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  1. ltontheqt

    Darts vs. Non-Darts in Tailored Clothing

    My tailor, an old-school American guy, does not use darts. Are they a stylistic preference or is there a definitive reason for them relative to fit?
  2. ltontheqt

    The Sports Coat/Orphan Suit Jacket Conundrum

    I ordered a DB Hopsack Dark Navy Blazer from WW Chan. Patrick recommended brass buttons. I'm not that fond of them, so went with brown horn. I am having second thoughts. I don't want the jacket to look like the dreaded suit orphan. Do you think there's much danger of that in this instance, or...
  3. ltontheqt

    The One-Stop Where to Find Thread

    I thought it would be a good idea to have a thread dedicated to questions about sourcing various goods rather than a bunch of different threads. I'll start with Jamieson Shetland sweaters. These are difficult to find. It seems Ben Silver stopped carrying them, and Oi Polloi, where I purchased a...
  4. ltontheqt

    Looking for Navy Overcoat

    You'd think that finding a basic but nice navy overcoat would be easy. To my surprise, it has not been. I am willing to spend up to $1,000. Steer me in the right direction.
  5. ltontheqt

    Are Toe Plates Absolutely Necessary?

    I recently visited a cobbler who has been repairing shoes longer than many of us have been alive. I asked him to put toe plates on one of my nicer pairs of shoes. He responded that unless you're brutal on your shoes, it's not necessary. He went to say, without much explanation, that the toe...
  6. ltontheqt

    Cappelli Ties: What's the Hoopla About?

    There was no real need, but out of curiosity I decided to purchase two Cappelli ties directly from Naples. The ties are solid with good, heavy silk and appear to be well-made. However, I can't coax a dimple out of them. Anyway, I wore one and did get a compliment. Still, even though the ties are...
  7. ltontheqt

    Rounded Breast Pocket on Suit: Yes or No?

    I just made my first visit to Chan in NY to get measured for a suit. Patrick asked me if I wanted a rounded breast pocket rather than angled and I said yes. But now I wonder if that is too casual for a sharkskin suit. His suit had that style pocket and it did not strike me as beyond the pale...
  8. ltontheqt

    Zelli Shoes: Decent or Total Crap?

    I saw a pair of Zelli brown suede split toe bluchers in a shop window the other day. I decided to go in and inspect. They looked fairly nice, but I recall Zelli as a catalog brand, and this gave me pause. Does anyone have experience with them? My search here yielded little information.
  9. ltontheqt

    Opinions on Blackwatch

    Someone on the forum recently characterized Blackwatch as of the moment. That prompts my question. I am weighing whether to buy a D.S. Dundee Blackwatch overshirt (aka shirt jacket) from J Press. The fabric looks very nice and from my limited experience Dundee makes good products. The colors...
  10. ltontheqt

    Problems Ordering from Companies Overseas

    I have been trying to inquire about and perhaps order an item, pending shipping costs, from a Spanish store named Lander Urquijo for a week-and-half. Anyone familiar with this store? Have you had success ordering from them either in the U.S. or Europe? You are asked to submit questions, but I...
  11. ltontheqt

    Making a Sweater Trimmer

    Recently, in a thread I can't find, a member wrote about taking his sweaters to a knitting tailor for adjustment when they are too bulky. He said it was inexpensive to do, and the results have been good. In this case, the tailor was in San Francisco. How does one find such a specialist locally...
  12. ltontheqt

    Help Me Find a Suit for My 20-Year-Old Son

    My son attends Princeton and hopes to join one of the eating clubs next year. He visited one last night on an invitation. Alas, he had to wear one of my long-in-the-tooth hand me down suits, not at all flattering, prompting my wife to suggest we buy him a proper one. He does not have time for...
  13. ltontheqt

    Advice on Shirt Jacket

    Inspired by Will, I am about to take the plunge and have a shirt jacket made by My Tailor (Joe Hemrajani). I foresee wearing it in early fall but would also like it to be versatile enough that I can get use during the spring as well. What type of cloth would you recommend? Solid, patterned?
  14. ltontheqt

    Cuffing Big Patterned Pants

    I know some cuff all pants other than jeans and moleskins. Still, would you cuff pants with a distinct pattern; in other words, not very subdued? Would that accentuate the loudness?
  15. ltontheqt

    Are quilted coats feminine?

    I have been thinking for some time about acquiring a quilted jacket. It would give me a different look than the other outerwear I own. However, I end up stopping short because either I have not found something to my liking or I wonder whether it's a bad look for a guy. I saw a thin Asian guy in...
  16. ltontheqt

    Corduroy Shirt Jacket

    I have taken a shine to shirt jackets after seeing Will's. They seem very useful, and I imagine they become even better as they are lived in. The discussion on LL piqued my interest further. Anyway, I'd like to have one made if the cost is not prohibitive. So first, I wonder how much one would...
  17. ltontheqt

    Pink Pants: Yea or Nay?

    I may have an opportunity to buy light pink Chino Linos, and although I own some colorful pants, I am not sure whether I can pull these off. Pink shirts, undoubtedly. Pink sweater, maybe. Pink pants, hmmm. Would you wear pink pants? Make a case for why they look good. Do you have to have a...
  18. ltontheqt

    Yes or No on Shoe Inserts

    I just received a beautiful pair of C&J Cliffords. I misunderstood PLAL's advice and ended up with shoes that are a bit too big. They slide a little. With tongue pads they are better. Would heel pads help as well? Another option is to put in Dr. Scholl-like inserts. I found some discussion...
  19. ltontheqt

    Moleskin Sportcoat: Should I?

    I am considering the purchase of moleskin cloth from Andrew. I love moleskin trousers and this is an option. Or, I might have a tailor make me a moleskin sportcoat. Could I wear that with, say, a wool tie? How about if I used it as outerwear on a nice fall day? I'm not necessarily sold on the...
  20. ltontheqt

    FYI Ron Rider Boots

    Oops. Here's the link. http://www.francos.com/items/index.a...027&catID=0013

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