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First bespoke shoe? What to get?

jamaican

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Gentlemen, I have in mind to make the transition from MTO/RTW to bespoke in the coming months but am not sure what type (not make but type; Adelaide, or semi- brogue or what) of shoe to get... perhaps this is too wide a brief, if so please, I beg you, indulge me or add some refinement... perhaps it has been previously considered; please redirect me: the question is for a first bespoke shoe, what would you suggest?

I have a list of oxfords that I'd like and examples of shoes in mind, but I wonder if you learned gentlemen could suggest a type of shoe that is advisable.

Perhaps there are technical matters to be considered: For example, my cutter (I can say that in this forum and sound perfectly reasonable) explained that when making my first bespoke suit, the first one was a "prototype"... far better than an off the rack or MTM, but still shy of the ultimate cut he would undertake for me. The second would be better and by the third suit he would have pretty much nailed the cut. Is it the same for bespoke shoes?

Perhaps I should merely observe some ancient rules of building a wardrobe... perhaps I should just break some rules, or maybe I should fill in my immature shoe collection with RTW/MTOs and then get the bespoke stuff later. (I actually have in mind to add to bespoke and MTO shoe collections at the same time.)

In terms of makers I have in mind Gaziano & Girling (I have a decent relationship with them from thei MTO offerings already and trust them); Fosters or Cleverley. Mr Gomez is unlikely, as I live in London and I'd like to suppot British shoe-makers at least until I have knowledge enough to know what I like and don't like in terms of the world of bespoke.

I look forward to your thoughts. J
 

Kuro

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Calling RJManton.com...I recently went through the same thought process that you are going through for my 1st bespoke order. As of now it is an oxford in black calf with a simulated cap, but I have the ability to change the order at the fitting next month. As you say, there are two ways to go - classic or fantasy. I chose classic because I cannot find a RTW oxford in a last that I like that fits correctly in my true size (I have a high instep) so I don't have any proper shoes for suits (almost all derbys).
 

Eustace Tilley

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Def. go classic on your first shoe. Save the funky stuff for later, once you have the basics in bespoke well covered.

I suggest a dark brown oxford with a punched captoe.
 

grimslade

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Originally Posted by Eustace Tilley
Def. go classic on your first shoe. Save the funky stuff for later, once you have the basics in bespoke well covered.

I suggest a dark brown oxford with a punched captoe.


I can't argue with that.
 

XdryMartini

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In addition to the above recommendations, I would suggest something that you would keep in a normal rotation and would get a great deal of wear. It will undoubtably be your most comfortable shoe, so should also be the most versatile.
 

Manton

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My first pair were black semi-brogues. If I had it do over again, I would get black stitch caps.
 

fritzl

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Would you mind giving a short overview, what's already in your closet/rotation?

I agree, with the prototype statement. It is similar with shoes.

Hopefully luk-cha san is chiming in. He is familiar with G&G and visited the others mentioned recently.
He is already on the bespoke route with Mr. Gaziano and Mr. Girling, but he is also crazy for the Vass like stuff, with several pairs, delivered and in progress. My bet would be, that he can be helpful with your demands.
 

RJman

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If you have the means and the intention to continue buying bespoke shoes over the long run, get the crazy stuff out of your system. That way your later orders can focus on more classic models. Otherwise you'll keep second-guessing yourself.
 

jamaican

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Originally Posted by fritzl
Would you mind giving a short overview, what's already in your closet/rotation?

I have a very immature wardrobe:

Black crockett & Jones clifford and tavistock. I will get the cap toe oxford soon to complete the work rotation. The C&J stuff is strictly for work. (I wont wear bespoke shoe sto work until I am the boss.)

J M Weston Chelsea in chocolate, double monk jodhpur in tan, wingtip black brogue

Gaziano & Girling Hove in vintage maple , Rothschild in vintage pine, Hughes (modified) in vintage cherry (on order), Thorpe country boot in arran highland garain (like the catalogue pics), Cannes loafer on mahogany (maroon/brown) highland grain.

Plus some driving shoes and trainer shoes etc that dont merit mention in such esteemed company.
 

TKDKid

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If you're going with G&G, I like the look of these:

BespokeAdelaide.jpg


I've been thinking for a while that such a model could be made up as a wholecut, with imitation brogueing and seams for the design and the actual seam disguised as part of the heel counter on the inside.

(I like wholecuts and adelaides, so...)
 

Pengranger

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Personally, if I was going bespoke (I should be so lucky), it would have to be something avantgarde, or to get the perfect fit.

Fortunately I don't have too much trouble with fit, so I would have to go with a design which was distinctive and personal. Maybe I'm a cheap skate, but if I can get the "look" for the right price, be it OTR Lobb, Church's, Cheaney, C&J etc I'll go for that. I wear shoes that get noticed - a bespoke pair of black caps or wing tips may just have to be your little secret!
 

the.chikor

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I would think - buy according to their intended use. If the shoes are intended for business- you may want to start with a classic look. If it if for a more casual use-then go ahead be a little more liberal with the color or design.
 

grimslade

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go with something classic so you can get plenty of use out of it. That's the way to get value for money IMO.
 

Kuro

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or classic with a twist (e.g. a bi-material suede/calf).
 

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