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Search results
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Ongoing Bespoke Projects
Solaro is very much an autumn/spring cloth. All individual climate dependent of course.- reidd
- Post #13,343
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Ongoing Bespoke Projects
As an aside, if anyone is on the fence about Smith's Solaro.. go for it. I've found it to be an absolute workhorse. Holds shape really well, super durable and hides stains to boot. That suit is 5 years old and has never been pressed. Also surprisingly easy to wear. Dresses up and down very well.- reidd
- Post #13,340
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Ongoing Bespoke Projects
Thanks for humoring me lol. I think its an interesting discussion since these are probably the most popular schools of tailoring on here. Personally I've struggled to pick a favorite myself (luckily I don't have to!). The major differences as I see them: Neapolitan: Longer and slightly roomier...- reidd
- Post #13,336
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Ongoing Bespoke Projects
On the subject of comparing cuts... Would be curious which style you guys think works better for me and why? Neapolitan: Or Florentine:- reidd
- Post #13,332
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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The Watch Appreciation Thread - Part two (Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Jaeger LeCoultre,
The denim watches are like somebody doing a parody of a watches and wonders release.- reidd
- Post #62,644
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread
It’s super slick and crispy.- reidd
- Post #39,707
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread
Come to think of it, bamboo cloth is basically a type of rayon/viscose. I think HFW have a bunch with some kind of bamboo blend.- reidd
- Post #39,704
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread
Yep that’s it. The one I have is a gabardine. The sateens in that book look great as well but are definitely textured and probably not what you’re looking for. You might want to check Fox “khaki” bunch as well. I have a couple pieces in that and it’s really good also. Very similar to the...- reidd
- Post #39,702
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread
I thought my stack of 15ish lengths was getting big lol. Side note, since Caraceni in Milan is closing, I wonder what will happen to her massive stash of cloth. Some real treasure in there im sure.- reidd
- Post #39,688
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread
Dugdale cottons (I forget the name of the bunch) are fantastic. Holds its shape really well.- reidd
- Post #39,687
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Ongoing Bespoke Projects
I actually find the opposite problem when packing. When I have forgotten braces, I just wear the pants without and have no problem since with side adjustors, they still look right. There's nothing worse than forgetting a belt and having empty belt loops thought.- reidd
- Post #13,204
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Ongoing Bespoke Projects
I have gone back and forth a bit on suspender vs belt. In my early bespoke days, I almost always got side adjustors on everything; both suits and odd trousers. Now I tend to go with belt loops on odd trousers. For odd trousers I think belt is more versatile since I wear tailored trousers without...- reidd
- Post #13,202
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Ongoing Bespoke Projects
With this build, you will look good in most any style of tailoring so I'd just go with whichever aesthetic you prefer. That said, I'd say slim guys look particularly good in a Florentine cut.- reidd
- Post #13,177
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Ongoing Bespoke Projects
No matter which tailor you choose in Napoli, make sure you get a pizza at 50 Kalo. All the locals I spoke with recommended this as the best pizza in the city and it certainly did not disappoint.- reidd
- Post #13,173
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Ongoing Bespoke Projects
Some poor SF member's jacket is gonna get delayed by like a month so Despos can explain to us how a pagoda shoulder gets made.- reidd
- Post #13,081
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Ongoing Bespoke Projects
Surely you at least agree with me about the comfort aspect! LOL- reidd
- Post #13,071
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Ongoing Bespoke Projects
I have some jackets with a shoulder something like that from another old school Napoli house and they are the most comfortable jackets I own. A big sleevehead with high armhole combined with rollino without padding equals super comfortable. Spalla camicia can be comfy too but with that...- reidd
- Post #13,067
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Ongoing Bespoke Projects
Right. My understanding is that pagoda shoulders have significant tailoring/structure added into the shoulder itself to build that shape. Adding padding or shape to the sleevehead is not enough to create it. My point is that on this jacket, the sleeveheads are made such that it almost creates...- reidd
- Post #13,065
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Ongoing Bespoke Projects
Very old school Napoli. Love it. I could be wrong but from the pics it looks like the shoulder itself is still very light and natural (no deliberate shaping or pagoda). But rather the sleevehead treatment gives it the illusion of a pagoda shape. Would be curious if he uses much wadding in that...- reidd
- Post #13,062
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread
I guess it just depends on your budget. All else equal, I don't think MTM is ever better than a good bespoke tailor no matter the material, but its going to be less expensive.- reidd
- Post #39,501
- Forum: Classic Menswear