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Recent content by manicturncoat

New posts
  1. M

    Anna Matuozzo - A walk-through of my bespoke shirt purchase in Napoli.

    Italy still has a one of the highest levels of craftsmanship in the world, this is our tradition it is part of our culture. It is a country full of tailors from the one man show charging from €600-1000(without fabric generally) to the more established tailors charging €1500-2500. In Florence...
  2. M

    Nicola Blasi - What can you tell me about this Neapolitan brand?

    Nicola is a proper Italian name. No one in Italy would mistake a someone for a "Slavic type" simply because he is named Nicola.
  3. M

    Tour of Rubinacci workshop / Cappelli atelier -- June 2011

    Even Bulgari gave me a discount in Naples without asking for it.... It is very common to ask for discount on retail prices everywhere but for the multinational. In Italy, if you want a discount, just ask the merchant what price he could give you if you paid cash.
  4. M

    Florence Shop List.

    The historic centre Florence is now becoming like Venice, the commerce caters almost exclusively to tourism. The first thing to suffer is the quality of the restaurants. Below are a few trattorias that Florentines still consider acceptable; Ruggero Fagioli La Vecchia Bettola Sostanza(Il Troia)...
  5. M

    The Rubinacci Thread.

    I've never been to an Italian wedding (not over there anyway) but I have seen lots of pics of Italians in MCs. The pics are older, stopping in the '80s or so, so I have no idea what is commonly done today. Morning dress is still common at Italian weddings, almost always the grey coat with...
  6. M

    The Rubinacci Thread.

    I like how unconventionally conventional this is... I f one is going to bother to go all formal with the hat and gloves you might as well get it right.
  7. M

    Woohoo!

    The original Cub Schaefer is the top.
  8. M

    Woohoo!

    Don't forget the driving gloves.
  9. M

    Ambrosi Napoli

    Since SSC Napoli lost to Udinese Sunday and now have no chance of winning the Scudetto Neapolitans, in general, will start thinking about work again and the pants should arrive.
  10. M

    The Rubinacci Thread.

    The jacket and pants looks fine. I find the tie/knot, puffy PK and gloves tucked into the Jacket contrived, studied and not very elegant.
  11. M

    The Rubinacci Thread.

    The sleeve on the right doesn't have pitch problems or what on SF is called divots. Pitch problems, afaik, cause diagonal folds as though the sleeve is being twisted. The cause is in fact that the sleeve was twisted, or turned in a way that doesn't match natural curve of the wearer's arm...
  12. M

    The Rubinacci Thread.

    Thank you, that was the time to unmask this " tailor" and some of his snobish followers that only like his in a faulty way to aquire status as douche buy a BMW 320ci but would refuse to buy the same car it it would exist but branded Hyundai ( actually Korean, casualty?) Kia, or a humildt named...
  13. M

    The Rubinacci Thread.

    There is zero problem with the sleeve. The gloves, come on Matt. Doesn't look like a "smooth" and "gentle" curve to me. It seems like it is sagging straight down from the sleevehead.
  14. M

    The Rubinacci Thread.

    1. Sleeve pitch/curvature.....Sleeves on a lot of other jackets (particularly RTW) tend to torque or divot near the shoulder or mid-arm (no joke). You mean like the sleeve on the right?
  15. M

    The Rubinacci Thread.

    Looks like the pitch is way off on the right sleeve.
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