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Search results
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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions
I don,t know who or what Knot standard is, but if they provided the suit they should fix it. Seriously, look at the pictures you have provided. The trousers should not pull,or have drag lines, give you a wedgie or hang in any other way than in a complimentary manner, and these are lacking...- Ttailor
- Post #6,944
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions
Well, there is a lot going on here. I would get them to fix the trousers. They do not hang properly and the back inseam is dragged up underneath your seat and between the legs. I think the overall rise could be increased and I wonder about the hip size being insufficient. Lots of room for...- Ttailor
- Post #6,942
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions
The danger of internet advice! I didn't say to take out the CB, and I am not sure what else to say for fear of it being misinterpreted. I bet it is a shoulder issue. The fix is possible in a couple of ways but your best bet is to take it to them in person. Indicate the area you have concern...- Ttailor
- Post #6,871
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions
CB is centre back. I did not specifically say I thought the shoulders are too square for your frame, i think the general interpretation of that paints a different picture in most people's minds. The tension line is mid shoulder. The back shoulder seam may have too much of a hollow to it...- Ttailor
- Post #6,866
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions
What I noticed is a very slight tension across the very upper back which terminates mid shoulder. The shoulder seam may be slightly too hollow or straight there for your particular shoulder shape/ slope/body type. Or, maybe you do need a very marginal lengthening of the cb, and neck...- Ttailor
- Post #6,857
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions
Reply for The Dirk Return it. Try a size up or two, or a different brand/cut. It is much too tight, pretty much everywhere. Trousers are much too narrow at hem, and it doesn't look proportionally balanced.- Ttailor
- Post #6,831
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Help: How to tailor a grosgrain shawl lapel dinner jacket?
Shawl collars always have a seam at the Cb neck. The cb neck seam usually ends up on the bias or close to it, so there will be a visual chevron of the grosgrain weave at that seam.- Ttailor
- Post #2
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions
Well that is good to know, but my opinion has been based on the rtw suits that have come my way for alterations and i have not seen the inlays that you mention.- Ttailor
- Post #6,702
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions
It is understandable when one sees something that is too tight to offer this advice, but in reality, there is no extra fabric available to let out. Most manufactured suits have 1/4" or 1cm seam allowances. Better to try a size up or a different style, brand or cut. Trousers at CB are really...- Ttailor
- Post #6,698
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions
If the holes already exist, then shortening at the hem will likely leave you with an odd situation with holes too close to the new hem. Shortening from the top that much especially in a patterned fabric is likely to throw off any pattern matching of sleeve to body, and may not be...- Ttailor
- Post #6,689
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions
No you don't need to take anything out of the waist. I cannot see why you would think that because it is too tight. Try a size up if possible and compare. It is too bad that the generally the cut of trousers these days is so terrible. I don't know if going bigger will improve them, maybe...- Ttailor
- Post #6,687
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions
Well, I wonder what the back looks like. If the back is sitting perfectly, then the fix is to drop the neck point thereby adding length, but it is unlikely that there will be enough seam allowance left in a finished jacket to do so.- Ttailor
- Post #6,640
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions
Well taking the waist in is not the answer to crossing fronts, that is a neck point issue- short front balance which causes the fronts to cross.- Ttailor
- Post #6,531
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions
- Ttailor
- Post #6,471
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions
They do not seem excessive. The shoulder divot is a problem, please search for the posts explaining why this happens. Altering shoulders (smaller) when there is already a problem with divots is not to be done. There is already a lack of fabric.- Ttailor
- Post #6,463
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions
Pleats mean there is is added width in the back panel usually from yoke to hem, and the excess is pleated in to fit the yoke. If you are trying to get the waist suppressed then darts are a choice you can make. Back Pleats and back darts are not used together in a shirt. Get a tape...- Ttailor
- Post #6,434
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions
The shirt has to have enough circumference to just hang a bit more loosely , so you could ask for more room through the hips. If that ends up giving you too much extra at the waist then back darts seem like the way to go.- Ttailor
- Post #6,429
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions
I'd shorten the sleeves very slightly but leave them otherwise alone. Slight sloping shoulder adjustment- just a bit, the bottom of the armhole should move down correspondingly- i am going to assume that is the norm! In a shirt pattern there is usually some shaping (fabric removed...- Ttailor
- Post #6,426
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions
My question is, what is the difference between your actual chest size, and what you ordered for the chest size of the shirt? You have ordered pleats in the back but the size is so small you can see they are pulling open, which they shouldn't. Don,t bother worrying about the forearm, because...- Ttailor
- Post #6,422
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions
I'm sorry but as you are on your third try, I think that whatever changes you have asked by the company may be best resolved by them as they have the history of the process and what they have done to fix it, (or not). Best to send them photos and see what they say, if you haven't already...- Ttailor
- Post #6,418
- Forum: Classic Menswear