects the wrong image about me, and makes me unpresentable in 7/10 of social circles, and in social circles where I can be presented, I am not perceived in a way that I like.

Now, that I have told you the story of my life :p, I am asking: "If you woke up one day and had nothing in your closet, and had to do it all over again what would you get?"

Bear in mind that I am 23, and spend 40% of my time in classrooms, seminars, and academic conferences and that I have a budget of roughly 1400$.
 

ghulkhan

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Personally, I dont think you can put together a wardrobe with 1400 dollars over a weekend. Think of your wardobe as ever evolving. Buy things you love and make them a part of youre new wardrobe. Dont go and blow 1400 over the course of next week. It takes a long time to buiild a great wardrobe of things you love.

With that said and with a 1400 dollars to spare I would recomend:
A pair of nice shoes you like --buy them off of ebay. Many people would reccomend Allen Edmonds but personally I dont like the styling of the shoes.

There are so many other options

but for jeans
for 100 dollars I would reccomend APC NS. You should stick to dark denim I think..
 

Sartorian

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I've switched my wardrobe over from one you describe you presently have to something far better, but it's taken a few months.

1. I got two pairs of AE shoes off ebay for $20 each. I like them because they are dressy and they actually feel much better to wear.

2. I got a couple of seasonal sport coats from Uniqlo, then spent the money to get them tailored to fit right.

3. I got several custom shirts made.

4. I got a dress belt to match my shoes, and some nice, colored and patterned socks.

5. I continue to buy a few ties, and linen pocket squares.

Of these, I'd not skimp on the shoes or the shirts. The rest, you can get away with discount or chain stores (like the sport coats, etc.) Zara, H & M and Uniqlo all have good things. We have all those in NYC, but I know they're not as common in other places. If you don't have those places, you could try BRepublic or J.Crew.

If you are sized in an average way, it'll be easier and cheaper for you.

Just remember, the tailoring is key. Get everything to fit--make sure shirt cuffs show when you wear a jacket, and that your pant hems are the right height. You can buy OTR shirts, but drop the dough to get them to fit. People really notice your outfit when it fits you well, mainly b/c most people wear clothes that DON'T fit them well.
 

Sator

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Start from the ground up - get good shoes first and foremost. The suggestion for AEs is always a good one. Wear quality socks.

Next, try to replace jeans as much as you can with cotton trousers - khaki and navy are the most versitile colours.

Try to always wear nice shirts. If you can try to get them custom made, or else look through this site for quality RTW brands that fit you.

Lastly, get a sportcoat. They are wearable at conferences with a tie. A linen one is great for summer plus a heavier worsted or tweed coat would be ideal. A navy blazer with grey flannel trousers will get you by in many situations (unless you are in the UK) and can also be dressed down. A suit for formal presentations at conferences should be your long term aspiration.
 

Tarmac

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Whatever you do, don't blow the $1400 in one weekend. You'll regret it. I usually regret almost any time I get more than 3 items in a weekend.

Since you said you don't like anything you have right now, anything new is gonna feel great. Just get a pair of shoes, 1-2 good shirts, and I would recommend getting a nice blazer at a thrift shop and getting it fitted.
 

Faded501s

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It's hard to give advice with such a vague question. I'm not sure where you are, but here in Chicago I consider the W as one of the trendier kind of upscale types of joints...depending on whether you go downstairs (which is usually dressier) or to the top floor Whiskey Bar. As a practice, we always start our nights out at Whiskey Bar and then head out to a variety of places, one of which is a semi-exclusive jazz club on Rush owned by a friend of mine. In all of these places you can easily get away with jeans, a polo and tennis shoes (not that this is my own personal style).

In other locations, say NYC, the dress code might be more stringent but that is kind of beside the point. What you need to figure out is your own personal style. How do you want to dress. Probably the best way to do this is to look around and emulate someone else's look.

$1400 can get you a lot if you are willing to be patient and check out local sales, discount stores (like Marshalls or TJ Maxx) or watch ebay. My personal recommendation would be something like this:

2 pairs of shoes at $75 each. A black lace-up and a brown loafer (I prefer monks).
2 matching belts at $40 each.
3 pairs of wool slacks at $50 each. Black, Gray and Tan.
3 pairs of khakis (optional) at $30 each.
1 or 2 pairs of jeans at $100 each. Darker = dressier.
2 sport jackets at $30 each. Black, Grey, Navy, Tan, Taupe. Solid or houndstooth or...
5-10 cotton shirts that button down the front at $40 each.
5-10 wool or cotton tops that don't button down at $40 each. V-necks, mock turtles, crews, etc.

