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Search results
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Missing...
Gimme a break. As if it were a great secret. Shirtmakers have showed me 3 different ways to fit prominent chests. If anyone has this concern with their shirts, and would like to see a picture of my shirts using 1 of the strategies, let me know, and I'd be happy (and my shirtmaker) to share it...- MCA
- Post #45
- Forum: General Discussions
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Having a new web site built, Please HELP
Easy there....Writing abilities and tailoring skills are completely independent. Darren's prices are in GBP, so prices for US customers are affected by fluctuations in currency, which are not under Darren's control.- MCA
- Post #42
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Having a new web site built, Please HELP
Hi Darren, I wouldn't loose any sleep if your website is "amateurish"  compared to any of the borderline mass-market firms. Fancy features,  design layouts, and the starkness or rococo design of  the background  of your website, won't influence the decision of potential clients at...- MCA
- Post #40
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Having a new web site built, Please HELP
Hi Darren, Listen to RJman. Nice and simple goes a long way. Some suggestions above seem way too complicated and prone to getting mixed results, in my opinion. Re: THE LOGO. Again, nice and simple is your best friend. I think your name written in a classic font would suffice. If you really...- MCA
- Post #15
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Pleats and cuffs..... for short guys
In my opinion, **a properly cut**, pleated pair of trousers is actually more elongating than any flat front because pleats help maintain that uninterrupted line that is particularly critical for shorter men. Furthermore, the pleats themselves break the horizontal expanse with vertical, and hence...- MCA
- Post #5
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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How to tell ply's
Hi Alex, I mistakenly used the term "yarn numbers" to include the correct technical term plus the number of plies. My error was due perhaps to my not caring too much about any such numbers, and rather focus on the overall picture. I am no textile engineer but in my limited...- MCA
- Post #27
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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How to tell ply's
Hi cutter, Do you happen to be a shirtmaker? You seem quite knowledgeable in the area. Personally I find all  those yarn numbers misleading by themselves. They only tell a very small part of the story. I have seen 70x1/120x2 shirtings that blow away many 160 2x2s and beyond. The hand,  the...- MCA
- Post #24
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Mixing horozontal strip with vertical?
Hi Sasha, Welcome to the forum. As a new member, you might feel a bit confused, and perhaps intimidated, by some unfortunate name calling you see. Just ignore them. It is a good idea to ask around other's opinions on custom shirtmakers, as a starting point. However, bear in mind that some...- MCA
- Post #53
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Some Edward Green Questions
Exactly. The heel counter on the Warwik is just a row of stitches (not a separate piece of leather). Also the facings of the Warwick are straighter, set further back, and with higher eyelet position.- MCA
- Post #11
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Spread collar overkill
Just to clarify, I don't mind button down collars on casual shirts. Â I just don't like wearing a suit and tie with a button down shirt. The true Brooks customer of yore would not be caught wearing a suit with anything but his trusted button down collar. Â A late friend of my father actually...- MCA
- Post #22
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Richard James?
Hi mbmike, These are only my personal opinions. These days I go to RJ only for accessories, as I find his other products either of low quality or extremely overpriced. And their business practice of offering only an oversized size 32 and above in casual pants and jeans I find really...- MCA
- Post #3
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Mixing horozontal strip with vertical?
Hi Mr. Grayson, the seams I mentioned are actually in the front of the shirt, believe it or not, but they are almost invisible in spite of their generous size, and provide the anatomical contouring needed at the chest. In my case the back seams are pretty large, about 3/4 in., and the left seam...- MCA
- Post #30
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Mixing horozontal strip with vertical?
Mr. Grayson, thanks for sharing. In terms of anatomy peculiarities, I can probably beat most people....a shirtmaker's nightmare.... I have a 13.5 in. drop while standing only 5'6". Sig. Siviglia makes special seams to accommodate my large chest, among a host of other details, and he has...- MCA
- Post #27
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Mixing horozontal strip with vertical?
Hi Mr. Grayson, since you've mentioned Sig. Siviglia, I would like to ask you a couple of questions, and share some of my recent findings that might be of interest. Have you tried a variety of collar styles on your Siviglia shirts, or rather  prefer to wear 1 particular style?  In my case I...- MCA
- Post #20
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Incorrect terminologies
Hola Alex- As a non-native speaker I found your post very intriguing (and also a bit confusing) so I investigated a bit and confirmed my findings with a faculty member from the English Dept of my University. In a nutshell, the use of "will" in 1st person is correct, with the excepion...- MCA
- Post #55
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Incorrect terminologies
Hi uriah, Although my comment centered on the "see through" aspect of the cloth, vis-Ã -vis the Irish linens I've seen, and not on what is showing through, either the cloth itself or interlining, I appreciate your observation.- MCA
- Post #32
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Incorrect terminologies
Thank you Alex. I thought you were referring to your "Why Bespoke Shirts" thread: http://66.170.193.77/cgi-bin....5;st=60 But after skimming through it, my assumption was proven wrong. In this thread you wrote that the origin of the term "Italian collar" is not known. If you explained the...- MCA
- Post #28
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Incorrect terminologies
Maybe Alex can prove me wrong, but I think the "Italian collar" terminology he uses for the casual collar without a band, at least in Europe, is not correct. It is a style that did not originate in Italy; in Europe it is known as pajama or American collar, and originated in England...- MCA
- Post #12
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Raphael
Mr. Grayson, thanks for sharing. Sorry about your experience with the English company. Although there are some fairly good ones, H&K is essentially a factory; the work from an experienced and trained artisan is in an entirely different category. Your experience with maestro Siviglia doesn't...- MCA
- Post #55
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Oh, the pain, the unbearable pain!
(YoungFogey @ Mar. 10 2005,09:48) Will it be the day of the Venezuelan bolivar? Not if the CIA has anything to say about it. Well... the CIA tried to support a coup at Venezuela and failed a couple of years ago. That hypothesis is debatable, at best.- MCA
- Post #14
- Forum: Classic Menswear