The Second Tailors' Thread: Technical Tutorials

[emptym]

In the first Tailors' Thread, our intrepid trio has been assessing the fit of particular garments and providing individualized alteration suggestions. But common problems abound. Consolidated here are various other threads or outstanding posts written over the years by our experts to deal with these problems. More will be added as they are written. But this thread will remain a place for posting general solutions to general problems, just as the first Tailor's Thread will remain a place for those seeking personalized feedback.


From jeffreyd:

Canvas and Suit Construction
Allowances for Alterations
Shoulder Expression
Touching Up Your Suit
The Shaping of a Sleeve
Shoulder Divots (with follow-up by Despos)

From a tailor:

Why Shirt Darts?
One Hip Higher?
Lapels, Lapels, Lapels
Design Your Own Lapels
Made to Measure: How are Balance Changes Made?
Alterations for Stooped Posture
Defining Terms: Custom, Bespoke, and Made-To-Measure
Uncomfortable Trouser Butt and Its Appearance
Finding the Canvas
Altering the Rise
Equipment for Pressing Your Suit
Using Your Pressing Equipment
Gaping Pockets
Dressing a Trouser
Forward Shoulders
For Do-It-Yourselfers, Getting the Trouser Length right
Getting the Trouser Length Right
Extremely Erect Alterations
Balance Explained
Do I Have a Low Shoulder?
How to Cut for a Low Shoulder
Got Square Shoulders?
Got Sloping Shoulders?
Got a High Hip?
Taking in a Jacket's Sides
Jacket Waistline Suppression
Making Trousers Smaller
Making Trousers Larger
Removing Trouser Pleats
Hole Worn in Trouser Thigh
The Rise
Vest Measurements
Buying RTW Trousers
Shirt Sleeve Showing Problem
That Pesky Roll Bellow the Collar

From Despos:

How to determine proper jacket sleeve length
Fixing Sleeve Divots
Constructing a Bench-Made Suit
Slanted Pant Cuffs
Suggestions for Building Your Wardrobe
Removing a Grease Stain
How to Measure Yourself for Shirts
Slanting Jacket Pockets

Thank you again for expertise!


Additionally, here are some very helpful threads by other resident SF experts:

Manton on Conservative Business Dress and Menswear Classics and Favorite Fabrics.
Etutee On Pants
Mafoofan Photoshops Fit and Stylistic Recommendations
A Harris's classic, Shoes Explained
DWFII on What Makes a Good Shoe and on Pegged Soles and Shoemaking Techniques and Traditions

 

[Coburn]

Thank you. I've been subscribing to these threads, but I see I missed several.

 

[UrbanComposition]

This is pretty amazing. Thanks for putting it together.

 

[Headlong]

Really good stuff. Many thanks.

 

[mb6c]

thanks

 

[Brendon]

Hi Emptym
could we see something in the technical threads about straightening and crookening of a jacket. This is most probably the most important thing with fitting, historically very debated in the old cutter and tailor mag's. Any jacket pattern maker or budding cutter/tailor should aquire this knowledge. I am amazed that this has not been mentioned as yet. If it has apologies and would love to be directed to it to view other opinions on this
regards
Brendon

 

[Zac Duncan]

Thanks, it's really cool to list all of them

 

[24thHamlinGent]

Just joined the forum and came across this as my first thread! What great information and I will be sure to go through every one!

 

[Eleganza]

Hello, new here.

I don't know if this is the right place for this question, but what are the rules regarding darts and men's shirts and jackets? Should men's jackets, odd blazers, feature darts?

Thanks fella's.

 

[fraserstrand]

This is fantastic thanks! I've had a pair of Pierre Cardin trousers I've been meaning to take up for months now - great tips

 

[mafiaye]

Start learning, thanks for posting!

 

[megara]

This is so nice of you! Thank you emptym! Learning time.

 

[XFactor]

Is there any guide on MEASURING YOURSELF to BUY SUITS from the CLASSIFIEDS and EBAY?

I am looking at Marketplace Classifieds for suits to possibly buy.

People are listing a bunch of measurements (which makes sense).

Which GUIDE / page should I used to get and UNDERSTAND correctly my OWN MEASUREMENTS i.e. Measure myself to match / best find match with the Suits on sale?

I can wear an existing suit and take measurements but I better do it with proper guidance so that I do not measure WRONG PLACES on the suit and body.

 

[TheBlackBruceWayne]

Exactly what I've been looking for.subscribed

 

[dongzy]

Thanks