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Recent content by ntempleman

  1. ntempleman

    Leather Quality and Properties

    I probably own more pairs of synthetic footwear than I do leather tbh, for motorcycle boots, cycling shoes, sneakers etc then I don’t want leather anywhere near those. They’re different things though, one doesn’t replace the other
  2. ntempleman

    Leather Quality and Properties

    I only use leather from vegan cows
  3. ntempleman

    Leather Quality and Properties

    Nothing unwanted about it!
  4. ntempleman

    Leather Quality and Properties

    which petrochemicals are used to hold the polyester and nylon microfibres together in a leather-like mat?
  5. ntempleman

    Leather Quality and Properties

    And another! I’m on a roll: ridonk high spi are fiddly and require a steady hand, but there’s no more skill required to do it well than there is to stitch a mere 12 well. As a shoemaker I’m much more impressed by a shoe that’s been well considered - a thoughtful maker using their experience to...
  6. ntempleman

    Leather Quality and Properties

    Footnote - it’s worth remembering that it’s not the stitches through the substance that hold the materials together, but the tension on “loops” sitting on the surfaces. 1spi would be fine as long as you could pull the threads hard enough, but humans can’t and the thread would break anyway. The...
  7. ntempleman

    Leather Quality and Properties

    14 is already a lot of stitches. Too many for most shoes tbh. Some makers will only ever need an 11 fudge wheel for most of their career. How many stitches per inch is decided as a function of how thick the sole leather is, what the shoe is used for etc. More isn’t better, it’s weaker if...
  8. ntempleman

    Shoemaking Techniques and Traditions--"...these foolish things..."

    Usually call it a bagged seam here, you could describe it as a turned in or folded under seam also. There’s no real benefit or disadvantage, it just looks a bit cheap. Like the shoes are glued together. I guess you can hide sloppy machining easily when the stitches are hidden underneath. the...
  9. ntempleman

    The Bespoke Shoes Thread

    This is perhaps the most unenlightening argument on the internet right now
  10. ntempleman

    The Bespoke Shoes Thread

    Man, I miss Tijuana
  11. ntempleman

    The Bespoke Shoes Thread

    Just curve it round like Beckham. Used to have to just slip lasts through and hope the fit was ok to get it out the door. If the fit wasn’t right and the shoes were checked over, the problem was usually because you didn’t stick to 2.5 over somehow
  12. ntempleman

    The Bespoke Shoes Thread

    Traditional Lobb teaching dictates 2.5 sizes over the measurement of the pencil outline’s length at all times, for all styles, no deviation, no arguments. Some makers knows for a particular look will just go as long as they have to in order to get the toe shape regardless of the foot shape. 5...
  13. ntempleman

    The Bespoke Shoes Thread

    I’ve never once had a question about the fit of a shoe I was looking at, where the best answer was “let’s cut it open and see inside”. Maybe it works for some, but not for me personally
  14. ntempleman

    The Bespoke Shoes Thread

    My view is that gathering information is an ongoing process, not just taking as much as you can at the beginning - you can spend 5 hours with all sorts of machines, doohickeys, formulas and whirlygigs when you measure, but when you make a fitting shoe from all that which is a mess - then what...
  15. ntempleman

    The Bespoke Shoes Thread

    I’ve never knowingly measured any sort of heel to ball distance or used any sectioniser methods or Sabbage whatnot, so I’m not in any place to advise about those things I’m afraid

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