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  1. J

    Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

    Even cotton seersucker wears warm. The Loro Piana silk and wool mare is the way to go.
  3. J

    Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

    Commissioning a bespoke suit in cotton means that God has given you entirely too much money. You will sweat your twins off in the summer and freeze your twins off in the winter time. Not to mention cotton is a ***** to clean, almost always requiring dry cleaning, where wool is more forgiving.
  4. J

    Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

    Dugdale English & Town Classics is a true “work horse” bunch. Definitely not for summertime. Darker navy suits are always appropriate and never go out of fashion. Consider a separate commission for spring//summer in fresco, finmeresco, or another Panama weave.
  5. J

    Ongoing Bespoke Projects

    The collar seems to be clean and close to the neck. The back of the coat just needs a bit of love.
  6. J

    Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

    I find the super 120’s-super 150’s to work well in autumn, spring, and early winter. I have never ventured into super 180’s, dare I say Super 200’s. Genesis from Minnis is an interesting read. I wonder if it wrinkles when you breathe.
  7. J

    Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

    Some supers can be fun to experiment with. Just not a good foundation piece.
  8. J

    Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

    The bespoke investment is far more satisfying when you select a cloth that will serve you well for many years to come.
  9. J

    Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

    Your tailor gave you excellent recommendations for your first suit. Don't fall into the trap of Super-whatever-Italian cloths. Give the Oyster bunch a glance, as well. They have some beautiful conservative suitings in that bunch. You can't go wrong with the English & Town Classics Bunch...
  10. J

    Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

    There are also quite a few in the 15/16 ounce range in the Universal Bunch. I find the finishing to be very comparable to the town & classics bunch
  11. J

    Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

    Not a worsted flannel. But definitely a heavily milled worsted.
  12. J

    Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

    Universal is an eclectic bunch. Some are less refined than others. This is the 20 ounce navy made up along with the 18/19 ounce charcoal which is much more soft to the touch. The navy is a bit too rough in the handle for me, but I still enjoy wearing the suit. Dugdale English & Town...
  13. J

    Ongoing Bespoke Projects

    Yes and yes. It is a wonderful flannel. Drape is amazing.
  14. J

    Ongoing Bespoke Projects

    Both very different. The LL reverse stripe is more of a worsted with a bit of milling. Different shade of grey. The Minnis is a true woolen Flannel with lots of beautiful marl.
  15. J

    Ongoing Bespoke Projects

    Yes. This is the medium grey reverse stripe. I have never seen the blue made up. It is very different from the LL reverse stripe which I foolishly had made up with an inferior “Savile Row” house. Would love to get my hands on another length
  16. J

    Ongoing Bespoke Projects

    This is the Minnis reverse stripe. Fox worsted flannel bunch has a beautiful Reverse stripe, but that bunch is way too light weight for me.
  17. J

    Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

    You know you want to.
  18. J

    Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

    I second this. Special thanks to Kolecho for the small run of mid grey Rangoon for those of us who missed out on the first run. This is the perfect conservative medium/dark grey for a summer business suit.
  19. J

    Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

    A few solids, herringbone, sharkskin, and hopsack.
  20. J

    Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

    That’s the problem. The Fearnought Collection and Universal are the only two left on the market. Both collections are nowhere near refined as the old Lesser 16. There is still some scabal “Big Ben” available. Nice cloth.
  21. J

    Ongoing Bespoke Projects

    I have the English & Town Classics Bunch. Which number was this dark navy?
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How important is full vs half canvas to you for heavier sport jackets?

  • Definitely full canvas only

    Votes: 92 37.6%

  • Half canvas is fine

    Votes: 90 36.7%

  • Really don't care

    Votes: 26 10.6%

  • Depends on fabric

    Votes: 41 16.7%

  • Depends on price

    Votes: 38 15.5%
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