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Search results

  1. w.efelaborde

    The Bespoke Shoes Thread

    The short answer is no and it depends/doesn't matter.. Finding the sort of old stock leather which is suited to bespoke quality shoes must be taken as a form of 'sport' or pastime in itself. It demands huge amounts of time, involvement and determination. There is no one destination to find it...
  2. w.efelaborde

    The Bespoke Shoes Thread

    The major difference is that modern tanned aniline box calf hides are much bigger, because the animals are bigger. For example the last box calf hide I purchased from Annonay in my records comes in at a whopping 2.24 m2. Most Freudenberg box calf skins rarely go above 1.2 m2 in size (half the...
  3. w.efelaborde

    The Bespoke Shoes Thread

    Only a guess from the picture, but it looks like a Black Suede calf with Scotch grain embossing. Very unusual and nice
  4. w.efelaborde

    The Bespoke Shoes Thread

    What type of leather will this be made with - smooth/grained/colour? It's interesting to remember a Norwegian can be stitched with blond or dark waxed thread - which will contrast or match to the leather shade. Visually different results
  5. w.efelaborde

    The Bespoke Shoes Thread

    It's not that unusual.. It gets trickier for the last maker when a similar situation occurs with the big toe, stylistically it gets a little challenging. Depending on your morphology and 'type' of foot (fleshy/boney) generally the best approach is to apply gentle pressure in the muscle area...
  6. w.efelaborde

    The Bespoke Shoes Thread

    No apologies needed, it was just a very roundabout way of praising yours and your shoemaker's work :)
  7. w.efelaborde

    The Bespoke Shoes Thread

    Well it's an old argument which has been excessively discussed.. ('Ad nauseam' springs to mind.) but I don't think 16 spi and up makes for any lesser binding between welt and sole. Considering we spend a shoe's entire life compressing the welt and sole together - unless you accidentally take a...
  8. w.efelaborde

    The Bespoke Shoes Thread

    The smaller size welt stitch complements the shoe and grain of the leather. Is that 14 spi?
  9. w.efelaborde

    The Bespoke Shoes Thread

    Doesn't look like there is a toe puff in there.. regardless of starch or not. If you can push it down and it springs back up like that - there is no toe puff, or at least nothing of sufficient substance that should be doing what a toe puff should be doing which is stiffening that area so it...
  10. w.efelaborde

    The Bespoke Shoes Thread

    It depends how the shoemaker works. Classically speaking the length of the facing (area where the laces sit) corresponds to 1/4 the length of the last used (roughly 7cm for a UK size 8 for example). This convention is particularly valid for an Oxford or Derby. Whether you choose 4, 5 or maybe...
  11. w.efelaborde

    The Bespoke Shoes Thread

    In normal circumstances, and speaking as a shoemaker - self-respect and pride in one's work would be all that is required to solve things for a client. However, it looks as though things are quite stuck. An excellent form of leverage would to be to write a formal letter, quoting and reminding...

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