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Yohji, Or How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love The Looser Fit (Yohji Yamamoto Thread)

Ivwri

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Love Yohji's work?
Curious about it?
Think it might work for you but scared to take the plunge?
Looking for good deals on Yohji clothing & merchandise?
Want tips and advice on pairing Yohji with other designers?
Want fit pics?
Building a wardrobe?

Inspired by _yoo's post over on RFT about the need for more designer specific threads, I have decided to take the plunge and create a designer thread dedicated to my own favourite designer. I know Yohji is not one of the more popular designers on here, but maybe this thread can help a little bit with that. Please feel free to add information, images, interview excerpts or ask questions. Everything Yohji should hopefully go here.

Asobu where are you?? :hide:

Anyway, some information:

Yohji Yamamoto currently has 6 main lines. Yohji Yamamoto (women's line), Yohji Yamamoto Pour Homme (men's line), Y's (women's diffusion label), Y-3 (adidas collabo), Yohji Yamamoto +NOIR and S'yte (online-only T-shirt and accessories line).

Legacy Lines include Y's for Men, Yohji Yamamoto Costume D'Homme and COMING SOON.

Main website
Y-3
s'yte

Voguepedia entry for Yohji. (Thanks for suggestion pickpackpockpuck)


Design aesthetic and philosophy.

Yohji is known primarily for his baggy/loose/unstructured/anti-fit silhouettes cast in flowing black wool gabardine fabrics and elements of androgyny in his work. He is also known for asymmetry, distressed finishes and textures, raw seams, intentionally disheveled looking clothes and using traditional Japanese textile techniques (dyeing, wrapping and embroidery) and creating clothing that envelopes the wearer like loose fitting armor.

As a fashion designer, Yohji Yamamoto generally exists outside trends and creates clothes that are inspired by his homeland, Japan, as well as multiple cultures around the world. If he could be said to have a unifying theme throughout all his work, it could be that he attempts to design clothes that have already aged even before being worn. Clothing that wraps around the body in the same way that one's favourite sweater or jacket does after years of use. A familiarity that brings with it a coziness and security that cannot be found in brand new clothing that has just been picked up off the rack. To protect the wearer and his/her identity from prying eyes. Or to project this identity from the comfort of a familiar and comfortable fort.

Yohji's clothing may seem difficult to wear and acquire, but paradoxically, they are made for the everyman and everywoman. Clothing that can be thrown on without a care in the world and without concessions to what is in vogue today or was in style yesterday. The Yohji man should know that he is not perfect and most likely, never will be. And that's okay. It is with this arrogance and humility that one wears Yohji Yamamoto's clothes.

----------------------------------

Some Yohji collaborations

Dr. Martens x Yohji Yamamoto
Mandarina Duck x Yohji Yamamoto
Hermes x Yohji Yamamoto

----------------------------------

Yohji on film and stage

Notebook on Cities & Clothes (directed by Wim Wenders)
costuming for "Brother" (directed by Takeshi "Beat" Kitano)
costuming for "Dolls" (directed by Takeshi "Beat" Kitano)
costuming for Tristan und Isolde (directed by Heiner Muller)
costuming for Elton John's "The Red Piano"
This is My Dream (directed by Theodore Stanley)

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Online stockists

Atelier New York
Barneys
Farfetch
Forward Forward by Revolve
Hervia Bazaar
Ikkon
Just One Eye & Just One Eye Accessories (Thanks for the links _yoo!)
Lazzari Online Store (seems to be accesories only at the moment, and they stock Y'x Mandarina Duck collabo stuff, but you never know)
LN-CC
Penelope (also online as Public Store Five)
Rakuten
Wrong Weather (solid selection of Y's clothing and shoes on deep discount. Not sure if stock will be updated with new season and/or mainline pieces though)
Yoox

Auction Sites
Yahoo Japan auctions
eBay

----------------------------------

Codes for various seasons.

