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Search results

  1. Roger Kearey

    Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

    Ah yes. They had this tasty White seersucker with Blue & Red stripe thing a few of my customers liked. Narrow as F***. The representative in the UK for Caccioppoli and Drago is the hardest working hero in cloth because their stocks disappear weekly and from hour to hour sometimes.
  2. Roger Kearey

    Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

    Just to note, some random cloths can be narrower from merchants and in bunches. Happened a few times when you lay a customers pattern to get the length to order. Get the cloth and as soon as you lay it on your cutting bench you can see its narrower. A customer would order say 4 of the same...
  3. Roger Kearey

    The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

    Is this the one on the previous page? From the photo’s, it’s short in the front balance and long in the back. The shoulder angles don’t seem to have been accounted for and the balance isn’t helping. The sleeves aren’t really hanging nicely. The shoulder padding looks off but this could also...
  4. Roger Kearey

    The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

    you shouldn’t lose much or any of the proportions of the collar if done nicely. Or any that would be noticeable but there are competent tailors and competent tailors. Also depends how that area is put together. I don’t have experience with RTW or MTM but it should be ok as it will be removing...
  5. Roger Kearey

    Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

    Over the years, they’ve always seemed to be in and out of business
  6. Roger Kearey

    The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

    What it says on the tin. It means to shorten the length of the collar, which will allow the lapel to roll lower. If you gently pull the lapel from the notch up, you’ll see the lapel roll lower down the coat which is the effect of taking some length from the collar.
  7. Roger Kearey

    Ongoing Bespoke Projects

    If you have an established pattern, the cut shouldn't change unless you have another fitting on it with a cutter other than the one that originally cut it and significant changes are made. Just saw briefly that there are mentions of getting a different feel of garment from the same tailors...
  8. Roger Kearey

    Ongoing Bespoke Projects

    a 7oz Super 180 would test anyone
  9. Roger Kearey

    Ongoing Bespoke Projects

    Oh my bad. Thought it was to me but was for Permanent Style. From the darkness I arise.
  10. Roger Kearey

    Ongoing Bespoke Projects

    Haha. Expressed too many feels, now left hurt and ashamed. Back to the darkness from whence I came.
  11. Roger Kearey

    Ongoing Bespoke Projects

    That’s why I said that its up to you to decide what you want from your bespoke experience/order. If you want one person to measure, cut, fit, make and finish something, you can visit me in my home, have a coffee and a chat at the table you are helping put food on. You can go to Savile Row...
  12. Roger Kearey

    Ongoing Bespoke Projects

    There are a few they can do it all. It depends on your training and forced labour experience. I was trained as a cutter whilst also had to do alterations, make coats, trousers and waistcoats and then its up to you whether you want to learn them enough to gain proficiency outside of your main...
  13. Roger Kearey

    Ongoing Bespoke Projects

    Its my world and my life
  14. Roger Kearey

    Ongoing Bespoke Projects

    Bear with me of this, I'm not great at writing and just type.... Money and the dying of the trade has diluted what 'Bespoke' used to mean in London. Every suit made used to be bespoke at one time but is now only a small fraction. On Savile Row, the overheads are disgusting, trust me, I have...
  15. Roger Kearey

    Ongoing Bespoke Projects

    I believe Cad and The Dandy make in India. I think the concern is that it is not made by crafts people in England. In person with their bespoke garments, you would wonder why a lot of bespoke houses made in 'England' aren't as clean as Cad's offering. A craft is a craft whether made in London...
  16. Roger Kearey

    Ongoing Bespoke Projects

    There should be cloth there as standard in bespoke. But, it is a big old alteration and not one tailors will like to do. Balance is a tricky one with a made garment and the pockets and how much needs to be added/taken. Generally it will be fine as the extra length would be taken up where it...
  17. Roger Kearey

    Ongoing Bespoke Projects

    The jacket needs more front balance (length) which is done from the neck point. The waist is too suppressed causing those pulls. Calves are calves I'm afraid. The trousers could be 'straightened', maybe nip the ankle in a little, let out the knee and use the iron to shape well.
  18. Roger Kearey

    Ongoing Bespoke Projects

    Yep, seems like they pitched it ‘back’ to do it. Is ‘she’ finished?
  19. Roger Kearey

    Ongoing Bespoke Projects

    that's not going to happen unless they put inlay on the top sleeve which doesn't normally happen.
  20. Roger Kearey

    Ongoing Bespoke Projects

    They should be able to move your pattern down to get the armhole higher unless there’s not enough inlay or they’ve cut the ‘pocket’ cut.

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How important is full vs half canvas to you for heavier sport jackets?

  • Definitely full canvas only

    Votes: 92 37.6%
  • Half canvas is fine

    Votes: 90 36.7%
  • Really don't care

    Votes: 26 10.6%
  • Depends on fabric

    Votes: 41 16.7%
  • Depends on price

    Votes: 38 15.5%

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