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Search results

  1. Testudo_Aubreii

    Nicholas Templeman: A Bespoke Shoemaker

    It can be sueded/shaved or nubucked on the grain side. And gator items can be made flesh-out (reversed). Though whether any of that's desirable is debated.
  2. Testudo_Aubreii

    Shoemaking Techniques and Traditions--"...these foolish things..."

    In DWF's honor, I thought I'd update mw's below list of North American custom boot and shoe makers. Sadly, several have closed up shop since mw wrote. SF hasn't done very well by these folks, I feel. If anyone should be wanting the better fit that custom-made footwear will give you, and be...
  3. Testudo_Aubreii

    Ongoing Bespoke Projects

    If it's cotton velvet, and a first commission from the tailor, I'd proceed with extreme caution. Cotton is tough to tailor well. And it doesn't do a great job of holding its shape. And there's the problem of ironwork on velvet. And more. See Chris Despos's posts on the subject. There is 100%...
  4. Testudo_Aubreii

    The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

    IMO, it needs letting out at the back waist and in the seat/skirts--vents flaring means the seat is a bit tight. Would be easier to judge collar fit if you were wearing a shirt buttoned at the neck. But the front, upper back, and sleeves look good. So if the collar fits, I'd take it to a good...
  5. Testudo_Aubreii

    John Lobb sizing/last advice

    Just for another perspective. For the US retail price of a Lobb on the 8000 last--a gemmed factory-made shoe--you could bespeak a last at Springline (~350 GBP), ship that last to Rozsnyai in Budapest, and get at least two pairs of handclicked, handlasted, handwelted shoes or even boots--with...
  6. Testudo_Aubreii

    The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

    Looks good from the front, assuming you'll be wearing it with that sweater. Need pics from both sides and the back if you want useful opinions.
  7. Testudo_Aubreii

    Tie Length

    ^ and ^^ The answer for optimal tie fit. Best is the tip of the blade hitting the top of the waistband. Like Felix Leiter's on the left here. If it hits at about the bottom of the waistband, that's okay. There's more debate about shorter fits. A bit above the waistband is okay. But not likely to...
  8. Testudo_Aubreii

    Buttons on big chest

    I have about 20 shirts from Hemrajani, based on an in-person fitting. Happy with them. They'll come around to their locations. You can e-mail to inquire about their schedule. Yes, Luxire's system is that you gradually dial in the fit over several orders. If you want something sooner, you can go...
  9. Testudo_Aubreii

    The state of white tie

    Glad to hear it. Splendid suit, by the way. Your tailor knows what they're doing. Enjoy. It resembles Leonard Bernstein's, although his sleeveheads have no/much less roping, and his shoulders look a touch more extended. Though not as much as Astaire's. Hard to get shoulders like Astaire's now...
  10. Testudo_Aubreii

    Buttons on big chest

    Divij Hemrajani (see MyTailor/Hemrajani Bros. thread) is maybe the MTM shirtmaker most used by SF members in the US. They generally visit most of their named locations four times a year, updating several months out from the visit. They draft your own shirt pattern, so it's higher-end MTM. A...
  11. Testudo_Aubreii

    Buttons on big chest

    Your chest is too big for that shirt. Look around for RTW cuts with a more generous chest and the same waist measure. Or, better yet: yes, go MTM. Divij is very good if you're in US and can get to a fitting.
  12. Testudo_Aubreii

    The state of white tie

    I'm glad Chai revived this thread. Not sure I understand what "sleeves connect directly to the coat's body" means. The dance tailcoats I see on the web have set-in sleeves, not raglan or something else. They have no shoulder padding, a very tight, high armhole, nearly skin-tight sleeve, and...
  13. Testudo_Aubreii

    HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part IV (starting May 2014)

    @upr_crust . All splendid. The homburg looks great with that rig. Sleeker than the bowler.
  14. Testudo_Aubreii

    HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part IV (starting May 2014)

    IMO, it'd all work beautifully if the tie were green, and the shirt a light pink or light orange. Tie ground picking up accent in jacket = tried and true principle. With that jacket-shirt-vest combo, I'd be reaching for mid-brown ties. (Newbs: We discussed this and similar in TweedyProf's CM...
  15. Testudo_Aubreii

    Top 14 list of shoes under $500 for newbies

    Could well be. The current Argentum Welt page where the method is described is vague about how exactly it works. Clearer about how it doesn't work (no glued-on rib). I was basing that on DWF's 2020 post that I linked to, the one about the "Argentum Welt" construction for which AM asked DWF's...
  16. Testudo_Aubreii

    Top 14 list of shoes under $500 for newbies

    Yes, assuming that Vass are still handclicked, handlasted, handwelted, and (mostly or totally) handsoled (and I have no reason to doubt they still are), they seem one of the best values out there for shoes. Vass's shoe quality/dollar charged ratio would then be one of the best in the world, if...
  17. Testudo_Aubreii

    Top 14 list of shoes under $500 for newbies

    On edit: When I mentioned Rancourt as possible single-sole B/R, I meant their "Blake Welt Stitched Construction." They say that is midsoled B/R here. And it looks like they sometimes put a (fake?) welt on top of that midsole. So never mind. Should be a fairly-easy resole. P. S. My own...
  18. Testudo_Aubreii

    Top 14 list of shoes under $500 for newbies

    Agree that many North American cobblers are unfamiliar with Blake/Rapid. Doubt resoling a midsoled-B/R is more difficult than for GYW, though. Uses the same Rapid stitcher as GYW. And the whole thing's more stable than GYW because of the midsole. In what Bengal described as a single-soled...
  19. Testudo_Aubreii

    First Pair of Lobb Ltd. Boots. Am I making any mistakes?

    I had made for me (what I'd call) a wholecut Chelsea out of a cowhide I brought them. No blind stitches, though: they're visible around the elastic and at the heel counter. I'd ask this in the Bespoke Shoes thread. And search for "blind stitches," though that mostly turns up closed-channel...
  20. Testudo_Aubreii

    Top 14 list of shoes under $500 for newbies

    This list is quite helpful; thanks, BColl. It looks like Carmina will soon pass the 500 excl VAT threshold. So we probably need an update. Also, the list is a bit NYC-centric. Understandable, because SF trends NYC-centric. If I were near Italy, in this price bracket, I'd be looking at...

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