HB -- SS 95, SS 00, AW 06, SS12
HC -- SS 99, AW10
HE -- AW 95, SS 02, AW 08
HF -- SS 96
HG -- AW 96
HI -- AW 97
** -- SS 98, AW 04, SS 10
HM -- AW 02, SS 08
HN -- AW 99, AW 05
HO - SS 93, SS 11
HP - AW 93, AW 11
HQ -- SS 03
HR -- SS 06
HS -- AW92
HT -- SS 94, AW 00, SS 07
HU -- SS97, AW 03
HV -- AW 94, AW 01, SS 09
HX -- SS 01, AW 07
HY -- AW 98, SS 05
HZ -- SS 04, AW 09

----------------------------------

Sizing advice

Please bear in mind that the sizing information below is strictly a guide and that as always, getting measurements or trying on the items themselves is the only way to know with any sort of accuracy whether a piece is going to work for you.

Older Yohji pieces were sized with the typical S/M/L labels. The more recent collections use a numbering system with 1 being the equivalent of XS/44, 2 - S/46, 3 - M/48, 4 - L/50, 5 - XL/52...With the FW11 season, stores in the US and EU have gotten items in sizes 1, 3 and 5 with 1 being the rough equivalent of 1 and 2, 3 being the rough equivalent of 3 and 4 and 5 being approximately 5 and 6. It was only for some tailored items like shirts and jackets from what I understand, and not across board.

Asobu on Yohji sizing -

The term one-sized gets thrown around a lot but in fact very few pieces in a certain collection are produced in just one size, if any at all. The garments that are generally one sized are knits and t-shirts, those are often just produced in sz 3 (roughly equivalent to M/48). Some pants are one sized but those are quite rare, at least for the last 10 years. The ss08 ronin pants with the button construction is the one pair I can think of from the last few years, though there might be a few others I've missed. In fact, he's done several pants with clever button construction on the waistband that still came in different sizes (for instance aw04).

However, post-03/04 the pants are cut quite generously in the waist. It's not totally uncommon for pants in sz 3 to measure 18"+ in the waist - though there are exceptions of course - they are indeed meant to be bunched up with a belt or worn with suspenders, and they do fall correctly on the body. The specific pair (I think) you refer to definitely came in sz 2 and 4 as well, though it should be mentioned that those are some of the widest pants he's cut during the last few years and might not be the best place to start if you've never worn Yohji before. The typical YYPH cut is the wide pants with drawstring in the waist, those often come in the regular size set 2/3/4 and are huge in the waist. The ones on LN-CC this season measured 43" in the waist for a sz 2 (S).

About sizing in general:

The regular size run is 2, 3 and 4. This aw11 season they changed it up a bit and started selling 1 (XS) in the west, before those was usually only sold in japan in very small numbers. There are also sz 5 and 6 for the western market (not sold in Japan), those are also quite rare. A sz 6 is never ever a one size item though I've seen some sellers claim them to be.

A good way to approach Yohji sizing is to think about height rather than width, if you're tall you should probably size up one so the inseam is long enough, no matter how the waist is cut. This goes for jackets as well, you get the intended balance in length and sleeve length. It's a common "mistake" to size down because the measurements look big, remember that it's often better to size up than down when it comes to Yohji.

Also note that this refers to the mainline, the Y's pants are often cut considerably slimmer in the waist (with exceptions as always).

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My Dear Bomb Preview PDF
Yohji Yamamoto - Processes and techniques via V&A

----------------------------------

RECENT EDIT (23/06/2012) - List of Runway photos and videos posted in the thread listed here for easier browsing.

Runway shots

Various photos from older YYPH seasons 1984 - 1999 - http://www.styleforum.net/t/280641/...it-yohji-yamamoto-thread/1560_30#post_5546010

Random runway photos between '89 - '94 - http://www.styleforum.net/t/280641/...fit-yohji-yamamoto-thread/450_30#post_5223611

YY S/S 1990 "Pina" collection a few pics - http://www.styleforum.net/t/280641/...fit-yohji-yamamoto-thread/360_30#post_5204824

YYPH A/W 1995, S/S1996, A/W1996 - http://www.styleforum.net/t/280641/...fit-yohji-yamamoto-thread/480_30#post_5234443

YY A/W 1996 - http://www.styleforum.net/t/280641/...fit-yohji-yamamoto-thread/120_30#post_5101486

YYPH S/S 1998 - http://www.styleforum.net/t/280641/...it-yohji-yamamoto-thread/1290_30#post_5497152

YYPH S/S 2001 - http://www.styleforum.net/t/280641/...fit-yohji-yamamoto-thread/930_30#post_5366697

