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  1. Lensmaster

    The State of Black Tie: Your Observations

    In the 1927 movie Hula Clive Brook wears a dinner jacket with white pants. Seems to have been a tropical variation for a while.
  2. Lensmaster

    Sustainable Menswear?

    The OP simply asked for recommendations of brands that are attempting to support sustainability in their business. I don't have any answers for the question myself right now. I came to this thread to see the answers to that question. A few people made useful responses. Some people made comments...
  3. Lensmaster

    The State of Black Tie: Your Observations

    It doesn't directly correspond with a shawl collar. I think they look best when the lapel gets a bit wider towards the bottom, think of Bogart's dinner jacket in Casablanca. If the wide part then is about the same dimension as if it was at the shoulder it seems to look balanced.
  4. Lensmaster

    The State of Black Tie: Your Observations

    I'm not sure what pattern matching is the problem. Is it that on the lapels the lines are angled out and on the body they are vertical? That looks right to me. If the lines on both were in identical direction the lapels would tend to blend with the body and not stand out, and the angle gives the...
  5. Lensmaster

    The State of Black Tie: Your Observations

    I have the same problem with mine. Maybe you will come up with a solution for all of us.
  6. Lensmaster

    The State of Black Tie: Your Observations

    I think a cummerbund is most common with a shawl collar, but a waist coat with a shawl style collar would look good. I think the cummerbund is an important part of the Dinner jacket look. It covers the waistband and makes the legs look longer. For those who say they just never unbutton their...
  7. Lensmaster

    The State of Black Tie: Your Observations

    That first line is the reasoning I give when, in arguing for wearing something that is breaking a "rule" of blacktie, someone pulls up a picture of a famous person doing that very thing. An example is when explaining that notch lapels are not looked upon favorably for black tie someone will say...
  8. Lensmaster

    The State of Black Tie: Your Observations

    Even without her there some of the men look shabby in their ill-fitting clothes. A good tailor would have improved everything.
  9. Lensmaster

    The State of Black Tie: Your Observations

    Is there any way for us in the U.S. to buy from them?
  10. Lensmaster

    The State of Black Tie: Your Observations

    Oh, that is a good consideration
  11. Lensmaster

    The State of Black Tie: Your Observations

    I was thinking if I get a dinner jacket in cream linen I would want it unlined or half lined for coolness, but is that wise or should it be lined to prevent my pants from showing through the lightweight material?
  12. Lensmaster

    The State of Black Tie: Your Observations

    Ok. Thanks
  13. Lensmaster

    The State of Black Tie: Your Observations

    Are there any MTM companies that make a good cream dinner jacket? I'm interested in shawl lapel, single breasted, high armholes (one of the reasons I'm reluctant to chance OTC jackets). I would like under $200. If not reasonable how much over that must I go?
  14. Lensmaster

    The State of Black Tie: Your Observations

    Great Jacket. Linen?
  15. Lensmaster

    The State of Black Tie: Your Observations

    I don't have a special fragrance for black tie either.
  16. Lensmaster

    The State of Black Tie: Your Observations

    I say if you can wear a fluffy wig and lots of lace go for it.
  17. Lensmaster

    The State of Black Tie: Your Observations

    For the early 70's this is quite subdued. It's not surprising that a bit of 70's flash would creep into his wardrobe at the time.
  18. Lensmaster

    The State of Black Tie: Your Observations

    Every narrow cummerbund I've had was useless. It needs to have some coverage to be useful. The cummerbund isn't to be centered on the waistband. It's purpose is to cover the waistband yes, but to cover the space from the waistband to the shirt placate also. If you are wearing pants that properly...
  19. Lensmaster

    The State of Black Tie: Your Observations

    In reading comments on this discussion it sounds like there might be confusion on the terms used for the different pleats. I want to make sure I understand what people are saying. The way I understand it the direction a pleat faces means the direction the opening faces. So forward pleats the...
  20. Lensmaster

    HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part IV (starting May 2014)

    The school I work at had dress up day to encourage the students to dress well.

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