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Search results

  1. Professor Χάος

    Tom Ford-esque suit

    Nice suit. I like Canali. Its one of the best values in terms of marginal utility per dollar. I have about 8 Canali suits. The last one I bought was 1900 model, 15% silk, and also had a peaked lapel. I had my tailor remove most of the shoulder padding. More current Canalis tend to have minimal...
  2. Professor Χάος

    Tom Ford-esque suit

    Hmmm....my Shelton is a half-lined, wool-linen-silk mix, with soft shoulders, so I thought its lightness was an artifact of its unstructured construction. I've never handled a regular, fully-lined 100% wool Shelton. Why does TF need so many layers of canvas? How many layers of canvas does...
  3. Professor Χάος

    Tom Ford-esque suit

    My Base D ran long, but I trimmed it by 1 cm (0.5 inches). Your Atticus must be killer. I look forward to acquiring one myself. The Base Y was surprisingly slim, to the point that I can barely wear it.
  4. Professor Χάος

    Tom Ford-esque suit

    This is the Atticus. Huge lapels. Looks awesome.
  5. Professor Χάος

    Tom Ford-esque suit

    I also prefer Base A. TF should be distinctive, and few suits have the wide lapels of the Base A. I would like to find an Atticus, which has even wider lapels. Base Y is wishy-washy, and as you noted, many other brands offer a similar cut. Peak lapels long predate TF, but the retro 1970s...
  6. Professor Χάος

    Tom Ford-esque suit

    Yes... The silhouette is distinct from TF O'Connor, because the Caruso is soft-shouldered, super 150 thread. I own 5 TF suits, 2 x Base A, Base B, Base D, and Base Y. Each is cut differently, but most have broad shoulders with significant shoulder padding. I already have well-defined...
  7. Professor Χάος

    Tom Ford-esque suit

    I bought a Caruso suit, MTM, made to their highest sartorial standards, which looks like a TF O'Connor:
  8. Professor Χάος

    Which Summer Suit

    I see. You look taller in the picture, probably because of your thin frame and perhaps because of the length of the suit. What is the listed size of the suit in the picture? Whatever it is, it looks to big for you. Perhaps you should consider going a size down. I'm guessing your true size is...
  9. Professor Χάος

    Which Summer Suit

    It's hard to tell from the pictures. Appropriate length and silhouette depend largely upon your height and frame. You look relatively tall and thin. How tall are you if you don't mind the question? What is your approximate weight? How long is your suit jacket, measured from the base of the...
  10. Professor Χάος

    Gaziano & Girling Appreciation & Shoe Appreciation Thread (including reviews, purchases, pictures)

    I'm not a cobbler, but I took it to the local shoe repair service, and they fixed it. I still have photos, but what response would you expect?
  11. Professor Χάος

    Gaziano & Girling Appreciation & Shoe Appreciation Thread (including reviews, purchases, pictures)

    Yes..the heel separated from the upper. What am I supposed to ask about? It was a relatively easy fix.
  12. Professor Χάος

    Which Summer Suit

    My apologies, but your suit jackets seem kind of long for your height, and they don't seem to be well-tailored. Even your shirt-sleeves seem a little long. Is there another option? It takes guts to post your picture on this forum, and I am unlikely to do so. So while I applaud your courage, I...
  13. Professor Χάος

    Gaziano & Girling Appreciation & Shoe Appreciation Thread (including reviews, purchases, pictures)

    Hello Gentlemen, At the risk of having an army of G&G enthusiasts jump down my throat, I'm going to post an unfavorable review. In terms of styling G&G are obviously beautiful shoes. I bought 2 pairs of TG73, the classic cherry St James II, and the other a Grant, in black. Both are fine...
  14. Professor Χάος

    Enzo Bonafe Handmade Shoes.

    This is indeed disturbing. My first pair of Vass where wholecut F last, and they arrived with some deep creasing on the same area of one shoe. I returned it for a remade pair, which arrived in perfect condition. I personally expect my shoes to arrive in pristine condition, unless I'm buying...
  15. Professor Χάος

    Gaziano & Girling Appreciation & Shoe Appreciation Thread (including reviews, purchases, pictures)

    I'll reserve judgement until I've worn my G&Gs a few more times. Another element is that in my current position I'm walking a lot more. I live downtown and walk everywhere, instead of taking taxis, and doing so on new shoes is causing extra stress on my feet.
  16. Professor Χάος

    Gaziano & Girling Appreciation & Shoe Appreciation Thread (including reviews, purchases, pictures)

    OK. I remember reading about this a while back. Zegna hired a new creative director who made a deal with G&G. They look pretty slick.
  17. Professor Χάος

    Gaziano & Girling Appreciation & Shoe Appreciation Thread (including reviews, purchases, pictures)

    I've seen G&G made for RLPL and Paul Stuart Select as well. They're standard G&G models, with PS inserts.
  18. Professor Χάος

    Gaziano & Girling Appreciation & Shoe Appreciation Thread (including reviews, purchases, pictures)

    And, presumably, thinner soles are less costly to manufacture, and wear out more quickly. When I was younger, I thought Moreschi were excellent shoes, and I had never heard of JL, EG, G&G, Norwegian-welted SM, not to mention Antonio Meccariello or Vass. Moreschi are usually Blake-stitched and...
  19. Professor Χάος

    Gaziano & Girling Appreciation & Shoe Appreciation Thread (including reviews, purchases, pictures)

    From what I've seen Blake-stitched soles tend to be thinner, although that may not a function of the Blake-stitching process itself (lest shoe making experts jump down my throat). I remember DFWII deriding GY welting as a fancy glue job, and I believe he viewed Blake-stitching as a more...
  20. Professor Χάος

    Gaziano & Girling Appreciation & Shoe Appreciation Thread (including reviews, purchases, pictures)

    Zegna's regular shoes are Blake-stitched, but every pair of Couture that I've seen are GY welted. Other ZC may be Blake-stitched however. I can't say for sure.

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