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  1. jefferyd

    A different full/half canvas, fused/sewn question: When does it matter most?

    That is correct. If by this you mean canvas that is fused to the front, this is incorrect. It is not always true that a fused suit doesn't drape as well. In some circumstances a fused suit might drape even better than a canvas suit. A light-colored suit might look better with a fused front...
  2. jefferyd

    So I started a clothing company...

    Castangia coat- hand sewn mezzaluna without the bar tack Chinese hand-sewn bar tack (looped, not buttonhole stitch) with mezzaluna Ambrosi buttonhole stitch bar tack
  3. jefferyd

    So I started a clothing company...

    Yes. The bar tack can help on the back pockets which are subject to a lot more strain that coat pockets but the mezzaluna is superfluous.
  4. jefferyd

    So I started a clothing company...

    On handmade garments that stitching is sometimes done by hand to secure the ends of the pocket jets. It's kinda bogus on machine-made pockets- they'r'e not really needed as the pockets are much stronger, it's just done for decoration. Plus I hate the bar tack because it makes it extremely...
  5. jefferyd

    So I started a clothing company...

    This. Absolutely. Also stick to lighter colors in case you need to send photos to the workshop or factory- darker colors are really hard to read in photos.
  6. jefferyd

    So I started a clothing company...

    If you found that exhausting, don't even consider Premiere Vision or Idea Biella... Three to five days of flipping through swatches can kill you.
  7. jefferyd

    So I started a clothing company...

    I've been to their factory. A very respectable product.
  8. jefferyd

    Roger Stone's attire

    We regularly do lots of cool, nichey stuff, but the retailers are generally afraid Last year they introduced a new model called RL67 as it was “inspired” by a coat Ralph bought back then and still wears. And it has a 4” lapel. I hear it sold out.
  9. jefferyd

    Roger Stone's attire

    Nick Pollica had a lot of freedom to discuss his work online, freedom which I am not afforded. :confused2: But thank you for your kind words.
  10. jefferyd

    Roger Stone's attire

    Yes. I also created some new silhouettes but they don't have a huge market penetration. During the last HMX bankruptcy the IP was acquired by Authentic Brands Group and the owner at the time kept manufacturing and licensed the HF label back from them. The HF factory was later sold off to the...
  11. jefferyd

    Roger Stone's attire

    I can't, personally, comment publicly so unless things are in the public domain, like what was discussed at the press conference, I'm not allowed to say. He is proud of buying all his suits at our warehouse sales. "I am frugal", he said. So he buys the older stuff which is cheaper, I guess.
  12. jefferyd

    Roger Stone's attire

  13. jefferyd

    Roger Stone's attire

    Yes but for some reason the forum won't let me upload the pic... says it's too big at 387 k
  14. jefferyd

    Roger Stone's attire

    Senator Schumer (and LT Gov Hochul, and US Rep Joe Morelle and State Senator Joe Robach) was back with us today.
  15. jefferyd

    Roger Stone's attire

    8" drop is only "relatively normal" because of the amount of vanity sizing built into trousers these days, which ranges from 1" to 2 1/2". That photo (which cannot be unseen...) doesn't look like much more than an 8" drop- a lat spread makes the chest look much wider than it actually is.
  16. jefferyd

    Roger Stone's attire

    The drop is calculated by subtracting the waist from the chest, not from the shoulders. 46" shoulders would be standard to a size 40 chest, making that an 8" drop, not 14". Not sure if it was mentioned but I had read somewhere that he was a customer at A&S, at least at one point, and I can...
  17. jefferyd

    Roger Stone's attire

    American Woolens was a ginormous operation which was eventually run (into the ground) by Lori Piana. When LP decided to shutter, thankfully some people decided to rescue it. Jacob Long has been doing a great job of resucitating the mill.
  18. jefferyd

    Roger Stone's attire

    Thanks! Done already! Yes, Darren is in Rochester now. He had been at Hart Schaffner Marx for a brief period, went back to the UK and is now in Rochester.

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