YYPH S/S 2002 - http://www.styleforum.net/t/280641/...fit-yohji-yamamoto-thread/360_30#post_5172040

YY S/S 2002 - http://www.styleforum.net/t/280641/...fit-yohji-yamamoto-thread/450_30#post_5223791

YYPH A/W 2003 - http://www.styleforum.net/t/280641/...fit-yohji-yamamoto-thread/360_30#post_5195337

YYPH S/S 2004 - http://www.styleforum.net/t/280641/...fit-yohji-yamamoto-thread/120_30#post_5100157

YY A/W 2004 - http://www.styleforum.net/t/280641/...fit-yohji-yamamoto-thread/540_30#post_5243401

YY A/W 2004 - http://www.styleforum.net/t/280641/...it-yohji-yamamoto-thread/1200_30#post_5471152

Y-3 S/S 2005 - http://www.styleforum.net/t/280641/...it-yohji-yamamoto-thread/1260_30#post_5497035

YYPH A/W 2006 - http://www.styleforum.net/t/280641/...it-yohji-yamamoto-thread/1050_30#post_5434084

YYPH A/W 2007 - http://www.styleforum.net/t/280641/...fit-yohji-yamamoto-thread/780_30#post_5330745

YYPH S/S 2008 - http://www.styleforum.net/t/280641/...fit-yohji-yamamoto-thread/750_30#post_5330032

YYPH THE MEN 4.1.2010 - http://www.styleforum.net/t/280641/...fit-yohji-yamamoto-thread/300_30#post_5152105

YYPH S/S 2012 & F/W 2011 - http://www.styleforum.net/t/280641/...r-fit-yohji-yamamoto-thread/0_30#post_5070857

Y's S/S 2012 - http://www.styleforum.net/t/280641/...fit-yohji-yamamoto-thread/930_30#post_5354666

YYPH A/W 2012 - http://www.styleforum.net/t/280641/...fit-yohji-yamamoto-thread/240_30#post_5127741

YY A/W 2012 - http://www.styleforum.net/t/280641/...fit-yohji-yamamoto-thread/540_30#post_5254061

YYPH S/S 2013 - http://www.styleforum.net/t/280641/...it-yohji-yamamoto-thread/1650_30#post_5555804


Videos

A Notebook on Cities & Clothes (full film on YouTube!) - http://www.styleforum.net/t/280641/...r-fit-yohji-yamamoto-thread/0_30#post_5071554

Yohji lookbooks between 83 & 96 - http://www.styleforum.net/t/280641/...it-yohji-yamamoto-thread/1560_30#post_5547833

COMING SOON Promotional Videos - http://www.styleforum.net/t/280641/...-fit-yohji-yamamoto-thread/60_30#post_5083953

Diane Pernet Interview - http://www.styleforum.net/t/280641/...r-fit-yohji-yamamoto-thread/0_30#post_5071076

SHOWStudio: In conversation with Yohji Yamamoto - http://www.styleforum.net/t/280641/...r-fit-yohji-yamamoto-thread/0_30#post_5076099

Yohji Yamamoto interview at V&A - http://www.styleforum.net/t/280641/...it-yohji-yamamoto-thread/2100_30#post_5605907

London College of Fashion Interview - http://www.styleforum.net/t/280641/...fit-yohji-yamamoto-thread/270_30#post_5150069

Y-3 S/S 2012 Campaign Video - http://www.styleforum.net/t/280641/...fit-yohji-yamamoto-thread/360_30#post_5195302

Yohji Yamamoto 30th Anniversary Party clip - http://www.styleforum.net/t/280641/...-fit-yohji-yamamoto-thread/30_30#post_5077052


YY 1981 - http://www.styleforum.net/t/280641/...fit-yohji-yamamoto-thread/360_30#post_5189895

YY A/W 1984 - http://www.styleforum.net/t/280641/...fit-yohji-yamamoto-thread/570_30#post_5273501

YY S/S 1989, YY A/W 1989, YY S/S 1990, YY A/W 1990 - http://www.styleforum.net/t/280641/...it-yohji-yamamoto-thread/1350_30#post_5512119

YY A/W 1994 - http://www.styleforum.net/t/280641/...fit-yohji-yamamoto-thread/480_30#post_5229892

