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New posts
  1. 32-20

    Double cuffs on checked shirts?

    I have some nice red-on-white gingham and tan-on-white tattersall sitting on my bookshelf, both quite sleek and light. I already have made some final decisions on the future shirts: no pocket, no placket, and spread collars, most likely to be worn tieless and with a tweed jacket. I'm on the...
  3. 32-20

    Jacket alterations: rolling lapel lower, etc

    They're too short by an inch or so given that I wanted a slight break, but they're wearable; I'm just grousing while I still have the momentum, really. The suit fabric is plain worsted with a small but visible twill/diagonal weave. I have no less than three digital cameras within reach, and...
  4. 32-20

    Jacket alterations: rolling lapel lower, etc

    When I was getting fitted for the YWY sportcoat, the button stance was lowered, and the position of the pockets with it. That was my experience before I went into LB, and how I came to have that expectation.
  5. 32-20

    Jacket alterations: rolling lapel lower, etc

    Last spring in Hong Kong I made the regrettable decision to have a one-button three piece suit made by Lee Baron. I advise you all to go to Y. William Yu on Mody Road instead. I had a one-button jacket there for the same price as a full three piece from LB, but it's absolutely perfect. To give...
  6. 32-20

    The State of Black Tie: Your Observations

    I thought I'd share this interesting number. http://www.pinterest.com/pin/251638697903634737/ Quote:
  7. 32-20

    Comments request on suit fit

    Looks fairly decent around the shoulder and sleeves, though the latter seems a little too close to shirtsleeve length. Easily altered if so. The skirt is too short by two or three inches. The horizontal line across your crotch and the inverted V of the open quarters combine in a conspicuous tear...
  8. 32-20

    The State of Black Tie: Your Observations

    I've come around to the view of getting a basic black dinner suit to start with, since if I got the trousers on their own, it would be difficult to find the precise match in fabric if I wanted to add a jacket later. Slightly cheaper to have them made as a pair, too. However, I never intended to...
  9. 32-20

    The State of Black Tie: Your Observations

    And I've taken it into consideration. I'm now trying to figure out a degree of formality between black tie and a lounge suit - in other words, a smoking jacket fit for wearing out in public. Bottle green is unconventional and therefore less formal, but that doesn't mean it's exiled from that...
  10. 32-20

    The State of Black Tie: Your Observations

    Except midnight blue. All I'm proposing here is a midnight green, on an otherwise completely orthodox dinner suit. Or jacket - if there's such thing as semi-semi-formal I think bottle green might fit nicely into that category.
  11. 32-20

    The State of Black Tie: Your Observations

    Fellas, how do you feel about a bottle-green dinner suit? That is, an is-that-black-or-do-my-eyes-deceive-me shade of green. The lapels (peak) would be black grosgrain.
  12. 32-20

    The Hong Kong Tailors Thread

    I ordered a three piece suit from Lee Baron and had my first fitting a few days before Chinese New Year. When I selected a material and asked for the price, I was given a low figure - I was surprised, then specified that I wanted full canvassing and no fusing, and the figure jumped up to around...
  13. 32-20

    The Hong Kong Tailors Thread

    Quite detailed. I provided a scrapsheet of example photos - a gorge height example, Jim Cagney raising his arms in a jacket with gloriously high armholes, a picture of some Phineas Cole open quarters, a H. Huntsman straight shoulder; and a pic of double vents, as I wasn't sure of the fluency...
  14. 32-20

    The Hong Kong Tailors Thread

    YWY is legit. I asked about fusing etc. and their default is canvassing; I provided a printout of my style specifications, and they followed it faithfully; at the fittings, they prompted me for my opinion on subtler stylistic details (skirt length, lapel width.) I think it was Andy who suggested...
  15. 32-20

    Button Stance and Sitting

    I'm considering a soft, distinctly indoorsy jacket/coat to lounge around in. Since I don't want to be too aware of my clothes when I'm relaxing, it'll have a 1920s-style soft shoulder - But to come to the main point, I want to be able to sit down with it buttoned up and not worry about straining...
  16. 32-20

    The Hong Kong Tailors Thread

    Plain charcoal worsted - maybe some pale grey, all ideally European winter weight, but the odds are looking vanishingly small. It'd be for a suit from a mid-range Hong Kong tailor. In providing the fabric myself, I'm hoping to cut down costs rather than pursue a greater degree of customisation.
  17. 32-20

    Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

    Thank you. I'll have something to investigate the next time I'm in the country.
  18. 32-20

    The Hong Kong Tailors Thread

    I'm inclined to believe you. I was in the South Bund Fabric Market in Shanghai today. I told myself I wouldn't buy anything on my first trip to the area, but I wasn't even remotely tempted. I was told by one vendor that they don't have anything without cashmere in it. Maybe throwing the word...
  19. 32-20

    The Hong Kong Tailors Thread

    I figure this is the place to ask. Does anyone have advice for buying cloth for CMT in Hong Kong or Shanghai? How to get good quality without relying on the assurances of some, ah, morally flexible phlegm-spitter in a fabric market?
  20. 32-20

    Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

    I wasn't aware that Ireland had a bespoke tradition. Might I ask who your tailor is?
  21. 32-20

    Waistcoats

    I'm thinking of getting a three piece suit made, but I know very little about waistcoats. Do they have their own canvas? Are lapels associated with a particular style; are they ever functional, or are they purely vestigial? And more generally speaking, what should I look out for?
New posts

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How important is full vs half canvas to you for heavier sport jackets?

  • Definitely full canvas only

    Votes: 92 37.6%

  • Half canvas is fine

    Votes: 90 36.7%

  • Really don't care

    Votes: 26 10.6%

  • Depends on fabric

    Votes: 41 16.7%

  • Depends on price

    Votes: 38 15.5%
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