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  1. quill

    Jos Bank vs. Men's Warehouse

    Thanks, aybojs. I certainly understood the intent of what alchimiste stated, and it's clear you understood it as well. I simply mean that even in an environment where you may not need to use a superior knowledge of apparel, having it doesn't hurt, and can always help you help others better...or...
  2. quill

    Jos Bank vs. Men's Warehouse

    (aybojs @ June 17 2005,09:02) I agree that there needs to be more knowledge taught to the sales staff Why would you need to be knowledgeable about good clothes if it's not what you have for sale? Not to be disrespectful, alchimiste, but that's a cheap shot. aybojs was willing to speak up, in...
  3. quill

    Fabric ends/picks/M

    I don't know what the picture refers to, but I'm now guessing (based on the number 17.5) that M stands for "microns," the measure of fineness of fiber. Micron numbers tend to run...what?...from 22 microns down to 12 or so, depending on the fiber. Some merino wools can be 18, 17, 16...
  4. quill

    Fabric ends/picks/M

    Just earlier terms for warp and weft. Ends are the same as warp: the threads run vertical, top to bottom. Picks are the "fill" threads, same as weft: they run horizontal, side to side. I don't know what M stands for. But our modern term for "end on end" fabric is actually a bastardization of...
  5. quill

    Belt Buckle

    Sorry, FFW, I don't have any advice for you, but I find it strange that you didn't get any replies - because I've always heard (and I could be wrong) that men look at buckles when buying a belt. Is this true? Do any of you who are belt shopping bypass a belt, assuming you like the leather, if...
  6. quill

    Wrinkle Resistant wool for suits

    (quill @ May 02 2005,21:31) Typically, a wrinkle is formed when hydrogen bonds between chains in the fabric structure are broken and then reformed in the new position. In wrinkle-resistant treatments, strong covalent bonds replace weaker hydrogen bonds, giving the molecules more stability in...
  7. quill

    Wrinkle Resistant wool for suits

    I don't know much about "treatments" for wool that make it wrinkle resistant, but I know that wool can be naturally wrinkle resistant. Typically, a wrinkle is formed when hydrogen bonds between chains in the fabric structure are broken and then reformed in the new position. In wrinkle-resistant...
  8. quill

    History of Fusing in jackets?

    I think it's important to note that 4Mica was quoting from the link that was posted. I have to admit, at first reading, I thought 4Mica himself was advocating that fusibles are higher quality than non-fusibles...which I'm sure most forum members would have strong opinions about.
  9. quill

    Hemp trousers from Orvis

    It's the ol' "plants vs. pants" hypocrisy.
  10. quill

    Hemp trousers from Orvis

    Yes, but you have to put the setting on "high."
  11. quill

    Hemp trousers from Orvis

    After a day of wearing, just throw them in the...hemper.
  12. quill

    Hemp trousers from Orvis

    Only if you're at the end of your (can't resist)...rope.
  13. quill

    pants, socks, and shoes

    I think Flusser states that the eye should flow uninterruptedly from the trousers down to the floor. In other words, if you're wearing khaki-colored trousers, the eye shouldn't be "stopped" at the ankle by a stark contrast of color (i.e., if you're wearing brown shoes at the time, the...
  14. quill

    Shell Cordovan Pictures

    I suspected, but I must admit I had to look it up (philistine that I am): HIPPOPH'AGY, n. [Gr. a horse, and to eat.] The act or practice of feeding on horses.
  15. quill

    Shell Cordovan Pictures

    ... or one-piece belts for toddlers and infants.
  16. quill

    Go EAST, Young Man!

    ...this is all getting more interesting by the minute.
  17. quill

    Go EAST, Young Man!

    NOW we're getting to the heart of the matter. Thank you, countedemoney, for your professional insights. I guess this topic really can't avoid discussions of politics and economics, as these issues will certainly figure into China's future vis-a-vis apparel and other goods. But my original intent...
  18. quill

    Go EAST, Young Man!

    Thanks for your perspective, newyorker. I appreciate it. But alas, I've betrayed my own thread. So, to get back on topic: Have any of you actually bought any suits/sportcoats/shirts/shoes/belts/accessories/etc. from designers/sources you knew to be Chinese? (and I'm not including here the...
  19. quill

    Go EAST, Young Man!

    (StagRaven @ April 12 2005,20:10) Thomas Friedman writes almost exclusively on this subject, and just released his latest, I am so sorry, but I don't think any scholar should take anything that Thomas Friedman writes seriously. He is superficially writing on subjects neither commesurate with his...
  20. quill

    Go EAST, Young Man!

    WOW. Thank you, montecristo#4 (btw: what did you do with montecristos #1, 2, and 3?) and StagRaven; both your reference are very interesting. So...now that we've established that China is hot on our heels (most likely in shoes that were made by them in the first place) ... and ... trying to keep...

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