YY A/W 1995 - http://www.styleforum.net/t/280641/...it-yohji-yamamoto-thread/1080_30#post_5441275

YY S/S 1996 - http://www.styleforum.net/t/280641/...it-yohji-yamamoto-thread/1350_30#post_5512122

YY A/W 1996 - http://www.styleforum.net/t/280641/...it-yohji-yamamoto-thread/1560_30#post_5547857

YYPH A/W 1999 (Gypsy collection) - http://www.styleforum.net/t/280641/...fit-yohji-yamamoto-thread/150_30#post_5104528

YYPH S/S 2000, F/W 2008, S/S 2012 - http://www.styleforum.net/t/280641/...r-fit-yohji-yamamoto-thread/0_30#post_5070950

YYPH S/S 2001 - http://www.styleforum.net/t/280641/...fit-yohji-yamamoto-thread/960_30#post_5366878

YYPH S/S 2003 - http://www.styleforum.net/t/280641/...it-yohji-yamamoto-thread/1470_30#post_5530607

Y's in Beijing A/W 2008, Y's for men Pitti Uomo A/W 2005, Short snippet of Max Vadukul shooting the Y's 2000 catalogue in Tokyo, Y's for men A/W 2004, Y's for men S/S 2004, Y's women A/W 2004, Y's for men S/S 2005, Y's for women S/S 2005 - http://www.styleforum.net/t/280641/...it-yohji-yamamoto-thread/1740_30#post_5565941

YYPH S/S 2006 - http://www.styleforum.net/t/280641/...fit-yohji-yamamoto-thread/360_30#post_5203948

YYPH A/W 2007 - http://www.styleforum.net/t/280641/...fit-yohji-yamamoto-thread/780_30#post_5330745

YYPH A/W 2009 - http://www.styleforum.net/t/280641/...it-yohji-yamamoto-thread/1080_30#post_5439205

YYPH THE MEN 4.1.2010 - http://www.styleforum.net/t/280641/...fit-yohji-yamamoto-thread/300_30#post_5150521

YY A/W 2011 - http://www.styleforum.net/t/280641/...fit-yohji-yamamoto-thread/540_30#post_5242347

Y-3 S/S 2012 - http://www.styleforum.net/t/280641/...-fit-yohji-yamamoto-thread/30_30#post_5078217

YY S/S 2012 - http://www.styleforum.net/t/280641/...fit-yohji-yamamoto-thread/300_30#post_5150521

YYPH A/W 2012 - http://www.styleforum.net/t/280641/...fit-yohji-yamamoto-thread/240_30#post_5137269 and http://www.styleforum.net/t/280641/...it-yohji-yamamoto-thread/1080_30#post_5440276

YY A/W 2012 - http://www.styleforum.net/t/280641/...fit-yohji-yamamoto-thread/540_30#post_5254464

YYPH S/S 2013 - http://www.styleforum.net/t/280641/...it-yohji-yamamoto-thread/1920_30#post_5585814

Fabric Codes (will be updated regularly)

excel document for easy viewing.
 
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sipang

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SW&D 2012 is going to be gooood grrreat AWESOME !
 
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siglo vi

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got my first yohji piece today a db navy pinstripe blazer from fw11.. but i got an xs and i'm pretty sure i'm not wearing it 'loose" as intended
 

Fycus

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Maybe a post on the sizing would help? If I'm a 40r what should I go with in yohji suits?
 

_yoo

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Great thread idea! My own wardrobe has stabilized around a point where it is probably no longer easy (or financially viable!) to incorporate anything distinctively Yohji other than footwear, but I've always appreciate him from afar and wanted to learn more about him and his clothes. Will definitely be monitoring this thread and contributing what I can. There are tons of runway photos on GQ, but here are the two most recent collections in high resolution:
Spring 2012
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Ivwri

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With regards to sizing -

Older Yohji pieces were sized with the typical S/M/L labels. The more recent collections use a numbering system with 1 being the equivalent of XS/44, 2 - S/46, 3 - M/48, 4 - L/50, 5 - XL/52.

I personally wear a size 50 which I find is equivalent to a size 4 in almost everything he makes and I get the desired oversized fit with most things. With the items that are not meant to fit oversized, this sizing has still worked for me.

