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Recent content by tailorgod
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Double Breasted Style.
Well, those gaping lapels are caused by several things, mainly by the way the fronts are cut and made. In almost every image with Italian jackets in them you can see this defect, sometimes almost unnoticeable or, as in these cases very obvious (which,BTW, doesn't indicate fused fronts). By...- tailorgod
- Post #1,870
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Preparing a try-on for first fitting
Gilt Edge Suitings in the UK is a good source for high quality wool/ camelhair canvas in various weights. I have been told by tailors that those with the label "wet in cold water and dried in the sun" don't shrink at all. They are Made in Italy...- tailorgod
- Post #50
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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My First Indochino Suit - should I ask for remake?
That's what I would have suggested, too. I've done that a couple of times, a heck a lot of work. Not what a normal alteration tailor would want to do. Plus it requires a higher understanding of garment construction. And I doubt that there are enough inlays in the hem and lining to correct the...- tailorgod
- Post #100
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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My First Indochino Suit - should I ask for remake?
So, how did it turn out?- tailorgod
- Post #97
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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My First Indochino Suit - should I ask for remake?
I hope she hasn't done anything yet, since it's not the best alteration to do it in the center back seam. Reason is that she'll cut through the pinstripes, which looks awkward. I would have taken the side seams in and, in case the lining is long enough between the vents, let out the hem a bit to...- tailorgod
- Post #95
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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My First Indochino Suit - should I ask for remake?
That happens quite often when the staff doesn't consist of experienced tailors/ fitters. Not only related to Indochino. It's a company that's relatively new in the MTM business, the staff is hired locally (I guess) and probably have been instructed poorly. The trial suit should be in a...- tailorgod
- Post #74
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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My First Indochino Suit - should I ask for remake?
StormRider: Those are hand stitches, and not very neat ones. Stitches are twice as far from each other than mine. When I saw that stitching in their promotional video (at 1:30) I thought: OK, they are trying to save time and that dude isn't probably a real tailor, but apparently, that's how they...- tailorgod
- Post #70
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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My First Indochino Suit - should I ask for remake?
In any case, offering a remake or a refund is quite remarkable since it's not common practise. At least here in Germany several MTM companies and their respective staff often try every trick in the book to get the suit out of the door and money into the cash register.- tailorgod
- Post #58
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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My First Indochino Suit - should I ask for remake?
Jeffery, what kind of advice would you give first time Indochino (or MTM in general) customers should they want to order a suit by going to a travelling tailor or a local shop? As you pointed out on your blog, the training of the staff members may not be on the same level, so how will an...- tailorgod
- Post #53
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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My First Indochino Suit - should I ask for remake?
Doing the sleeve lining by hand seems quite strange for an otherwise very industrial product, especially given the Indochino price range. In the review (video) I saw the stitching was very visible due to the wide apart stitches. Perhaps StormRiders were done more neatly and less visible. If you...- tailorgod
- Post #51
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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My First Indochino Suit - should I ask for remake?
Most likely they won't. But who knows?:puzzled: Stormrider, how is the lining at the armholes sewn? Are the visible hand stitches on the edges (picture one), or is it plain and sewn to the armhole like in the second picture? The reason I ask is that I have seen a review of an...- tailorgod
- Post #48
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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My First Indochino Suit - should I ask for remake?
It's only simple when the sleeve does match the armhole in crown height and width. If that's not the case, a re-cut of the sleeve might be necessary. In any case you'd need a skilled and experienced tailor. If you want the shoulders to be taken in as well the whole operation might take up...- tailorgod
- Post #44
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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My First Indochino Suit - should I ask for remake?
Looking at the pictures JefferyD shows on his blog I'd say that their sleeves need more attention in the future. It appears that one of the (negative) hallmarks of low price RTW and MTM are poorly set in sleeves.- tailorgod
- Post #42
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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My First Indochino Suit - should I ask for remake?
The sleeve pitch is very important, because it has major effects on the fit of a garment. The folds in the back of the sleeve (as Despos pointed out correctly) means that you need a lower pitch. Decent bespoke tailors will not only mark the correct sleeve pitch during the fitting, they will also...- tailorgod
- Post #40
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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My First Indochino Suit - should I ask for remake?
The most obvious issue is the sleeve pitch, which is hard to get right. Many customers are not aware that they hold their arms a little backwards. In pattern making the reference point for a normal sleeve pitch is a point behind 1/3 to 1/2 of the front pocket opening, given that the jacket fits...- tailorgod
- Post #32
- Forum: Classic Menswear