So all of that comes to about $1400. Prices are a mid-range. If you're very patient you can get quality items even cheaper. There are also some very good items here on SF in Buying and Selling.
 

lakewolf

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Your list ist very right Faded501s, but sports coats for $30 ? seems a little low to me... I'd buy a good navy blazer ( with horn buttons ) for $100 and maybe a windowpane in brown colors for another $100 and you can have them covered. They would go with the trousers, khakis and jeans. Instead of $100 jeans you could buy Levi's 501's from $30 ( one dark one faded ) and the budget is still right
 

Milhouse

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I agree with others that you shouldn't spend all your money at once. Buy a few items at first, wear them, and see what you like and don't like. For example, get a pair of khakis and a casual button front shirt or polo shirt. Wear that every now and then and pay attention to fit and feel of the fabric. You want to develop your taste before you start spending big money on wool trousers, suits, etc.

One of the biggest things I learned when I was making the transition to professional attire was to feel the fabric as I shop. Previously, I'd go into a store, spot what I needed, grab my size, pay and leave. I never paid attention to whether or not the fabric felt nice.

Shoes are the most difficult thing for me to buy. I am extremely picky about shoes, so I don't have much general advice for you on that topic.
 

Faded501s

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Originally Posted by lakewolf
but sports coats for $30 ? seems a little low to me...

Instead of $100 jeans you could buy Levi's 501's from $30 ( one dark one faded ) and the budget is still right


most here seem to want something a little more "special" but a big +1 on the 501's
smile.gif


As far as $30 for sport coats, I've become very proficient at getting stuff that fits off of ebay. They're practically giving them away. Canali, Corneliani, Oxxford, RLBL and even some "better" brands can be had at that price...including S/H. And no they're not some dated or crazy looking things.
 

AlanC

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1) Burn all the cheeky t-shirts.

2) Go shopping over the weekend at some thrift shops, Marshall's, etc., and put together some basic khakis, dress shirts and casual shirts for cheap.

3) Start cruising ebay and the SF Buying & Selling for the right clothes and shoes. Take your time.

4) Keep thrift shopping. Get good at it. Buy things for yourself then start picking up odd things to flip to give you more money for more ebay, discount shop and SF Buying & Selling shopping.
 

Jazz

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this is acually gold,

@Faded501s
Thanks for the list, I actually printed it out and will be taking it with me on my next expedition to Downtown Montreal.
 

bigbris1

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1. Get a real grasp of the look you want

You need a goal. Surely, you've seen or even know someone who dresses with a style you like, & want to adopt. Notice the pieces they are wearing. Notice how it's put together & how it fits.

2. Know your measurements

Invest in a tape measure. Go to a department store with a varying selection & try some stuff on, a lot of stuff. Get used to the feel & take note of the fit & sizes. This includes shoes.

3. Style 101

Start with the basics. Make an informed list of items that you wish to acquire & how much you're willing to spend on each item.

4. Begin the hunt

Armed with you newfound knowledge of how you wish to look & what size you are, as well as your true measurements, body & foot, start searching department store sales, ebay & depending where you live, thrift shops for a few items you feel comfortable with taking a chance on.

5. Don't over spend

Think twice before pulling the trigger on an item because it can be found cheaper. The more items I acquire, the less I'm willing to spend on any given item, because now I know they can be had for pennies with some good searching.

Example "maximum I'm willing to spend" budget:

1. At least one well fitting 100% wool suit, probably charcoal gray. $100
2. A pair of antique brown calf shoes $150
3. A pair of loafers/slip-ons $100
4. 2 sport coats $150
5. 4 pairs of wool trousers $200
6. Socks $50
7. 5 dress shirts $125
8. 3 ties $50
9. A new fragrance $50

So far you are under $100 & have what you need to start out. As you become more comfortable with your new look & acquire a better sense of what works best, you will make even more informed purchases.

Personally, I would do a daily search on ebay & get every item at a fraction of the retail price & save a boatload. I wish you success & if you want help with the ebay search, give me your sizes & I'll help.
 

yeayea

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im in a similar situation and need to build a work wardrobe (business casual) within the next 2 weeks .. my current work situation calls for jeans, sneaks, shorts, flip-flops.. come as you are.. so i need to build up something from scratch for my new job.. because i need so much, i will need to keep individual costs low..

any tips for shopping on ebay? is there a thread on this already?

also, what is the board opinion on discount clothes shops like Syms and Marshalls? What should I look out for? What should I avoid?
 

Jazz

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another quick question, black cotton sport socks or black (dress) socks? Patterns and designs on the socks, is there any logic to it? Edit: God I hate being a noob
frown.gif
 

Parker

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Originally Posted by bigbris1
1. Get a real grasp of the look you want
You need a goal. Surely, you've seen or even know someone who dresses with a style you like, & want to adopt. Notice the pieces they are wearing. Notice how it's put together & how it fits.


+1

Develop your personal style. Know what you want and learn how it should fit. It'll save you lots of money and time in the long run. In the short run, I'm with Alan. Burn those tees immediately. Get theeself to 'shalls and pick up a few inexpensive dress shirts. And don't forget to tuck them in.

Oh, and hang around here to learn more than you'd ever thought possible about men's clothing. Good luck.
 

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