Working buttons vs. lazy buttons

acecow · Jul 3, 2010

I've recently bought a nice sport coat that has unfinished sleeves. I don't have a lot of extra cash to throw around, but I'm not starving either. My tailor wants an extra $105 for working button holes, otherwise he threatens to just sew the buttons to the sleeves without any button holes whatsoever (fake or working). Please, help me decide, should I get surgeon's cuffs, fake button holes with buttons sewed or the cheapest version, being just buttons sewed to the sleeve of the jacket.

Thanks!

razl · Jul 3, 2010

No idea on what you should get - that's a matter of cost vs. priorities.

But, I will say that if your tailor is "threatening" to do anything else other than what you want, that's a strong cue to find another tailor.

And, no sure where you're at, but $105's a bit high. Mine will do 2 sleeves of 4 buttons for $50 (but I usually give her another $20 on pickup. You know, for the effort)

acecow · Jul 3, 2010

Originally Posted by razl

No idea on what you should get - that's a matter of cost vs. priorities.

But, I will say that if your tailor is "threatening" to do anything else other than what you want, that's a strong cue to find another tailor.

And, no sure where you're at, but $105's a bit high. Mine will do 2 sleeves of 4 buttons for $50 (but I usually give her another $20 on pickup. You know, for the effort)

I'm in Los Angeles. I've been to two good tailors, they both gave me the same price. I'm also taking the jacket in the sides. Both charged me $125 for that, saying that it's harder to, because the jacket is patterned. So, it's either $45 for shortening both sleeves and sewing the buttons on or $150 for the same + surgeon's cuffs. Will the sport coat look weird if he just sews the buttons on without any visible button holes?

SkinnyGoomba · Jul 3, 2010

surgeon cuffs are a waste of money on a rtw jacket.

TRINI · Jul 3, 2010

Originally Posted by SkinnyGoomba

surgeon cuffs are a waste of money on a rtw jacket.

Why? It's a feature that's available if you're willing to pay for it.

acecow · Jul 3, 2010

Originally Posted by SkinnyGoomba

surgeon cuffs are a waste of money on a rtw jacket.

How can you tell something isn't bespoke if it fits well?

But back to the question: Would the sleeves look odd if there were buttons sewed directly into the fabric without visible button holes?

Thanks!

GradSchooler · Jul 3, 2010

$105 is a complete rip off for surgeons cuffs. I live in a city with a single (competent) tailor (who grossly overcharges) and it's only $45. If you have a Mens Wearhouse near you, they'll do the cuffs with just sewn on buttons for $10-$15.

As to whether or not sleeves look odd without fake button holes: I have a couple of jackets with this. While it does look a little odd to my sartorially astute eye, most people (i.e. everyday people who you do 99% of your interaction with) would never notice.

SkinnyGoomba · Jul 3, 2010

Originally Posted by TRINI

Why? It's a feature that's available if you're willing to pay for it.
I think it's something that should be reserved for bespoke and it's a bit pretentious on a RTW jacket. But again it's only my opinion.

Wes Bourne · Jul 3, 2010

Originally Posted by SkinnyGoomba

surgeon cuffs are a waste of money on a rtw jacket.

Originally Posted by SkinnyGoomba

I think it's something that should be reserved for bespoke and it's a bit pretentious on a RTW jacket. But again it's only my opinion.

Wait, don't you get your alterations tailor to make surgeon cuffs on your stuff?

SkinnyGoomba · Jul 3, 2010

Originally Posted by Wes Bourne

Wait, don't you get your alterations tailor to make surgeon cuffs on your stuff?

I've done it once before, in fact that's how I determined it to be a waste of money.

dragon8 · Jul 3, 2010

Originally Posted by acecow

How can you tell something isn't bespoke if it fits well?

But back to the question: Would the sleeves look odd if there were buttons sewed directly into the fabric without visible button holes?

Thanks!

I don't think anyone would notice to be perfectly honest unless they were staring directly at them

Bull · Jul 3, 2010

Originally Posted by GradSchooler

$105 is a complete rip off for surgeons cuffs. I live in a city with a single (competent) tailor (who grossly overcharges) and it's only $45. If you have a Mens Wearhouse near you, they'll do the cuffs with just sewn on buttons for $10-$15.

As to whether or not sleeves look odd without fake button holes: I have a couple of jackets with this. While it does look a little odd to my sartorially astute eye, most people (i.e. everyday people who you do 99% of your interaction with) would never notice.

Gradschooler, can you post the name and city of the tailor?

You could make quite a decent bit of change acting as a middle man for this guy. Set up a website, have people send you their coats, charge $75, and pocket the $30 upcharge (minus $5 for shipping).

Not a bad gig!

SkinnyGoomba · Jul 3, 2010

Originally Posted by dragon8

I don't think anyone would notice to be perfectly honest unless they were staring directly at them

Except maybe the senior management member who questions whether you're spending more time mulling over your shirt/tie combo than the quality of the work you're doing.

Wes Bourne · Jul 3, 2010

Originally Posted by SkinnyGoomba

I've done it once before, in fact that's how I determined it to be a waste of money.

So you now forego getting buttonholes stitched on your sleeves altogether or just don't bother getting them opened and made functional?

Originally Posted by SkinnyGoomba

Except maybe the senior management member who questions whether you're spending more time mulling over your shirt/tie combo than the quality of the work you're doing.

I'm confused. Aren't you the unemployed dude who buys tons of RL while still living at home and had once considered a career as an image/wardrobe consultant? Don't you spend more time mulling over your shirt/tie combo than doing any work, period?

JayJay · Jul 3, 2010

Originally Posted by acecow

I've recently bought a nice sport coat that has unfinished sleeves. I don't have a lot of extra cash to throw around, but I'm not starving either. My tailor wants an extra $105 for working button holes, otherwise he threatens to just sew the buttons to the sleeves without any button holes whatsoever (fake or working). Please, help me decide, should I get surgeon's cuffs, fake button holes with buttons sewed or the cheapest version, being just buttons sewed to the sleeve of the jacket.

Thanks!
The cost is consistent with what is charged in Indianapolis, $100. I personally like for items to be functional thus, all my jackets have working sleeve buttons.

Working buttons vs. lazy buttons

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