Now, there are some items that are made in one-size and these items are usually just given a label with size 3. These will work for most sizes of individual and usually incorporate some form of waist adjustment (for pants) or are just made to look different on different individuals. So, if you see some items in a size 3 only, they are generally meant to be one size fits all. A lot of his knits tend to show up in size 3 only.

The cargo pants I got that look like Samurai pants are an example of one size fits all, with a clever button-based system for adjusting the waist and two sets of buttons on the legs for adjusting the width of the taper.

With the FW11 season, stores in the US and EU have gotten items in sizes 1, 3 and 5 with 1 being the equivalent of 1 and 2, 3 being the equivalent of 3 and 4 and 5 being the equivalent of 5 and 6. It was only for some tailored items like shirts and jackets and not across board. Yohji sizing is pretty consistent though so if you are a 50/L just look for a size 4 and you should be fine.

The ideal of course is to try on the clothes themselves, but I know that can be quite difficult due to the limited availability of the brand.
 
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Ivwri

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SW&D 2012 is going to be gooood grrreat AWESOME !


:)

got my first yohji piece today a db navy pinstripe blazer from fw11.. but i got an xs and i'm pretty sure i'm not wearing it 'loose" as intended


Maybe a post on the sizing would help? If I'm a 40r what should I go with in yohji suits?


Hope the post above helps a bit. :embar:

Great thread idea! My own wardrobe has stabilized around a point where it is probably no longer easy (or financially viable!) to incorporate anything distinctively Yohji other than footwear, but I've always appreciate him from afar and wanted to learn more about him and his clothes. Will definitely be monitoring this thread and contributing what I can.
There are tons of runway photos on GQ, but here are the two most recent collections in high resolution:

Spring 2012

Fall 2011



Thanks a lot for those _yoo. Was gonna post them up as well so you definitely helped me out. Really excited by SS12 and already trying to see what I can do to get my hands on the pieces as early as possible :slayer:
 

Parker

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Yohji is great. SS12 is so good. I would totally wear this.

1000
 
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Ivwri

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Some of my fave Yohji men's collections/shows. His clothes are best seen in motion so that the flow and drape of the fabric can be appreciated.

Spring/Summer 2000

[VIDEO][/VIDEO]

Autumn/Winter 2008

[VIDEO][/VIDEO]

Spring/Summer 2012

[VIDEO][/VIDEO]

I also really like Autumn/Winter 2009 but can't find a video for it anywhere. :(
 

Ivwri

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Yohji is great. I don't know if I could wear a lot of his runway stuff, but I can totally relate to the mix of classic tailoring and flowy Japanese elements. I really like a few things from the SS12 collection like the cropped pants and some of the overcoat/wraps. Also this nehru suit is awesome. I could totally wear this.
yohji-yamamoto2012ssmens_035.jpg
yohji-yamamoto2012ssmens_040.jpg


In my experience, the runway stuff can be worn without much fanfare if put together with the right pieces. I like Atelier and LN-CC's buys usually because they tend to get a lot of the more wearable pieces from the collections I have seen so far.

That suit is indeed awesome. There are so many nice pieces from the SS12 collection. Really like a lot of the jackets.
 

Ivwri

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Some YY fits (will crosspost some asobu ones later :nodding:) -

Mail-Moth of Stylezeitgeist -
(jacket and pants)


Karlo Steel (of Atelier New York) in Yohji -


Karlo Steel wearing the same jacket as above -


both Karlo Steel images nabbed off Stylezeitgeist.





 
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Parker

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Love that mail-moth look above.

Another thing I love about Yohji is his footwear. Much of it seems inspired by youth culture classics like Docs, Palladiums or Chucks. I love a chunky boot with a relaxed suit.
 
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Ivwri

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Love that mail-moth look above.

Another thing I love about Yohji is his footwear. Much of it seems inspired by youth culture classics like Docs, Palladiums or Chucks. I love a chunky boot with a relaxed suit.


Haven't worn boots in years, but I am currently working on getting them back into my wardrobe for the very same reason. :happy:

Here's a nice interview with Diane Pernet that I quite like because of the way Yohji describes his brand -
[VIDEO][/VIDEO]

(off to bed now :eek:)
 
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snake

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What I've always enjoyed too about his shows is how the model's hair is styled.

TSSIG.jpg

2ZgEY.jpg

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