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  1. Montauk

    Rory Duffy: The Unmaking of a Coat

    It’s been two years since I first trumpeted Rory Duffy here on Styleforum, announcing a video series I was producing which would offer an unprecedentedly detailed look into his Brooklyn-based practice of Henry Poole-trained bespoke tailoring. It’s been almost a year since that series -- “The...
  2. Montauk

    "The Making of a Coat" with Rory Duffy (VIDEOS)

    Earlier this year, I announced the production of a new series of web videos featuring the step-by-step making of a sportcoat by Rory Duffy--a NYC-based master tailor who in 2009 won the Golden Shears Award in London while an apprentice at Henry Poole & Co on Savile Row. I’d met Duffy last...
  3. Montauk

    Rory Duffy Bespoke - A Savile Row master tailor in NYC

    It's been awhile since I perused or posted on this forum, but I wanted to help spread the word about Rory Duffy--the Henry Poole-trained winner of the 2009 Golden Shears Award on Savile Row who's hung his shingle in Brooklyn. He's making me my first bespoke commission--a 3B single-breasted...
  4. Montauk

    Question for tailors: using fusible to reinforce a repair

    Ok, so last year I blew out the trouser seat on my most beloved RLPL dove gray flannel 3pc suit (due to an unwisely atheletic manuever, not poor fit, and no ice cream cones were involved). Horrifyingly, they didn't rip on the seam, but right beside it, and a few inches down the thigh...
  5. Montauk

    Domenico Spano in the NYTimes?

    I've never personally met the man, but the unnamed gent in this article certainly looks like him: http://www.nytimes.com/2011/04/17/ma....html?src=recg For those who don't know who I'm talking about: http://www.filmnoirbuff.com/article/...parel-arts-man
  6. Montauk

    Fashion forecasts

    Yes, I know we all hate "fashion," but to the extent that "style" evolves over time, we have to call that evolution something, and sorry--"fashion" is what the English language has given us. We're all in it. It's part of how history keeps time. Right, then--so where do we think it's going with...
  7. Montauk

    PSA: Sinatra event Friday night in NYC (3/10)

    If any of my fellow denizens of Gotham are looking for something to do tomorrow night, I'd highly recommend tomorrow's Sinatra tribute event at the Edison Ballroom: http://www.thesalon.biz/ For those unfamiliar with it, the Salon has been throwing great Gatsbyish parties (usually at the Player's...
  8. Montauk

    The Man In The White Suit (1951)

    Watched this yesterday. Outstanding clothes--not least the eponymous DB. Of particular note was this very interesting shoulder treatment on Alec Guiness' tweed sportcoat (see attached pic). I've never seen pleats there before, but clearly they're designed to give drapey ease over the shoulder...
  9. Montauk

    Whither Vox?

    Arrested? Institutionalized? Employed? I really miss him.
  10. Montauk

    Black tie blunder at the White House

    (No, it wasn't Obama, although his notch lapel tux won't get much love here ;-) Didn't the Chinese delegation read the dress code on the invitation? http://www.nytimes.com/slideshow/201...ATEDINNER.html
  11. Montauk

    Brooklyn Tweed Ride

    http://nymag.com/daily/intel/2010/11...e.html#photo=1 Couldn't have asked for a better way to spend a fall afternoon. Made me feel all warm and scratchy. Caldervale and myself represented for SF, but we really should have a larger presence next year.
  12. Montauk

    Tom Mahon: An Englishcut in New York

    I had the pleasure last night of attending Thomas Mahon's gathering in the back room of Ten Bells in Manhattan. Approximately 15 attendees paid $150 each for a chance to win a bespoke suit, with all proceeds going to City Harvest. Good odds, but at $150 a pop, I'm afraid I'm no gambler, and so...
  13. Montauk

    [ahem] "Boning" shoes?

    Although I'm sure we have some podophiles in our midst rather too excited about the title of this thread, I'm referring here to a practice once regarded as a regular part of assiduous shoe maintenance by George Frazier and other antique authorities. I'm dimly aware of a German-made boning tool...
  14. Montauk

    Time Out New York's feature on bespoke suits

    http://newyork.timeout.com/articles/...cmpid=TD072110 [shudder]
  15. Montauk

    Removing edge dressing from uppers?

    I just picked up an otherwise nice pair of AEs that look like a lazy chimp applied the edge dressing. Anyone have any bright ideas how to clean this stuff off the uppers?
  16. Montauk

    NYTimes article: The Triumphant Decline of the WASP

    http://www.nytimes.com/2010/06/28/op...omepage&src=me A very astute article with a couple closing paragraphs of particular interest to this forum...
  17. Montauk

    Jon Stewart's wardrobe change

    As long as I can remember he's been wearing RLBL, but he just came back from a 3 week vacation last week and his suits are now officially provided by Armani. The look hasn't changed--just the label. The correspondents are now officially dressed in Banana Republic. Incredibly, this is probably...
  18. Montauk

    De-fusing a Polo RL coat? I seem to have done it.

    Being doubtful about forum assertions that older "Made in USA" mainline Polo RL jackets were not fused, I conducted the infamous "pinch test" on the coat of an older Polo gray flannel suit I'd bought on eBay last year. As I expected, it was fully fused, but after fiddling a...
  19. Montauk

    In Search of Dignity

    I know that it properly belongs in the "Entertainment and Culture" forum, but I think this excellent essay will resonate with most folk here. Clothing is nothing on a man who lacks such a code. Montauk In Search of Dignity By DAVID BROOKS Published: July 6, 2009 When George Washington was a...
  20. Montauk

    Importance of canvassing in a linen suit?

    Although I love linen suits, I've generally considered them to be semi-disposable, and haven't ever spent much on one. I'm considering, for instance, picking up what I'm sure is a fused navy blue Polo suit on the cheap. I've read elsewhere (Flusser, I think) that fusing is sometimes even...

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