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  1. ericjens7

    The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

    Looks like the back balance is long. You stand more erect than the coat is cut, thus creating the folds and bunching at your small of back. This excess needs to be taken out at the shoulders and requires very expert and expensive tailoring. My best advice is to return and find a new coat cut...
  2. ericjens7

    Ongoing Bespoke Projects

    It’s not the hand padding that ensures the lack of a gap. In fact it has little to do with it. I was talking about when the collar is attached to the coat itself. There are reasons beyond the hand padding and the putting on of the collar that can attribute to a gap. Mostly regarding the cut of...
  3. ericjens7

    Ongoing Bespoke Projects

    This can be the case with a collar that is machined rather than hand placed. When attaching a collar by hand the maker has control over where the fullness is applied. This is important as it “snugs” the collar up to the neck. A machine does not provide the operator to have said control.
  4. ericjens7

    Bespoke tailors who visit New York

    Happy to be apart of this list!
  5. ericjens7

    1701 Bespoke Review? (Detroit)

    My comment is in reference to the name which carries the word bespoke and the finished garment. A bespoke tailor should have adjusted for the gentleman’s low right at the very least. Sleeve pitch is off, back is long and judging by the photos I would assume that with wear the collar starts to...
  6. ericjens7

    1701 Bespoke Review? (Detroit)

    If it’s really bespoke then they did a poor job of fitting you.
  7. ericjens7

    Where can I find a nice Pin Collar/Bar Collar dress shirt in NYC?

    Buy a shirt. But a vintage safety pin that was used for ones collar. Put pin through collar. Found nice pin collar dress shirt.
  8. ericjens7

    The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

    These are a mess and should be returned or demand a remake. I can't believe someone let you leave the store with those. An easy fix would be digging out the seat. That should have been done upone pick up. Other than that you seem to have a low left hip that needed to be addressed on the...
  9. ericjens7

    The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

    There is no way this is proper Bespoke from a tailor. It's a mess and you should honestly ask for your money back. The trousers were not cut for you forward hips. The jacket is too tight all over. Your pronounced blades were not accounted for. The back might be short but it's hard to tell...
  10. ericjens7

    The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

    @IssaBoulos The pants are a mess and would need significant improvements done on the cutting table. The jacket is a bit of a mess too. You have sloped shoulders that were not accounted for. And a low right. You have pronounced blades and it looks like the fronts are long and the back is short...
  11. ericjens7

    The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

    The fact that there is fusing on the lapel is a bad sign and in my opinion shows laziness on the part of the tailor. As far as the lapel width goes it cannot be and will not be made any larger. However there seems to be a notch more near the center of the lapel which maybe where the tailor...
  12. ericjens7

    The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

    The someone I am referring to is two fold. First the purchaser who is importing measurements that he retrieved either by asking a friend or family member to take or by measuring a previously purchased suit. Second someone is the factory making the suit. Sure they have quality persons making...
  13. ericjens7

    The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

    I don't know why you would try again. I wouldn't try again even if they paid me. This is the problem with MTM and especially online MTM. I have been an apprentice tailor for 7 years now and I'm not a master. How do you suppose someone with no training can get a fit even remotely close? I...
  14. ericjens7

    The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

    ^ I really don't think that is a good idea. Usually those drag marks indicate sloped shoulders. It would be easier to tell in person if the coat needs to be taken in but those drag marks are not indicative of a loose fit.
  15. ericjens7

    The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

    You have pronounced blades and a really low right shoulder. Your left blade is more pronounced too. All of these fixes have to be done when the coat is cut. It's also too tight. I can't tell if the fronts are short.
  16. ericjens7

    3 inch lapel measurement

    If non tailors do actually think they should measure the lapel width in such a manner they would be wrong. You are completely changing the dynamics of the lapel, gorge and collar. It is unnecessary to go through all of that in order to obtain the lapel width. It's best to adhere to how your...
  17. ericjens7

    3 inch lapel measurement

    You do realize that your measurement is the same as his? For some reason you just measured off into the distance while he measured the actual lapel. If you want your gorge higher ( the place where the lapel attaches to the collar) that's another thing. But as it pertains to the lapel width when...
  18. ericjens7

    Help on fit

    I would say have them remake but it is a gamble. I would have an honest conversation with them about what they can and can't do in regards to cutting a suit with your specific issues in mind. If they alter the suit you currently have they won't be able to do much about how tight the coat is or...
  19. ericjens7

    Help on fit

    It depends on how much you are willing to settle. We all have "tough to fit" bodies. I am of the opinion that we all need bespoke suits (in a perfect world). The problem with MTM is that a salesman or alterationist with no fit experience is taking custom measurements. And then trying to...

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